Well, my shopping list is getting shorter.So far I have picked up these p
eices for my winter slant six build to be installed in my 60 Valiant:

Good 68 225 with low(58000)miles
Hyper-Pac intake
Comp Cams 264s with lifters
I just sent Doug a money order for a Dutra Dual(already have rear modified)
Holley 450 cfm vac secondary
Msd or factory electronic ignition(I have both- which would you use)
A- body 4 spd o/d trans
4 piston K-H disc brakes
I plan on using Docs recomendations for H-P intake mods but now i need advice for the cylinder head.I am using the stock size valves but I plan on shaving .075-.090(I will be using the Fel-pro composite head gasket)but I need suggestions on port work and what kind of valve spring I need with this cam.Any other suggestions on this build will be very much appreciated. This will be a street engine that might see a little strp time but mostly used for blasting the back roads road race style.Rear gear is 3.55.Also do I really need a cam stop with this set up or is that for more serious race engines.
I also have a freshly rebuilt 170 and was wondering how all of this would work on it or should I just stay with the 225.
Thanks,Slanted Attitude

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Ive got a slanted attitude and a heavy right foot.

Hey Slanted,

Good to see things are progressing well up there in VA.

Here are a few of my thoughts:

I have never used a cam stop, even on my '64, but I may try one on a future motor.

You can get away with almost a stock valve spring on that cam, but a 340 spring would give a little extra insurance and would definitely be enough. I am no expert on port work, but I have used the SBC 1.72/1.50 valves in my motors. I hear the SBF are a better fit though (slightly shorter than SBC).

Use the 225 since that's at least 40-50 more HP.

You coming to Wilkesboro this Sat? I'll be there.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

i'd use the MSD, it made a noticeable difference on my 225, mostly just cleaner/smoother idle and a really smooth rev up the powerband. I had moved up from the Pertronix, which is good for a stock engine i think.

My cylinder head has the stock size valves but is ported. A really nice bowl under the valves, smoothing into the ports, all strange bumps taken out and smoothed down. Port openings matched. Polished chambers, all sharp edges taken off. Head has .020 shaved. Block has .060 off the deck.

My cam is around .480 lift and 230'ish@.050 duration, i think it pulls really nice from 3000-5000, but my 2bbl carb doesn't give it enough gas, so that's next...

Thropar makes some good points. I'm running a 'street' ported head, and I know when I put the Hpak and 4 barrel on my next two bottle necks are going to be cam and valve sizes (I kept them 'stock'). I also will want to step up to better ignition (mopar EI does have limits...and I get sick of swapping cooked ballast resistors...)

One thing I did notice recently while on the highway monitoring my vaccuum gauge so get a benchmark to set up my 4 barrel , my Duster with 3.55's in OD basically is at 'idle' rpm and vacuum-wise at 65-70mph...

The stock BBD really goes 'flat' after 1/2 pedal in all forward gears. Just an FYI to make an educated guess toward your build up(your car should weigh about 500-800 lbs. less than mine too).

-D.Idiot

Thank for the replys,and Im sure the further I get into this project the more questions Ill be asking.
Lou,I hope to have this thing ready fo Bristol next year,but Im lacking the most valuble commodity--TIME, but hopefully this winter things will ease up enough to to get some quality slant time in.Right now Im just trying to gather all my parts and get a plan of attack going.Thanks again.
Slanted Attitude

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Ive got a slanted attitude and a heavy right foot.