If you have rods where the rod bearings did not spin in the rod big ends, I see no need the get the rods reconditioned. I've built plenty of race and stock engines with the rods just inspected and the ends checked.
If there are no signs of the bearing spinning, just have the big end size and roundness checked if you want maximum comfort; it is not all that hard to measure accurately in your shop. Done it here a dozen times; just torque up the rod bolts properly and measure the ID with accurate tools.
Inspect the rod big end: Any machining lines in the machined surfaces inside the big ends will be cross hatched if nothing has spun/turned, and there should be no heat markings on the rods ends. A spun rod bearing in a rod big end will be obvious in the form of lines parallel to the big end sides; any sign of this, even very short lines like this, indicate the bearing shells have moved and the need for the end to be resized.
And agreed, I would turn either crank if you can feel the ridges like it sounds. I do tend to like to keep the crank with more meat in it, but other items are important, like the width across the journals (for proper rod side clearance) and no damage to the journal sides.
|
I don't have the tools to magnaflux at home, and I don't have the time or funds right now to take it to a shop. This is really a back burner project. When the time comes to assemble this mess, I will get the crank checked out by a machinist and have him/her check for cracks and wear. I am just trying to assemble the best selection of used parts I can in hopes that they will all be useable. I'm not building a race car or anything.