I'm guessing you'd need the Ford style shock plate when using the 8 inch rear in an a body? Or does it matter?

8" or 8.8?
With the 8.8 you'll need some persuasion and some larger u bolts. However I just installed an 8.8 in a GTX for a customer and used Mancini's Shock Plates and u bolts for an 8.75". Worked great.

You need shock plates that will mount the A body shocks.

I used A body plates to mount an 8.8. Some modifications were required. New ubolts are always a good idea.

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

I have used 8.75"/8.25" Mopar plates and Ubolts on mine (3" axle tubes). The tubes are usually 2.75" on the 8" axle, so you need some 1/8" strip steel spacers to make the bolts fit properly.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

It is the 8" rear. Thanks everyone. Lou, could you get a picture of that setup?

I am hopeless with pictures and I don't have a "smart" phone. I do writing and visual production as a big part of my job and so can't bear to do it as part of my hobby. Come to my house or a race and I am happy to show you...

Best,
Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Understand that. Thanks Lou, I can probably figure it out.

Whats your opinion on the 8.8??

I used a narrowed Explorer 8.8 in my 65 Valaint with great success. The width is perfect and the rear discs are a nice match for factory A body discs.

I used the same rear in my 51 DeSoto and find the rear discs are a little small for use with the larger late B body discs.

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

Sandy,
what ratio did you end up with in your '65?

Thanks.

Neil

3.55

It was installed with an OD 5 speed and 235/60/14 tires

In my DeSoto the ratio is also 3.55 with an OD automatic ...with 265/75/15 tires

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

Awesome swap. Reliable(key word there) factory disc breaks, rebuildable LSD, No narrowing needed for most applications with rim back spacing, 5x4.5 Lug spacing. Good unit can be had for 350.00 at your local yard, about 800.00 in parts for a full rebuild. Good luck building a 8.75 for cheaper.

I would add: easy Ebrake solutions
easy/cheap/available parts.
Many ratio choices
light weight

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

Lou, What did you choose to run for a u joint? Also, did the driveshaft have to be shortened?

I used a conversion joint from Mopar 7260 to early 90s Mustang 5.0, then you have to rob the 1.125" (IIRC) caps from a stock 70s Maverick joint for the Mustang side of the joint. Denny's or someone could sell you a direct adapter too, but might be just as much as your local parts store buying the 2 I mentioned. I have done 2 8" swaps (from a 7.25" mopar) and did not need dshaft length change. Others have found the same.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988