Is it a common problem for the mounting flange on headers to only be about half the thickness of the intake manifold mounting flange? Now I've got to have go have spacers welded to the headers so they'll fit. I'm starting to think I should have just kept the stock 1 barrel and been happy with mid 20 second quarter mile times... Ugh.
Rob

Rob, the flange on my headers was a smidgen too thin, but not half the thickness of the intake lugs... My solution was to add some washers of the appropriate thickness under the special triangular washers on the header flange side. Of course, you may neeed something thicker than a washer in your case. You could make some spacers of the appropriate thickness and tack weld them in the spots where they need to go, or just epoxy them in place for installation purposes. Just know that if you epoxy them, they will probably fall off if you ever remove the manifold/headers.

"DW"

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If it ain't broke, fix it!

I was thinking about this comment, Rob, and your becoming discouraged. I can't speak for others, but one of the things I find fun about messing with the /6 is that it is an interesting challenge and it requires that I come up with innovative solutions to problems you may not encounter with the "mainstream" stuff. Kind of makes a person "think on their feet". I myself was surprised at the depth of knowledge and experimentation here when I joined very recently. Before that, I had basically been on my own, experimenting and figuring things out the hard way, with an occasional good mag article coming along in recent years, usually citing some tidbit from the wealth of knowledge accumulated by our esteemed "Doc".

I guess what I'm saying is, you must already have a "leaning" (huh-huh) towards the slightly unusual, else you'd be driving a 350 powered Generic Motors something-or-other like most of the sheep out there. Their stuff is cheap and easy, but what do they HAVE that hasn't been done a bazzillion times before??

"DW"

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If it ain't broke, fix it!

Rob,

Just buy some 10-24 or maybe slightly thicker nuts and use them as spacers between the triangle washers and the header flange. I tied the nuts onto the triangles with teflon tape to install them easily. I used this method for 10+ years when I ran the MP header on my '68 Dart. Cheap and easy and never had a problem!

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Thanks guys,
Sorry for the discouraged comments. I'm still loving this whole thing. It was just a bad day. The suburban we're trying to sell had the rear heater core start leaking and soaked the carpet, I'm still in the middle of fixing and re-tiling the bathroom that had a leak and ruined the floor and ceiling, the four barrel/header install and power to manual steering swap were not going smoothly and I still haven't gotten that dad-blasted tap out of the head on my 318 Dart. I was just going in too many directions at once.... I'm okay now.
The kids in the youth group are having a blast wrenching on these cars! They've gutted the Turismo and pulled the intake/exhaust and steering off the Duster. Now I need to get these things back together and out racing!
I'm probably going to have someone tack weld some spacers to the headers.
Thanks for all your replies.
Rob

Rob, What I do in that situation is, using an arc welder, put a glob of weld on one side of the triangle washer. Put it on the sidr that does not meet the manifold/header properly. That will build up the thickness of the washer, so it will mate properly. Take a file to smooth the weld slightly. Takes a little longer, but just needs to be done once.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225