You should have went with the chinese Rally SB BBD HT carb just to annoy SlantSixDan
Haha!
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| Carb difference https://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=58560 |
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| Author: | Hapster [ Mon Oct 19, 2015 10:27 am ] |
| Post subject: | Carb difference |
I am looking to replace my carb (fitting broke threads on body) Found several replacements but they have some kind of vacuum device on it. can these be used by ignoring the manifold choke? I did find one that looked exactly like mine but they say it is for a manual trans model number for my carb is a BBS-3230S Any help will be appreciated I was thinking of using JB weld to repair the threads. Wasn't sure if it would be a waste of time and money |
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Mon Oct 19, 2015 12:10 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Carb difference |
Pre-1964 carbs have a piston-type choke pull off. Starting in '64, an external vacuum pot was used for this function. They both use the same choke thermostat mounted on the exhaust manifold; with the dirty, high-gum gasoline of the 1960s the external pot-type pull-off was less susceptible to sticking than the piston type. Info here (starting at bottom of left column). There were other improvements in the BBS starting in '64, too, and the '64-up BBS carbs generally work better (assuming they're in basically sound condition). I'm assuming the fitting that stripped out is the fuel inlet fitting. I would not rely on JB Weld for a safe repair here. At the same time, it's grown very difficult to get hold of a good carburetor for the pre-'67 cars with the rotating-rod throttle linkage like yours. "Remanufactured" carburetors are just about always junk, but new ones and good old-stock bench rebuilds are very scarce any more -- good luck with your search. The minor calibration differences for manual vs. auto trans do not matter at this stage of the game. The carb you buy will probably have a PCV fitting at its base, which your 3230 does not have. Take the opportunity to make the large upgrade to PCV; your engine and oil will stay a lot cleaner, and it'll be much easier to remove the valve cover to do the periodic valve adjustment. Presently you have a road draft tube (metal pipe) attached to the rear chimney on the valve cover and bolted to a support point lower down on the engine. Remove this draft tube assembly. Either install a '61-'65 PCV cup, spring, and valve (place a parts-wanted ad on this board) or install a '66-up valve cover which has a rubber grommet instead of the rear chimney and the valve pops directly into the grommet. Connect the valve to the PCV fitting on the carb. |
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| Author: | Hapster [ Fri Oct 23, 2015 10:12 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Got the carb, they sent the same model I had except for the port for the PCV valve. Bolted up perfect. Was disappointing to find the lever for the accel pump not quite the same size as the old one. Easily fixed by swapping with the old one. It has a one year warranty. maybe I am lucky on this one. |
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| Author: | Jsp [ Fri Oct 23, 2015 12:46 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
You should have went with the chinese Rally SB BBD HT carb just to annoy SlantSixDan Haha!
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