Going thru old posts ( Im still on page 300sumpthin ) I see that it was recommended to replace these studs just for good measure and a higher grade was suggested. Possibly AARP as a source if that makes sense?

Is this still recommended and where might I get these?

I see that a good thread sealer is recommended as well and I plan to do that, Im assuming an all purpose Napa supplied silicone sealer would work just fine?

There seemes to be some confusion on whether all studs went into water jacket or just some but I guess for good measure I will seal all when I get to that point.

Some use pipe dope, I use blue Loctite. I rather not have stud backing off when disassembling or removing manifolds, or tightening up in head when trying to torque down manifolds.

Removal of studs is easy, just heat the stud up a little and the blue stuff lets go.

Assume all studs see coolant.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

Very Wise Advice!

+1 on Blue Loctite also.

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1964 Dart GT

This thread will tell you where you can get them. http://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php ... ifold+nuts
Also check here http://www.silver-seal.com/product/6403 ... x-188.html

Dave

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86 Miser 170,000+
2 1/4" exhaust
Holley 1920 #55
HEI MSD BLaster 2
17.8 mpg

Thank-you jarhead, Ill check them out

I will invest in the blue

Jarhead, ( or anyone ) what was the reason behind replacing these studs, they are a bit spendy and Id like to justify the cost somehow. Im reading people are replacing the originals but not reading why. Maybe its because the originals are not coming out of the heads in one piece due to climate conditions, if thats the only reason ( as an example ) than maybe Ill stick with the originals since I have no problem removing any of mine.

I understand these are stronger but is that really necessary on a basically one notch above stock re-build.

Silver Seal is only .70 cents per stud.

Dave

_________________
86 Miser 170,000+
2 1/4" exhaust
Holley 1920 #55
HEI MSD BLaster 2
17.8 mpg

Thanks but can you clarify on the benefits you found by using these, what do we gain?

Mcaster has also a minimum shipping requirement and I think its 10 or 12 dollars last time I purchased from them.

I don't know of any reason other than replacing as needed.

Dave

_________________
86 Miser 170,000+
2 1/4" exhaust
Holley 1920 #55
HEI MSD BLaster 2
17.8 mpg

Thanks Dave, an honest good answer and its appreciated

Hi I'm new to the forum and have an important question regarding the intake/manifold studs on a slant. Are they all the same size? I should know after taking apart but I got mixed up after breaking a few. Much appreciated.

If you mean the studs in the head that the intake and exhaust manifolds mount to, as far as I know they are all the same size. Granted that hasn't stopped me from using a longer stud in a pinch, then adding a washer or two between the nut and the triangle washer.

_________________
Somehow I ended up owning three 1964 slant six A-bodies. I race one of them.
Escape Velocity Racing

The studs are all the same size.

The key is making sure that the correct washer and fastener is used when re-assembling.

Fat circle washers and BRASS nuts go on each end on top, there is 1 fat circle washer with a regular nut smack in the middle on top, the remainder get triangle washers and regular nuts. Be sure not to over-tighten the manifolds.

~THOR~

_________________
1984 D100 Shorty Custom
Certified Auto Appraiser - RevItUp Classic Appraisals
President - Cherry City Bombers CC
Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

Generally every head I work on gets planed so I have to take the lower studs out anyway. That just seems like a good time to change them out and not have to clean up the old ones.

_________________
2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6