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Radiator patch
https://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6622		 Page 1 of 2
Author:  Jopapa [ Tue Aug 19, 2003 4:12 pm ]
Post subject:  Radiator patch
Well the top neck on the radiator is loose (ie, I can wobble and turn it with just two fingers). Aside from that, it's in good shape, so would that be easily patchable by soldering?
Author:  mighty mouse 63 [ Tue Aug 19, 2003 4:20 pm ]
Post subject:  Options
Have it resoldered, remove the radiator and if they charge more then $15.00 bucks your being ripped off. Can't say what they would charge with it in the car, my shop wouldn't do it. Third option go to radio shack and buy a mini-soldering torch with silver solder and some flux, clean it down to copper and do it yourself you'd be suprised how common this repair is. That reminds me, I have never properly repaired the recovery nipple, just call it my liquid steel experiment ...Dave
Author:  Jopapa [ Tue Aug 19, 2003 4:26 pm ]
Post subject: 
I never really did understand the purpose of using flux. Is it just for better heat transfer?
Author:  Pierre [ Tue Aug 19, 2003 6:08 pm ]
Post subject: 
Flux, when heated, quickly and violently (sizzles, spurts, etc) evaporates, removing the contaminantes on the metal and opens up the pores. That way the solder can seep into the pores and bond stronger.
Author:  Dennis Weaver [ Tue Aug 19, 2003 9:53 pm ]
Post subject: 
Solder is best, and not too difficult on a joint like that, but JB weld can be used in a pinch, just get the surface really clean and dry and warm the JB with a hair dryer to get it flowing good. JB weld is man's best friend!

Before anyone jumps on me, know that there's probably an airplane flying over your head held together with JB weld-like epoxies right this moment :shock:

"DW"
Author:  Jopapa [ Tue Aug 19, 2003 10:20 pm ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
Before anyone jumps on me, know that there's probably an airplane flying over your head held together with JB weld-like epoxies right this moment :shock:

"DW"
Do I wanna know?
Author:  Dennis Weaver [ Tue Aug 19, 2003 10:47 pm ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
Do I wanna know?
Probably not! You thought airplanes were made out of old beer cans? More and more, we're making them out of paper, plastic and glue. Composites, dude! Pass the scissors!

"DW"
Author:  Uptown Joe [ Wed Aug 20, 2003 7:32 am ]
Post subject: 
Nice... I live right in a flight path.

Question: what would you use to remove the paint on a raidiator and get it down to shiny copper? I don't know if it's a good idea to hit it with aircraft remover.. (ah, the tie in)

Joe
Author:  Dennis Weaver [ Wed Aug 20, 2003 9:37 am ]
Post subject: 
Well, brass, actually, and it's not going to shine until you polish it. If you're talking about removing paint to affect a repair, use sandpaper.

To get all the paint off and polish the tanks, I'd use a product like "Off" (the krylon stuff, not the bug stuff!) which is as close as your local Wal-mart. Any paint stripper will burn your skin, so be careful and use gloves.

"DW"
Author:  Pierre [ Wed Aug 20, 2003 2:58 pm ]
Post subject: 
Aircraft grade paint stripper. Local kragen has it in aresol can so it is a bit less messier. I've used rubber dishwashing type gloves, laytex gloves.. etc. It helps, but is not 100% effective. Aircraft stripper still works its way through the pores.
Author:  Uptown Joe [ Wed Aug 20, 2003 4:09 pm ]
Post subject: 
I've used Aircraft Stripper before (neat stuff, looks like Blueberry Smoothy) on some air tanks that I took down to bare steel...

I was just curious if it would damage the metal under the paint - I've used it on steel but never brass...

- The trick to aircraft stripper is to brush it on in one direction, there is a wax in the compound that helps it seep into the pores of the paint and get to the metal underneath. Let it sit for about 1/2 hour and hey, presto the paint starts to crackle and come off. It dosn't burn that bad when you get it on your skin, just rinse it with clean water quickly.

Joe
Author:  Dennis Weaver [ Wed Aug 20, 2003 10:07 pm ]
Post subject: 
The stuff sold in parts stores as "Aircraft Stripper" is aircraft grade stripper in marketing only. While I'm sure it will do the job for you, I like the way "Off" works (and it's cheap)...

"DW"
Author:  Pierre [ Wed Aug 20, 2003 10:25 pm ]
Post subject: 
Dennis,
Im not sure what aircraft stripper your using, but I have used normal (not marked aircraft) stripper and it is lots weaker then the aircraft stripper. I'm not talking about that natural orange stripper or anything fruity like that either. I believe the brand was kleen-strip, I used their normal and aircraft stripper and the aircraft stuff works lots better.
Author:  Dennis Weaver [ Wed Aug 20, 2003 10:41 pm ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
Dennis,
Im not sure what aircraft stripper your using, but I have used normal (not marked aircraft) stripper and it is lots weaker then the aircraft stripper. I'm not talking about that natural orange stripper or anything fruity like that either. I believe the brand was kleen-strip, I used their normal and aircraft stripper and the aircraft stuff works lots better.
I didn't say it doesn't work; I said it's not really aircraft stripper. That's just their marketing, though it may well be gnarlier than their regular stuff. I've used it before, but as I said, I prefer "Off" which is an aerosol applied stripper. And yes, I'm aware the stuff your talking about comes in aerosol as well.

"DW"
Author:  GTS225 [ Thu Aug 21, 2003 11:35 am ]
Post subject: 
For what it's worth, the plastic model guys use about three different products, available at Wal-Mart. Try Wesley's bleche-white, (auto tire cleaner), Easy-Off oven cleaner, or Castrol Super-clean, (another automotive product). These will strip paint off without harming plastic, and also strip chrome from plastic without harming the plastic. (Anybody looking to refinish thier instrument cluster?)

Roger
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