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improperly helicoiled valve cover hole in head - repairs?
https://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=56426		 Page 1 of 4
Author:  spacecommander [ Tue Oct 21, 2014 10:15 am ]
Post subject:  improperly helicoiled valve cover hole in head - repairs?
Well, it's day 3 of the 1982 Dodge W150 slant six project and already it has come to an abrupt halt. It had a MASSIVE oil leak - and I've found the source of the leak and the problem at hand. The front right valve cover attachment bolt hole in the head had been stripped out (probably due to the horrible bolt/built in spreader washer design) so the previous owner attempted a helicoil repair - that they failed at. Now I know why a sheet metal screw inserted through a 10mm socket was used as a valve cover attachment - they put the helicoil in at an angle and badly stripped it when putting it in - the helicoil has basically uncoiled - see pictures. Anybody got any ideas on how to attempt a repair of this? HELP!
Image [/img]
Author:  ProCycle [ Tue Oct 21, 2014 10:41 am ]
Post subject: 
That helicoil can be picked out and a threaded insert can be installed. Should not really be any big deal to get set right.
Author:  spacecommander [ Tue Oct 21, 2014 10:44 am ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
That helicoil can be picked out and a threaded insert can be installed. Should not really be any big deal to get set right.
Just grab the loose end and pull straight up?
Author:  ProCycle [ Tue Oct 21, 2014 11:35 am ]
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Yes, more or less. Not straight up. The wire is supposed to be 1/2 embedded in a thread groove. Do it carefully, The Helicoil wire can be a bit brittle. Work it out.
Author:  Pierre [ Tue Oct 21, 2014 1:23 pm ]
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Don't pull straight up - try to unscrew it. I would try it with an easy out. Once it's out it looks like there's enough room to drill/tap for a 5/16 bolt.
Author:  spacecommander [ Tue Oct 21, 2014 4:16 pm ]
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Got it out. Hole is ovalized mess. Made a tool to install the replacement helicoil using a screwdriver with a shaft that just fit inside the helicoil after I ground it (removed the flat blade first so I just had a shaft), then used a dremel cutoff wheel to put a slot in to drive the helicoil. got it it sorta crooked, installed the replacement bolt to about 8 foot pounds. Don't see any leaking but haven't driven the car anywhere yet - just let it idle then goosed it a bit. Engine sounds fine, but needs lots of TLC. #1 sparkplug was wiggling in hole - not even remotely tight. Carb runs pretty darn rich - starts right up with no choke, lots of black soot. Need to snug down all the other engine bolts - oil pan bolts to see if the massive amounts of oil it leaked were coming just from the valve cover leak or lots of other places - assume the latter.
Author:  spacecommander [ Wed Oct 22, 2014 12:02 pm ]
Post subject: 
Nope. new helicoil didn't hold. Not sure how much metal is available in that area - choices are to go with ridiculously oversize bolt - but then there's no gasket left if a 3/8" bolt is used, or to try coating the bolt with teflon tape, screwing it in to a helicoil, cleaning the hole with q-tips and acetone then using JB weld to try to hold the helicoil in place. Other idea is a few small "C" clamps going under block lip and down on valve cover. Looks like everybody who worked on the truck was a menace with tools. Hard to see from this angle - but the oil pressure sending unit is cross-threaded in to the pump. Also afraid it may be leaking from the rear main seal.

Image
Author:  ProCycle [ Wed Oct 22, 2014 12:07 pm ]
Post subject: 
I would put a Keensert or something similar in it.
Author:  Rick Covalt [ Wed Oct 22, 2014 1:06 pm ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
but the oil pressure sending unit is cross-threaded in to the pump.
Some of them look to be tapped crooked from the factory. I have seen a couple that look pretty funky. Try unscrewing it and see if it loosens right up or runs out hard. Good luck

Rick
Author:  Reed [ Wed Oct 22, 2014 1:21 pm ]
Post subject: 
You do know that slants were paintedblack in 82, right? I don't doubt you have oil leaks, but it might not be as bas as you think. It might just look dirtier than it actually is.
Author:  spacecommander [ Wed Oct 22, 2014 2:08 pm ]
Post subject: 
It leaked a quart of oil driving 25 miles - looks like a lot of it came from the valve cover gasket, but it looks like the rear main seal might be bad too - have to fix the valve cover first. The massively ovalized hole on the front right valve attach under the alternator is the culprit. It does look like something similar to a "c" clamp can be fabricated to press down on the cover and hold it for a few months. I will be yanking the hydraulic cam head and replacing with a ported mechanical cam head (and obviously installing a mechanical cam) so the valve cover stripped mess doesn't have to be permanent. The Keensert will require a round hole also - and the wide part of the ovalized mess measures 5/8"

I just resealed my long driveway a few months ago so hopefully it won't be the rear or front main seals - I don't want to yank the engine.

The oil light worked when I hooked it up to the oil sender, the coolant sensor does not work - the light stays on when hooked up. Not sure why they cut both off. It's a rat's nest of wires, looking forward to installing the new HEI ignition so some of them get eliminated.
Author:  75customdart [ Wed Oct 22, 2014 2:22 pm ]
Post subject: 
Fill hole with jb weld.Drill hole deeper into steel to factory size. Tap to size. use longer bolt with tread sealer.
Author:  Pierre [ Wed Oct 22, 2014 2:27 pm ]
Post subject: 
Or remove as much of the insert you can, clean the hole out well (brake cleaner, blow dry) then jbweld a stud in. Clean any plating off the stud threads going in the head with sandpaper or sandblast to give the jbweld more bite.
Author:  sandy in BC [ Wed Oct 22, 2014 3:11 pm ]
Post subject: 
Thats the one!
Author:  spacecommander [ Wed Oct 22, 2014 3:28 pm ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
Or remove as much of the insert you can, clean the hole out well (brake cleaner, blow dry) then jbweld a stud in. Clean any plating off the stud threads going in the head with sandpaper or sandblast to give the jbweld more bite.
Ah-HA! I have a carbide burr on the end of a dremel -I will make the oval mess wider at the bottom so the stud and JB weld won't pull out easily.

The insert's gone - I've got a 17/64 x 5/16 oval mess. that was obviously once epoxied with something black before. Looks like I've got quite a project to get this to stick in.

Actually - I won't use a stud - I'll use a fully threaded bolt with the head ground down and thinned so it fits in the hole upside-down. That way there's a tiny "nail head" on the bottom. Think that's better? Or am I outfoxing myself and should just use a stud? ;-)
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