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| Rebuilding the Single BBL Holly https://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=57898 |
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| Author: | gdizzle [ Mon Jun 15, 2015 10:09 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Rebuilding the Single BBL Holly |
Is there a step by step rebuild kit and instructions for this Carbuerator? I am having issue with a stutter when I accelerate. Accelerator Pump?. Holly 1920, R3274A (or R3282A) This thing is old. I would bet it needs some TLC. 225ci, dart, 3.7 slanted 6. 1966. hit me with some links |
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Tue Jun 16, 2015 9:46 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Carburetor operation and repair manuals and links to training movies and carb repair/modification threads are posted here for free download. Hesitation on acceleration can be caused by factors other than the carb, too. Make sure the distributor vacuum advance is in good shape and working correctly (and its hose is in good shape and connected correctly), the base ignition timing is set correctly, and the mechanical advance is working. Tune-up parts and technique suggestions are in this thread. |
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| Author: | gdizzle [ Tue Jun 16, 2015 11:09 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Good ideas. The current setup appears to be the metal line running up, then as it gets close to the filter, it has a rubberline, then filter, then rubberline going to the carb. the filter is the see thru plastic. There is one odd thing, when I remove the air filter and housing, I see a long metal rod that appears to be attached to the engine. This rod is not connected to the carb, though it should. I attempt to hook it into the carb, I think it holds the choke plate? It doesnt stay for long. Is this something that gets adjusted? how? I can probably use some pliers to bend the rod a little so it stays connected. Unless there is another part missing? Not sure if it is effecting the operation of the engine. But I would assume that when it is not connected, then there is very little air getting mixed. Also the prior owner was running this thing without an air filter. |
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| Author: | Reed [ Tue Jun 16, 2015 11:13 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Quote: Good ideas. The current setup appears to be the metal line running up, then as it gets close to the filter, it has a rubberline, then filter, then rubberline going to the carb. the filter is the see thru plastic.
There is one odd thing, when I remove the air filter and housing, I see a long metal rod that appears to be attached to the engine. This rod is not connected to the carb, though it should. I attempt to hook it into the carb, I think it holds the choke plate? It doesnt stay for long. Is this something that gets adjusted? how? I can probably use some pliers to bend the rod a little so it stays connected. Unless there is another part missing? Not sure if it is effecting the operation of the engine. But I would assume that when it is not connected, then there is very little air getting mixed. Also the prior owner was running this thing without an air filter. DO NOT BEND THAT ROD. That rod is the choke thermostat and yes, it attaches to the choke butterfly valve. There is supposed to be a clip that clips the rod to the eyelet on the choke linkage. It sounds like that clip is missing. It is effecting the operation of the engine because if it isn't connect the choke and fast idle functions of the carburetor will not work. also, always run the engine with an air cleaner of some sort. |
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Tue Jun 16, 2015 11:56 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Quote: Good ideas. The current setup appears to be the metal line running up, then as it gets close to the filter, it has a rubberline, then filter, then rubberline going to the carb. the filter is the see thru plastic.
That's the fuel line, not the distributor vacuum advance line. Ditch the plastic fuel filter and do the Fuel line mod.Quote: There is one odd thing, when I remove the air filter and housing, I see a long metal rod that appears to be attached to the engine. This rod is not connected to the carb, though it should. I attempt to hook it into the carb, I think it holds the choke plate? It doesnt stay for long.
Requires the correct retainer clip.Quote: Is this something that gets adjusted?
It can be, by removing the choke stove at the bottom of the rod (it's bolted to the exhaust manifold) but unless you know exactly what you're doing and why, it shouldn't be. Do NOT bend the rod.You'll want to get the three books described in this thread as quickly as possible. |
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| Author: | gdizzle [ Tue Jun 16, 2015 12:22 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Yes, I have the books except the Peterson. on order. Any idea where I can find the retainer clip? Or how to search for it? thanks |
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| Author: | cpslntdchrg [ Wed Jun 17, 2015 7:57 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I did not know were to find one. What I did was taking my dremel drill with the cutting disk, and drilling two very shallow notches near the tip of the choke lever, so I can slide and use one of the carb float retainers as the choke lever retainer. Have had no problem so far. However, I would better have a retainer clip, if anybody knows were to find them. |
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| Author: | relic-lover [ Wed Jun 17, 2015 8:25 pm ] |
| Post subject: | choke rod clip |
I noticed this clip assortment on the Oreilly site. Dorman Help! - Linkage Clip Assortment Part # 41017 They look to be the same as what I remember on my 68 dart. |
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| Author: | bboogieart [ Mon Jun 22, 2015 12:12 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Have you found a clip yet? I have several. Just pay the post-man. |
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| Author: | gdizzle [ Tue Jun 23, 2015 7:11 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
i picked up the Dorman pack, still need to open and see if any of them will fit. Will let you know |
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