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Second 904 question.
https://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=60902
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Author:  Old6rodder [ Fri Mar 17, 2017 5:23 pm ]
Post subject:  Second 904 question.

I need to tuck the small (1.550" diam.) nose "cone" (for want of a better word) on an early 904's torque converter into an existing 1.375" hole. This'd require an .089" cut.

So, is this piece solid enough to turn down to 1.372" diam.?
If not solid, what is the factory wall thickness?

Author:  Killer6 [ Sat Mar 18, 2017 9:17 pm ]
Post subject: 

How about splitting the cut between crank register & converter hub? Cut
.045" from each, might get You there.

Author:  Killer6 [ Sat Mar 18, 2017 9:27 pm ]
Post subject: 

Also, there was a "baby" 904 for the Mitsu' imported RWD's, but i'm not
sure the dimensions. Get on transtars' website & look it up, may be able
to get a custom hybrid unit made if there's any chance of compatibility.
Members here & on FABO have had early/late hybrids made DAVCON I
believe, so............good luck!!

Author:  Old6rodder [ Sat Mar 18, 2017 9:51 pm ]
Post subject: 

I have a few 904s on hand, no point having to cobble something I'd have to buy. If my measuring turns out to require modding the existing driveshaft anyway I may choose a push button one to pop in, and just go with the ball & trunion, as I have those parts. A push button'd be rather cool as well.

I'd given cutting the crank some thought, but the crank I'm fitting it into has little meat to spare, so it wants to come off the converter snout. Besides, my lathe won't handle a crank.

Guess I'll just have to run a drill into it to see what I'm dealing with. Easy enough to weld up the small hole afterward.

Author:  Old6rodder [ Sat Apr 01, 2017 1:29 pm ]
Post subject: 

OK, test drilled one. Decidedly not solid, roughly 1/8" wall. So, I'd need to hog out the pocket in the receiving crank butt a bit. Welded the hole up, and filed'er smooth again, no point in wasting a converter. :lol:

As I need to cobble up a crank flange adapter for the flex plate anyway, I've decided to avoid poking the end of the crank by making this just thick enough to accept the snout, thus keeping it out of the original crank pocket. It'll only add half an inch to the overall length of the assembled train, and I can live with that.

Next aspect of the project'll be a 1 1/2" thick bell adapter plate. Presently giving thought to four layers of 3/8" plate (that I have handy). This might make it easier to match screw & guide holes as needed, and could be welded into a unit as a separate operation.

Also considering making the bell plate a full circle design, with a forward located access hatch for the converter screws, possibly obviating the need for the bracing strut the factory used.

I'm having fun with this one. 8)

Author:  Rob Simmons [ Sun Apr 02, 2017 10:26 am ]
Post subject: 

What project is this for?

The Brick II and El Toad are both stick shift, so is this for a float?

We want pics! :D

Author:  Old6rodder [ Wed Jan 10, 2018 10:19 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Second 904 question.

Back in the "general population" once again. :lol:

This one's for "Cassandra", my not completely finished lakes style street bucket that originally had a slant, was traded off, and came back to me a while back.
She's getting a rather different mill this time around, but I'm keepin'er under wraps 'til she's back on the street.

Sorry, Kiddies, no pics 'til then. :wink:

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