The 67 170 3 spd manual is dead. Today, I picked up a 69 D100 donor 225, 2brl, 3 spd manual donor engine.

1) Will there be any issue with bolting the 67 manual trans to the 69 225? I know about the counterbore issue...but that affect auto trans swaps only, right?

2) Any differences between the truck (225) engine and a passenger car 225?

3) Truck is a 2 brl, how does it compare to later car 2 brl?

4) should I bother to find a dual exhaust?????

thaks

It is my understanding that the car and truck engines are essentially the same. Oil pans can be different between the different chassis applications.
A bigger exhaust couldn't hurt but duals might be a bit overkill (not that that's a bad thing).

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-MattMan
LEANED & MEAN

(1) I do not believe the crank pocket diameter change affects manual transmisison applications.

(2) there is a small chance the motor from the truck is one of the heavy duty industrial application slants (the "yellow motor") tht had a factory shot peened crank, double roller timing chain, and a few other intenral goodies, but it doesn't mater if it doesn't/ In nearly all respects it will be identical to the passeger car engine. you will need to swap oil pans and oil pump pickup and use the pan and pickup that match the chassis.

(3) It most likely is a later car 2bbl setup swapped onto the truck motor. There were export and marine two barrels made in the 60s, but I highly doubt your truck motor has one of those manifolds.

(4) Sure. It never hurts and it will prevent warping and cracking of the exhaust manifold later. Run 2 inch pipes into a single 2 1/4 line (back to 2 inch after the muffler), or run dual 2 inch pipes all the way back.

One minor difference you may encounter is the dipstick hole. Passenger cars have the dipstick tube insert into a hole in the block directly above the oil pan tucked down behind the exhaust manifold enter "tower". On trucks and vans the oil dipstick fits into a fitting on the oil pan. On later trucks and vans (late 70s-1987) the hole in the block is plugged with a little plug on trucks and vans. HOWEVER! I recently purchased a 1976 D100 truck that is an original slant six truck and there is no hole in the block for a dipstick tube. The block is smooth and undrilled where the hole for the dipstick is on a passenger car. If this block were to be used in a passenger car the hole would have ot be drilled. You may want to verify the donor motor has the dipstick tube hole where you need it because you can't use a truck pan in an A body.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

If I were doing a down and dirty swap on this vehicle like this here are the things you need to succeed, assume your donor is in reasonable shape.

1) You will need to swap over the oil pan and pickup tube (and clean out both before the swap to get the coffee grounds out.

2) You will need a 1968-1987 flywheel with the larger hole for the crank register, on the 1975-1987 cars and trucks you need to make sure it's for a high mount starter 3spd or A-833 OD, not the low mount starter bell and 11"clutch...or pull the flywheel and have the center hole honed to the proper size.

3) Check and possibly replace the Timing chain on the donor motor (if good, you might as well take a moment and check the cam/degree it if you have time).

4) Replace the T-stat.

Domestic trucks in the 60's shouldn't have 2 barrels, if it's a later engine from a late 70's truck, the super six setup should reasonably be the same...if it's got EI and the 3874876 distributor, I'd do the EI conversion after swaping engines and getting it running on points to start with.

Truck Engine and car engines aren't too different, some of the early 60's trucks and industrial engines have been seen with shot penned cranks, but I have had a couple of early 60's engines from trucks and torn them down and had no shot peened anything...

Since you have to cut the riser exhaust pipe anyway (for those who are lurking, the 170 needs an extension at the exhaust riser compared to the 198/225, so the exhaust pipe needs a bit more pipe added there to get it to hook up correctly). If you have a few $$ and a student who does a good job and likes to weld...I would go with the 2 1/4" exhaust pipe, new muffler and 2" after that out to the bumper... EI, the 2 barrel, and that pipe should give you a boost in power.

If you had a bit more time on your hands, I would pull the head and clean up the ports, and do a little bowl work just to get a little more out of it with the other mods noted above.

2-cents

Dipstick is in the usual place. Anyone with an email? I send picts

I would go ahead and change all the gaskets while it's out, since it's infinitely easier on an engine stand compared to in a vehicle. That includes the front and rear crankshaft seals.

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If it was easy, everybody would be doing it.

it will certainly be on the engine stand for the rest of the year. The Auto 1's will get a chance to "prep" it for the 67 build, which will start in Sept. 16.

All the gaskets will get changed along with the timing set, oil pan and main seals. As we get "into it"....we'll get "into it" and decided! lol.

The big question (1 vote yes, 1 vote no). Will the 67 Dart flywheel bolt up to the 69 crank (if indeed the engine is the original 69 D100 donor).

Another unknown: how did the 2 brl, get on the manifold??? is it originally the trucks or a swapped out later 225.

No

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

Well as far as I know both the sl6 and 273 got the big crank flange in 1968. I would think your 1969/engine would for sure hbe the week ng flange. But very simple to put your flywheel on by just having it pilot hole machined out larger the bolts holdi g it on are the same

agreed. easy fix as long as the bolt circle is the same.

now to find dual exhaust manifolds!........

Im with Charlie,,,,,,no

and the bolt circle changed. You would need a new flywheel....or do some machining

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

Alright now....
...you are saying the center register diameter changed AND the bolt circle is different too??????????????????

Say it aint so!

Also: what is the deal with high starter and low starter slant sixes???? This is the first I've heard of this trip up now......

The bolt circle is the same for sure

Most were high starter old truck were low starter and old trucks with automatic trans have an adaptor plated that bolts them to a 727 with smalblock bolt pater and a space r on the crankshaft that changes the old small diameter pilot over to the big one that's how I know bolt pattern is the same since they use long bolts that go through the flex plate and spacer right into the crankshaft. I save those set ups to use the newer overdrive transmissions from a 318 or 360 with the slant six

My #2 stands...

Need 1968-1987 flywheel, *OR* get your Pre-68 flywheel center honed out...

Slant Crank bolt pattern for the flex plate and fly wheel are the same. (The confusion here looks to be adding unwanted extra info that comes down to: V-8 flywheel needs one hole wallowed out, and an adaptor, and a bunch of other crap, not in your budget...nor necessary here...)

What changed is the crank register and pocket which is a little wider in 1968...so the center hole in the 1967-back flywheel needs to have the center hole honed out... (for 1967-down crank users who have late flywheels, they can have an annular spacer machined up to keep it centered...failing to do so can cause some interesting problems...)