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Pertronix Ignitor I
https://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=60207		 Page 1 of 1
Author:  FVP [ Wed Sep 21, 2016 6:09 pm ]
Post subject:  Pertronix Ignitor I
I've installed Pertronix on other cars without issues. On my Dart, it's got issues.

First of, first Dodge I own. The car had 38,000 original miles when I got it, now it has 158,000 miles. It's my daily driver. It ran great, hills were no problem. would run 80 mph on a 2 mile long hill and 10 mile hill known as the Grapevine on 5 fwy.
Now it putters up the hill at 30 mph.

I rebuilt carburetor (which isn't original 1920) ran great. I started having problems, swapped distributor which helped enough to drive but not up a hill. adjusted valves that helped.

So wanting to treat her nice I installed Pertronix. Got to say my baby don't like Pertronix. I noticed that timing went off. I've read forums including this one for 2 months. learned a lot. past couple of days I've cleaned wires and made sure there was good Ground. Yep I took rust off ground wires since Pertronix says it there is bad ground it wont run right.

Installed E3 spark plugs (recommendation from counter guy). Worse thing ever. went back to Autolite 66. I was using the stock coil because I've done so in the past on 66 Corvette 65 Mustang 65 Falcon 59 Ranchero. Bypassed the engine ballast resistor. I finally gave in and installed the Flamethrower Coil. I don't see different because before engine. fine tuned it, engine lobe went smoother. Flamethrower didn't make any difference.

Engine doesn't like TDC anymore. I had to leave it at 10 degrees before TDC. yeah the engine has some of its original power before I changed distributor. I had to have my brother look at it, he's a shop foreman at Lexus. My brother and mechanics were stumped. Incase someone says "they're lexus mechanics" they know they're stuff and muscle cars owners.

Been playing with timing and I just may leave it be. Sometimes I have to pretend It's a manual transmission with "3 on the Tree" to get a response because I feel vacuum it not kicking in when I punch the gas pedal. Sometimes I can push it and it kicks in.

I noticed a exhaust leak coming from underneath where the intake and exhaust manifolds meet and Not where they bolt on to the block.

Going to do a quit mickey mouse repair to stop leak and see if it helps with problem using exhaust leak putty. You may not like the sound of that but if that leak isn't the problem then I'll just be breathing exhaust fumes. not a smoker I'll choose my poison.

If there's suggestions to the Pertonix it would be nice and sorry I've never posted anything Failed essays at school. I sound like I'm ranting LOL (I can hear my English teacher and she's shaking her head) Love you too Mrs. Greenly I should've paid more attention.
Author:  emsvitil [ Wed Sep 21, 2016 7:02 pm ]
Post subject: 
Here's what I know:

Installing the pertronix will change the timing, you just need to adjust.


You can either run with 1.5 ohm coil and ballast resistor

or

use 3.0 ohm coil and NO ballast resistor.

the unit seems to work better when it gets full a 12 volts on it's power lead (no ballast)


Did you mess up the plug firing order?
Author:  SlantSixDan [ Wed Sep 21, 2016 7:10 pm ]
Post subject: 
Rather than Pertronix, try the HEI upgrade.

Good move throwing away the scammy E3 spark plugs. Autolites used to be good years ago, now they're Chinese junk. Get NGK ZFR5N (№ 3459), and don't forget to remove the metal ring washers before installing them.
Author:  FVP [ Thu Sep 22, 2016 9:10 am ]
Post subject:  Pertronix Ignitor I
Thank You Gentlemen for your replies.
EMSVITIL:
firing order is dead on. even though I did moved wire position on distributor (lazy way) since I wasn't ready to check if gear was a tooth off.
Eventually I did put things in order and moved distributor gear. besides who can forget Firing order if one follows The Golden Rule 15 too young 36 too old 24 just right. Yep, Neanderthal, Curt LOL

SLANTSIXDAN: Dan My Man... Thank You for the HEI link. wish I'd have found it before. Seen you're solutions on other topics and Man this one blew me away. After all else fails and get some money I may just go that route. I was happy with points, just wanted to upgrade.

wish I could post pictures but found out spammers messed that up.

on one of your posts you recommended a Carburetor place in Burbank Ca.
I'll be buying a electronic choke for my 1920 Holley and a see thru bowl.
bringing me to those glass carburetor filters. I like the look of it, and easy way to see that I'm getting gasoline to the carburetor. You mentioned the other type of filter because someone had posted their carburetor was percolating. yep, my carbs guilty of that and I'm putting your recommendation to good use. I still want my glass filter and bowl.

but first, I'll be changing my light switch assembly. turned lights on except whole thing came off.

Your quote, took me a while to "Get It" how about stealing 3rd base LOL
Author:  SlantSixDan [ Thu Sep 22, 2016 9:28 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Pertronix Ignitor I
Quote:
I'll be buying a electronic choke for my 1920 Holley and a see thru bowl
See-thru bowl is fun and novel, but unsafe (glass breaks) and means you can't use the float bowl baffle, which aggravates the tendency of the 1920 to cause engine stalling when you take a hard/fast left turn. Keep using the metal bowl.
Quote:
bringing me to those glass carburetor filters
Ditto above. Don't use.
Quote:
percolating. yep, my carbs guilty of that
Thick insulator gasket between carb and intake manifold, working heat riser valve (not stuck in the "heat on" position) and the Fuel line mod.
Author:  FVP [ Thu Oct 27, 2016 11:05 am ]
Post subject: 
Update: Dan, my carburetor doesn't have a float bowl baffle, found one yesterday at junk yard. followed your fuel line modification.

i'm still being rebellious by using a glass fuel filter, looks cool plus never had one break on me (yet). the after market glass bowl is made of plexiglass. the $120 tag has me thinking about it. used that money towards fixing my rough idling problem which I Finally found the problem, went with the NGK's you sugested and it did'nt help.

Problem was #2 and #6 valves were to tight. I did adjusted while running and used a feeler gauge, but no cigar. I always check cylinders by removing wires from spark plugs, if idling changes i know it's working. It got depressed over the weekend cause I did everything possible. read alot of forums.

I even found an old article not in this forum where you said do it while running, someone thought you had an attitude, I didn't think you had attitude. Some people get their panties in a bunch.

Anyway rough idling gone now that I loosened the valves. curious that if I used the feeler gauge, the cylinder goes dead again. just for the hell of it I want to try and adjust valves with engine off. quick question, can i install a head from a 170 or 190 on my 225? yesterday I ran into a '66 Valiant.

before I forget, gonna get the distributor off that Valiant if Pertronix ever fails on me. will be in truck with points and ready to go.

I've been running the engine with valves making noise, overheating, used and abused for long period of time. more than 10,000 miles like that and She keeps running. everyone say's they were build to last, i guess so.

Found New respect for this 'Ol Girl...

8yr old daughter loves it when we get the car gets compliments

FVP
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