Hello all from Plano , Texas

I have a slant six in my forklift, in the past I have always had great results
From slant 6 motors.

Have used slant 6 motors for years in many
Applications.

So recently when I had a chance to buy a forklift
With a slant 6 is was a no brainer.

Ok
So the slant 6 in the forklift was running ok
Until I replaced the intake/exhaust manifold gasket.
Now it will not start.

Has a electric fuel pump that activates once the key is turned on,
Gets good spark and will occasionally start and run with a
Lot of starter fluid.

The number 5 plug tube has a hole in it and the push rod is very loose.
It ran like this for many years and ultimately I'll look into that.
Just not sure why it will no longer start.


Any ideas or advice would be greatly appreciated.

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motors and engines are cool.

Why did you replace the gasket? I'm guessing there was a leak.
In which case maybe time to readjust the carb.

Dave

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86 Miser 170,000+
2 1/4" exhaust
Holley 1920 #55
HEI MSD BLaster 2
17.8 mpg

Yes

Several leaks at the manifold in fact there
Were several manifold bolts missing.

And now everything is nice and snug.

I have no idea how to adjust the little carb.
If I post a picture of the carb would you be able to
Advise me on adjusting it?

_________________
motors and engines are cool.

Is it an old Yale?

Did by any chance you bolt the intake and exhaust together tightly before you bolted them to the head? If so you now have a variety of vacuum leaks.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

Thats good point, I didnt think of that.

Dave

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86 Miser 170,000+
2 1/4" exhaust
Holley 1920 #55
HEI MSD BLaster 2
17.8 mpg

Actually I left everything loose and as I snugged down the intake and exhaust only then did I snug down the 3 bolts that connect them.

Yes its a 1973 Yale G83P

I'm hoping it had vacuum leaks before and now it is sealed up.

I did however get it to fire and run a couple of time by hold the throttle wide open and spraying starting fluid at the carb.

Im going back up there today to mess with it.
I ordered new plugs and a new ballast resistor just for the heck of it.[/img]

_________________
motors and engines are cool.

I have been doing a little reading and just thought I would post some of the things that I have found in regard to the Holley 1920 1bbl.

First, let's start with understanding under what conditions this is running rough. Is it running rough all the time, at idle and acceleration and at cruise, or just at idle? How about hot vs cold? Is the choke butterfly clsoing when closed and when cold? What is not working with the choke: is it not working at all or too much or ???? Please help out out with a bit more info. How did the carb run before the rebuild?

Next, do you think that all the hoses are on right and that the gasket at the base of the carb is installed right and sealing? This gasket has a certain orientation.

Have you checked the float level with the car running? This is the most important post-rebuild check to do as it effects almost everything in the carb operation. This is easy: with the car level, remove the 3 screws on the economizer valve (power valve) and lift the economizer out. Then start the car and measure from the flat machined surface (where the economizer valve screws down) down to the the fuel level in the bowl. That distance ought to be around 11/16".

BTW, only the idle circuit has a mixture screw to adjust; the cruise and hard throttle mixtures are fixed (unless you change the main jet, which should not be necessary). You should not hesitate to adjust the idle mixture screw in the side of the base of the carb. If the carb is OK and the float level is right and the installation is right, then you should find a good smooth running setting for this mixture screw. Adjust as follows:
- Warm up the engine fully
- Set the idlle speed screw up so that idle rpms are a bit high
- Adjust the idle mixtrue screew for smoothest operation.
- Reduce the idle and readjust the mixture screw for smoothness

And, if you have other issues, like bad spark plugs or wires, or the distributor timing off of where it should be, then adjusting the carb right is going to be nigh impossible. Do you think/know if everything else is good?

BTW, I just rebuilt a 1920 last weekend that had not been touched in 52 years and it runs perfectly. They are dirt simple carbs and reliable when they are right. (I had to re-build the accel plunger+diaphragm assy from old and new parts since I got the the wrong new assy but it works fine now.)


here is a helpful picture diagram of the Holley 1920 http://www.fordmuscleforums.com/attachm ... y-1920.jpg

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motors and engines are cool.

Sounds like a vacuum leak or a fuel delivery problem. I would start with the vacuum leak since you have just removed and reinstalled the manifolds. See here: http://www.slantsix.org/articles/manifo ... unting.htm

If you are sure that you installed the manifolds correctly, then you need to verify that the carburetor is set and functioning correctly. I would start by checking the choke and the float level, assuming this is a gasoline powered engine and not a propane powered engine.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

yeehaw

Daddy nailed it

installed a fuel filter and put the push rod back in place and adjusted all of the lifter, installed new spark plugs and she pops off now everytime.

Runs smooth as can be.

Thanks guys

_________________
motors and engines are cool.

Ok
So I did have some problems with the motor staying running.

The Motor would only run with full choke. or aka choke closed..

I read, read and read. Kept coming up with possible vacuum leak.

looked into the fuel flow and the little electric fuel pump was not filling the new filter, so I removed the float and jet on the little Holley 1920 and everything looked good and seemed to be in working order.

started looking more closely at the fuel flow.
Finally tried to run the fuel pump direct from a gas can and decided the little electric fuel pump had decided to retire. I replaced the electric pump with a spectra 9 P.S.I. electric pump and put a regulator on it to take it down to the 4 to 6 P.S.I. range those little 1920s like.

New fuel pump and regulator and the slant 6 now runs and revs up nicely.

I did the 10 on intake and 20 on exhaust lifter adjustment.

Today I used a laser temp gauge on the exhaust manifold after the motor had been running for about 20 mins in the 100 degree Texas Heat.

The exhaust manifold was pretty much 340 to 380 right off the head and the area where all 6 turn into one the temp was a good 400.

Anyone have any input on these temp readings on the exhaust manifold?


Ned in Plano,Texas



P.S. anyone wanna sell me one spark plug tube?
Had a push rod go A-Wall and rub a hole in one.

_________________
motors and engines are cool.