Hi guys,

Planning to get my van (’77 tradesman) out of its winter parking spot this week after 4 months sitting under snow.
Since I need to make it roadworthy and want to order a few parts before taking it to my mechanic, I have a few questions:

- Started it today, no hesitation but lot of white smoke (it was still cold since I could only let it run for about 10 minutes).
Vacuum readings were good (20 and steady at idle) and compression was within range about a year ago.
I guess it’s just water from the exhaust, but could it be something else, how do I check?

- It’s still leaking oil. Last time I changed it, the pan threads didn’t look stripped but the ones on the stock plug were totally worn out.
I replaced it with a push and twist plug, but I'm still not sure it’s sealing correctly. Any way to check, and what should I do if it’s not?
Since it’s also clearly loosing oil from the timing chain cover and maybe the rear of the pan, I’ll order the Fel-Pro Timing Cover Gasket Set and Oil Pan Gasket.
Should I also take an harmonic balancer repair sleeve just in case?

- About a year after I got the van, since oil pressure was slow to rise I switched to 5W30 synthetic (don’t know what was in there at that time probably cheap 10W30 mineral).
It got better, but after a while I noticed that readings where higher than before: 40-50 psi at cold idle, and over 60 (maybe 80, not sure) when engine is hot. Does it sounds too high?

- It needs a new timing chain (8 degrees of play). Is the Cloyes double roller upgrade a good idea for an heavy van that will never go over 65 mph and sees less than 2,000 miles a year or the standard replacement is the safest bet?
Anything specific I should tell/ask to my mechanic before he does the timing gears and chain replacement?


Thanks

_________________
"Hey, I like that paint job you got. What they call that--sorta a cross between Piss Yellow and Puke Green, ain't it?" -- Bob Falfa

This is normal for sitting all winter, practically outside. A lot of condensation forms in engine and exhaust system as the weather changes between cool and cold and dry and humid, and if the day you start it up is on the humid side that will also add to the water vapor output. That old girl just needs a good long cruse to get her up to temperature which will boil out all that moisture.


I would suspect the better cleaning ability of synthetic oil is cleaning off the engine’s arterial build-up allowing better flow, which may require more frequent filter changes. If the oil becomes black and nasty looking in a thousand miles or so, this is a good thing as the detergents are doing their job cleaning things up.

If the treads in the pan’s oil drain hole are good, one can find replacement plugs in the Help section at an auto parts store that will stop that leak.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

Thanks
Will keep using 5W30 after the timing chain replacement and see how it goes then.

_________________
"Hey, I like that paint job you got. What they call that--sorta a cross between Piss Yellow and Puke Green, ain't it?" -- Bob Falfa