Found this: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetai ... I%2D129000 on Summit Racing and was wondering if anyone's used this kit before.

I know squat about rebuilding a tranny, so it'd be something I have to take in to be done.

Thoughts?

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me

Hey Jopapa,
I was scared to death of taking apart an automatic transmission. But I found a knowledgeable fellow Mopar club member that was willing to walk me through a rebuild/shift kit install. I used the TCI kit. It is pretty close to a B & M kit. It even has a carbon copy of the instruction manual.
Once you get inside a 727/904 you realize it isn't as scary as you thought. If you are even somewhat mechanically inclined and have a knowledgeable friend look over your shoulder it would be fun to rebuild it yourself.

Rob

So do you think that's a good kit to use?

How about a torque converter? Would it be necessary to replace that after only 75K miles of use, or is the factory one just fine?

If it should be replaced, how much would a quality 2K RPM stall non-lockup converter cost, ballpark figuring?

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me

I'm certainly no expert on transmissions. I used the TCI kit because I couldn't find the hight performance B & M kit for the A904, just the A727.
I would have rather used the B & M kit. To be honest, the TCI kit seemed like just a copy of the B & M kit. It also didn't come with a 5.0 kick down lever that I wanted for racing.
I haven't driven the car yet, so I can't attest to the kits quality or my rebuild abilities
Most good transmission shops can clean and test your torque converter for you. Some can even increase the stall speed on the converter you take in. You should at least have it cleaned out and checked.
Your intended use of the car should dictate how you go about your tranny rebuild and what torque converter you choose. You can get a higher stall converter for anywhere from $150 up to several hundred dollars. It depends on how much you want to spend and what you're going to do with it.
For a daily driver that sees a race track every once in awhile, just a standard rebuild and a stock converter would be fine. Do you want your neck to snap and maybe chirp the tires when it shifts from 1st to 2nd? Then put in a shift kit as well.
I need to say again that I am no expert. Everything I just said is just passing on what I've been told. I called around to several of the major transmission/torque converter suppliers that advertise in the Mopar magazines. Most of them are very friendly and helpful.
When you call you need to have a realistic idea of what you are really going to do with the car. Do you dream of drag racing with the big dogs every weekend, but will really only go to a test & tune a couple times a year for fun? Then save your money and go with a standard rebuild. The guy on the phone wants to sell you what you will be happy with. A high stall converter with a snap your neck shift kit gets old really fast in a daily driver.
Sorry to ramble....

Sounds like you're at least farther ahead than I am.

What of the 5.0 kickdown lever? What's the purpose of that?

Our goal is to turn the car into a pretty rippin' street rod, so the "snap ya neck" shifting is okay by her, especially if it means longer transmission life.

Any thoughts on how much it'd cost to have a stock converter cleaned and adjusted to about 2K RPM stall speed?

Summit says the kit doesn't have instructions, and I couldn't even find any for it on TCI's site either, so how hard is it gonna be to do this just by following the factory rebuild procedure? Or did you even use this exact kit?

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me

My understanding is that the 5.0 kickdown lever provides a harder shift form 1st to 2nd. The shift improver kit will provide harder shifts, but the lever adds to it. (Someone please correct me if I'm wrong here)
I had my converter reworked to a "higher" stall for about $100, but I can't speak for the quality of the job. The shop came recommended by the friend that helped me rebuild the trans. He had three or four done there. I think he called it the "midnight special treatment".
Have you checked out the transmission article(s) here on this site? There is some concern about the converters having a weak spot that fails with hard driving. Maybe it's just in drag racing applications. I'll have to re-read the article.
I'll check the part # on the box for my TCI kit this evening. It had complete instructions with it that were a duplicate of the B & M kit. Definitely use a Factory Service Manual for the rebuild as well.
If you belong to a Mopar club ask around to see if someone knowledgeable with automatic transmissions would be willing to help you out. That's what I did and made a good friendship with Roy. He let me keep my car at his house, walked me through the engine and transmission rebuilds, and helped me paint my engine compartment. He was going to help me with the whole project, but I got real busy at work after September 11th. I could only get out to his house once in awhile, so time for the Army to move me came before the project was completed. I wound up towing the car from Texas to Georgia and still haven't finished it. In fact, I've been stealing parts off of it for the GodsRods Duster project.

Going to the 5.0 KD lever, will acually slow down the band apply. The reason for the 5.0 lever is the increase in clamping force on the drum, for the high output engines. Look at it as a lever between the servo and the band, (which it is). If the band end of the lever has to move .125 inches to clamp the band and the servo has has a force of 100 lbs(these numbers are to illustrate only). With a 3.8 ratio lever, the servo has to move .475 inches and the clamping force on the band will be 380 lbs. With a 5.0 lever, the movement of the servo will be .625 inches, and the clamping force will be 500 lbs. Since the servo has to move further, it will take fractionally longer. A 5.0 lever is not neccessary on a slant, in most cases.
Is this clear as mud?

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

Um,...Thanks Charrlie. Will I see you at Clay City? Hopefully the Duster will be able to make it down the track a couple more times.
Rob

Planning on it. Where and when are you and Ron meeting. We usually stop at Red Top State Park, to go swimming, then drive up into Tenn, and stop to sleep, Thur nite. Get back on the road early Fri morning. If you are going to have your cell phone, send me a PM with the number, and I'll send mine, to you.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

Ron and I will be meeting just North of Calhoun at 8:00 am Friday. I think I already have you cell phone number from the Bristol trip. I'll shoot you a PM with mine.
Rob

Well it cleared it up a bit for me at least

So what's the ideal ratio for a street rod /6?

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me