Hello Everyone!

I did a little searching and it appears there's some debate on the heat risers, but I still have a question. I'm putting together my spare slant so I can put it in my D100 while I build the race slant, so this just needs to run "ok" - good enough for dump runs and the occasional local joy ride. With that in mind, I decided to yank off the manifolds while I had the engine on the stand, and realized the original exhaust manifold had a corner cracked off, and I snapped off all 3 bolts that attach the intake/exhaust. I figured a new exhaust manifold would be less hassle and less money than trying to rework the old manifold, so I ordered a new one. The casting quality doesn't look great, but for a stone stock non-rebuilt early 60's slant, I'm not to worried about it. What I AM concerned about is that comparing the old and new manifolds, the new manifold heat riser valve never has a position where it looks like it'll almost completely deflect the exhaust gasses, unlike the old one which does. The engine-side of the flap leaves about 1/4" gap between the top of the valve and the ceiling of the manifold in the "warm" position. Will that create any driveability problems, and if so is there a good way to fix it?

_________________
1963 D100: 3-on-the-tree, 3.50 rear, mostly original, stainless bore clutch slave & brake master, rebuilt speedo, original rebuilt carb.

1961 D200: crew cab short bed, sold.

1965 D500 Crew Cab, planning a 6V92 swap and 6x6 conversion.

The '71-up heat valve looks and works a little differently than the '60-'70 valve. Don't fret about it; it's fine.

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Thanks!

_________________
1963 D100: 3-on-the-tree, 3.50 rear, mostly original, stainless bore clutch slave & brake master, rebuilt speedo, original rebuilt carb.

1961 D200: crew cab short bed, sold.

1965 D500 Crew Cab, planning a 6V92 swap and 6x6 conversion.