I’m planning ahead on my 1983 D150 slant six for my Dutra duals to come in so I figured now would be a good time to replace the starter with a smaller unit to help with clearance as much as possible, so per some recommendations, I went with the Remy remanufcatured starter that I believe is for a late model Hemi but seems like it’s been used on slants before, but it seems the houses hits a bolt on the bellhousing and won’t slide in. Has anyone else had issues with this and how did you remedy it? It’s either that, or buy another smaller starter that WILL fit with no issues, whatever those would be. Thanks!

using the .org search function I was able to find the statement copied above that addresses a hemi mini starter,,,,

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Doo Ron Ron and the Duke of Earl are friends of mine.....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uX8Nj8ABEI8

Yes you have to drill one of the holes in the starter out. It is threaded. And then one of the bolts that goes through the block back into the bellhousing hits the starter housing. I countersunk an allen head bolt on that location. Used a 5/8" bit ( i think) to create the countersink.

I will try and find the link to it.

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

Here you go it was in my Hyperpak thread

http://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php ... 4&start=75

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

I got one of those hex head bolts and used a countersink for it and it worked great!! Thanks guys!

I was just thinking about this yesterday, as I put a new engine in the racecar and had to countersink that hole again to clear the "super-mini" starter. I recall reading that this is the only starter that will clear the Hyperpak or Dual Dutras. I can now confirm it does the latter.

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Somehow I ended up owning three 1964 slant six A-bodies. I race one of them.
Escape Velocity Racing

I just received notice that my Aussiespeed manifold and Dutra duals have made it to the USA and should be shipping to me soon hopefully! I keep debating that while the truck is basically all stripped down, I should just go ahead and pull it and go ahead and get some head work done (shave the head to raise the compression, valve job, etc), rebuild, swap and new cam, and paint the engine block. It’s funny how one thing leads to the next. What started with a simple HEI swap has now lead to the starting the motion on getting the whole truck restored from The top to bottom. Haha! Since you’re racing a slant six, any suggestions on specs for the heads, motor, etc? I’m just looking for a nice drivable rebuild with some hop up to it.

Well, calling what I do "racing" is generous. I race a Dart in the 24 Hours of Lemons, which a budget limited endurance race that's more about reliability than speed.

I think others on this forum could give you much better advice about building an engine for better power, but the general formula for the slant six is raise the compression, add oversized valves, port the head, and then select a cam to go with your compression ratio. After you raise the compression and add higher flowing manifolds, the cylinder head is the big restriction.

Bigger valves and port/bowl work can get involved or expensive, but if you're already spending the money on AussieSpeed manifolds, I think now is the best time. At the very least get the head decked, but take all the appropriate measurements before you head to the machine shop so you know where you're starting out.

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Somehow I ended up owning three 1964 slant six A-bodies. I race one of them.
Escape Velocity Racing