Love the forum but finding it hard to get basic information (in general) about engine specifics on the web. Everything speaks as if I already have some background - which I don't.

I'm working on a 66' industrial slant six from my Clark Cortez motorhome. I'm returning the carb and intake manifold to stock so I can get it certified (plan on addressing a 2 bbl next year as well as other updates etc.). The problem is I don't quite know what needs connecting to what for vacuum tubes etc. I thought the swap would be straightforward but looking for answers to some questions - the photos attached indicate where I'm stumped! Please help!!!

Welcome on the board!

In your first pic, the two that you're asking about should be connected to each other, but there also needs to be a PCV valve in that line. Choosing one will be a bit of a trick, because the standard car/truck item isn't physically configured for this unusual Slant-6 engine. Try a Standard Motor Products № V-111. Make sure to install it so that it flows from valve cover to intake manifold.

Also evident in that first picture is the open-stove style exhaust manifold. That's a '70-'72 item someone installed. The original exhaust manifold would have had a heat tube sleeve in the second-from-the-front runner, used to provide hot air for the choke on the Carter YH carburetor. This '70-'72 exhaust manifold doesn't have that, and that oval "black hole" facing the camera has to be blocked off or you'll have a massive exhaust leak. You could make a combination choke tube/blockoff plate that covers the hole, but it would be tricky. Probably best just to make a plain blockoff plate (gasket will be a nuisance to come up with; you'll probably have to cut/make your own from gasket material), and contact CarbsOnly for an electric choke kit, removing the need for a hot air tube. The one you need isn't discussed at that link; you'll have to call them up and tell them you need an electric choke kit for a Carter YH; be prepared to give them the carburetor number.

In your second pic: Do not remove that screw. Distributor connection is correct. Choke connections, discuss with CarbsOnly when you're ordering the electric choke kit.

Other than that: see valve adjustment procedure, and Tune-up parts and technique suggestions in this thread.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Thanks Dan!
So happy you replied as you clearly know your stuff. I have already ordered a cap for the choke bowl so that problem will be fixed. Thanks for the info on the PCV valve - I'll order one today and try it out.

As for the choke, if I don't go the electronic route how would I heat the current set up? There is a coupler at the exhaust flange which has a "U" shaped tube running through it, but the connections (if there ever were any) on the exterior of the piece seem broken. I thought there must be some sort of circuit running through it but not 100%.

Thanks again for the suggestions and links - I'll take a look at them tonight!

Dan - would a PCV valve like this also do the trick? Trying to find parts in Canada can sometimes prove easy or expensive. Seems that the one you recommended was only $11 USD, but the Canadian version was over $30! Let me know.
Thanks

https://www.amazon.ca/Fram-FV299-Positi ... =PCV+Valve

I know all too well about parts (un)availability and high price in Canada; I'm in Vancouver. I buy all my parts in the States. Aside from Fram being a low-quality brand, the PCV valve you listed won't fit/work for you. If you can't order from the States for whatever reason, go by application: 1966 Chevrolet Bel Air with 250 CID (4.1L) six-cylinder engine, non-California, without air injection.

Another option: swap on a conventional Slant-6 valve cover which will readily accept a standard Chrysler PCV valve.

Don't just cap off the choke with a blankoff cap, it'll make the beast impossible to start from cold. The electric choke will make your life much easier than any other way forward, but if you insist to keep the heat-tube style choke, given the broken-off existing heat tube provisions, you'd make a blockoff plate for your exhaust manifold stove, drill two holes in it, make a U-bend in a piece of stainless steel tubing of the appropriate diameter, push the legs of this bent piece of tubing through your blockoff plate (U-bend inside the exhaust manifold, pipe ends facing the sky), fasten the tubing in a leak-free manner to the blockoff plate (???braze?), connect one end of the tubing with high-heat rubber hose to the clean side of the air cleaner, and use a commercial choke tube repair kit to connect the other end of the tubing to the carburetor. Pain in the nuts and it still won't work very well because they don't.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

If that's the same system as the VE Valiants had,well, the were barely adequate in a warm climate like ours...when or if they worked,which was rare...I cannot even begin to imagine the enjoyment they must have bought to cold starting in cold climates like yours! Hands down the best modification would be to delete it and use an electric set up.

My only reason for not being too concerned about the choke in cold weather is the fact that this is running an RV which will only see summer use (maybe some late spring early fall). There's way too much salt on the roads in Toronto to risk driving this thing around when it's cold!

Uh-uh. The choke isn't "for cold weather", it's for cold starts. "Cold engine" means it hasn't been run in a few hours -- no matter what the outside temperature is.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Heh! Told I was a newbie!

Hi Dan!
Hoping you can answer this one for me - the image attached is from the exhaust flange. I believe it was used to heat the choke for cold starts, but I assume it is broken. Assuming it was in working condition, how would the vacuum circuit run? Since the only vacuum is on the intake and you've already suggested that it should be connected to the cam head cover port, I'm at a loss.

I've looked into the electric choke but trying to get this vehicle certified and on the road so I can more easily mess with things (no room at home and the vehicle is in storage). Any suggestions would be great!

Thanks again in advance

If you really want to mess with that thing, you can go to the trouble of bending up steel brake line tubing. Hardline from one end of this dingus extending about six inches; connect high-temp rubber hose from there to clean side of air cleaner. Hardline from other end of this dingus all the way to carburetor choke hot air inlet, with appropriate insulation sleeve. A lot of hassle and frustration to wind up with a setup that won't work well. Either that, or one phone call and a brief wait to get hold of the electric choke kit, toss it on in 10 minutes, maybe spend another five minutes adjusting it, and you're done. I feel like I know which option I'd pick. I also feel like one or two or three somebodies might have said this before one or two or three times.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Fine! Have it your way ; )

I'll reach out to carbsonly ASAP and get this thing done! Thanks Dan