Jerry, As for why to powder coat, wow... a lot of advantage over paint. It's many times more durable than even the best automotive paints. It's resistant to chipping and chemicals like oil, cleaning solvents, fuel, and heat up to about 300 degrees. Perfect for valve covers, intakes, metal brackets and braces, alternators, even steel fuel lines. I also started using the high temperature coatings for things that get hot like headers. These powders are good up to 1000 with peaks up to 1200 degrees. The two things that I think are the best reasons to powder coat are that you can take any almost any factory part that will conduct electricity and withstand the baking process of around 400 degrees, and make it custom and more durable than painted parts. Even better is that when paint dries, it develops thousands of microscopic pin holes that occur during the drying process, powder coatings are basically powdered plastic that melts and flows out to make a totally sealed cover over the metal. This is why it lasts longer and is more resistant to corrosive actions. That makes it very easy to clean. Every so often I just squirt a little dish liquid on my engine and hose it off and it looks great.
Can you do it at home, absolutely, and with pretty good results! I started with a cheap gun, about $70, and an old electric toaster oven for small parts. Like any thing else that you try that works well, you soon see the potential and want to do more. That usually means spending more money! I now have a couple of non contact temperature guns ($80 each) a better gun, ($800) an inferred heating system for larger parts like car frames and wheels that I modified for faster production, ($900) parts washer for degreasing, ($200) Two sand blasting guns for different sized parts and operations, ($300) and a bead blasting booth for larger things like wheels and headers. ($600) and a bunch of metal finishing and buffing tools. Boy, I hope my wife doesn't read this! Luckily for me I work as a high end car audio fabricator at the leading shop in the Pittsburgh area, and the stuff was quickly paid for with side jobs, and work through our store.
I'm an artist, so for me, powder coating is just one more tool that I use. Sculpting, carving, molding, painting, and fiberglass are still my primary methods of fabrication.
If you decide to give it a try or have any other questions, don't hesitate to ask. As you can tell from the length of this post, I love what I do, and I love to talk about it!
Dan M.
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It will be fuel injected and turbo charged. 
I'm also going to cast the fuel rail. The design of the graphics on the outside are no problem. I'm an artist and professional fabricator. I've got quite a few wild ideas of the outside appearance and finish, but would appreciate all input on shape of the interior of the casting, angles, dimensions, and especially any special features that I could build into it. Once I'm done with the intake, I'm going to cast the exhaust manifold and maybe some additional hardware to adapt the engine for the turbo and probably a intercooler. After that, maybe a custom fiberglass hood, front grill and or possibly a fiberglass fender with some kind of crazy intake and housing for the intercooler for my 75 dart swinger. I'll also be casting some reproduction and custom emblems. "DART TURBO," "SLANT SIX TURBO," "FUEL INJECTED TURBO," not quite sure about that yet. I appreciate any input!
" (For a home foundry anyway) I'm a bit of a mad scientist myself! 
