Yeah, very cool and inspiring work, Greg!

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Yes we had to drop that whole tube down lower to get the Webers on my car. That stuff looks great Greg!

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

You run the shorty's as well?

My dad had (has) the Webers and Cliffords on his old '64 It was all situated pre 1972, but I never looked at how the routing for the headers worked with his setup. He has long tubes on a narrow body "A" so those might interfere less than the shorties do. There was an extra Set of long tubes for a narrow "A" that he gave me when I first built the '69 Swinger - They fit horrible on my car and hung below the suspension - I finished them off by reversing through the car wash and thoroughly smashing and twisting the whole mess.


I believe the Shorty Design for Clifford / Slant 6 was Released late 1990's or early 2000's - By that time, I am sure that they were not casting Weber manifolds any longer.

Greg

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There were different versions of the shorty headers and I think the earlier ones fit the weber manifold. I may have both here. Yes, bending the tube down is one way people have dealt with it. I have a set that fits that I believe are unmodified or maybe slightly dinged. We can take a look when you are down here in April and mock up my webers with the headers (if not on a car, and I think not).

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Mine were the long tubes also. They interfered even worse than yours. Robbie cut the two rear tubes off completely and we fabbed up new tubes out of mandrel bends that we routed lower and out of the way.

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

2/16/25:

Some Progress this weekend:

I got the engine moved out of the build room and into the car:




Everything needs wired, filled with fluids, etc, then I will turn it over a bunch with no spark plugs to establish oil pressure, then I will put the plugs in and the fuel to the carb and try to fire it off.


In other news, I made some cuts to the #6 tube on my extra set of new headers: I plan on Ordering some 14 gauge mandrel bends for fabbing things back up with clearance for the Weber style manifolds.



I also made quite a bit of progress on my valve cover; got everything welded, now just a lot of grinding and metal finishing to do. I was working on some of that today, then the power went out at the shop, and had afternoon plans with the family so it was a good time to call it quits.

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2/19/25:

I got a few spare hours to hit the shop and get some things done the other day before the arctic blast rolled in!

Pressure plate and clutch is installed with new through the Flywheel fasteners (thanks Lou!) - no Fear Of thread pullout now on the aluminum.



I went to the hardware store last light and bought locking 5/16"-18 Grade 8 Flange nuts for the other side. - They now need installed:


I did get the bell housing installed as well.
I hope to get back to the shop again this weekend for some transmission Install, oil pump priming, etc.

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Here is a little Video I put together documenting Last week's progress.

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2/23/25:

The engine is essentially ready to fire. it's filled with oil, water and everything in the engine bay is all connected and tightened down. I also craned the engine over a bit with the spark plugs removed. I had a steady 45# of Oil Pressure on the stater motor only. Pressure adjustments may be needed, but that should be somewhat easy. I got all the manifolds, headers carb, and Radiator installed as well. It takes quite a bit of time to install the exhaust properly, especially without nicking and scratching everything up too badly.

Yesterday I spent quite a bit of time checking for the clearance on my through the flywheel nuts and bolts.

I bought a few "squashed end" 5/16"-18 Locking Flange nuts.


After I installed the nuts, I did find some interference, but only with the bell housing dust cover. I made some cuts to form a window, and after lots of checking, rechecking, and re-rechecking and lots of extra grinding and smoothing with the rotary file and the roloc sanding discs, It was ready for some welding.


I decided to box in most of the window that I created.






Last Check before the "paint booth" - It cranks with no interference.




Ready to fire, (ignore the blue Valve cover, It was a clean spare from my '69 Dart.) Just need to slap the shifter on and bolt the seat in to fire.

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2/27/25:

After adding the shifter handle and reinstalling the carpet, gas pedal, and drivers' seat back into the car, I was able to fire up the engine last night. It started up in 2 or 3 seconds thanks to the electric pusher fuel pump. It was un-eventful and fired right off which is good.

I was able to warm it up twice and throw a quick hot lash on the valves. It went with 0.020" and 0.026" as I could not remember where my "happy lash" setting was from 2-3 years ago.
I uncovered it in my notes this morning as 0.024" / 0.028" So I am close.
I still need to take care of some little fiddly bits, double check the timing, as well as likely a clutch rod adjustment and when it stops raining and potholing 'round these parts, I will be ready for a drive.

Know your lash, 'bro!

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Looks excellent, Greg. Congrats! I believe I have the 62 Valiant ready for mountain corner carving, so...

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Thanks!

Booyah!

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Good stuff Greg! I have some piddly stuff I might get to on the Valiant now that it's warming up here.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

You should be back to super D status in no time!

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2/28/25:

I took the car for an unexpected maiden voyage yesterday.

Back in November, I took the Hood and Front Valence to a local body man and longtime MoPar fan, Ray at AVS near my house.
I need a van or other large vehicle to move the hood for this car as it is a super flyweight part at ~10#. nearly 40# lighter than a stock hood! I do not trust it being precariously perched in the back of a pickup, so I like to move it in my van. Well, when I got the hood back from being painted in November, I found it had a bug in the paint. at that point my van was in storage and difficult to retrieve.. so I waited until yesterday.. as The roads were fairly de-salted and surprisingly dry.

I bolted the hood on the car and drove it to the body shop, then we removed the hood at the body shop for a respray and de bugging. Since it is satin, we could not polish it out like a base / clear job possibly.

Everything seemed fine, and I did not even adjust the clutch yet - I might futz with a few turns soon.

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