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| Measurements for Rebuild and Block Questions (Using Doc’s Book) https://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=66669 |
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| Author: | hyper_pak [ Mon Jul 11, 2022 10:22 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Measurements for Rebuild and Block Questions (Using Doc’s Book) |
I think Doug will chime in with some comments. I would say the dist markings are build stampings as they went down the crank? Just a guess, I have seen similar on the pan rails. |
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| Author: | kesteb [ Mon Jul 11, 2022 3:10 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Measurements for Rebuild and Block Questions (Using Doc’s Book) |
I believe that you tap the preexisting drain holes in the lifter gallery. You camphor the oil tubes to the mains by using a long extension and a round ball grinding stone and reaching down the oil gallery. Not easy to do. And i wonder how many have actually done so. I found it beneficial to port and smooth the inlet from the oil pump to the oil gallery. I was able to get 60 psi with a standard replacement pump. |
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| Author: | BuzzCatcher [ Mon Aug 29, 2022 6:42 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Measurements for Rebuild and Block Questions (Using Doc’s Book) |
Up! |
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| Author: | Rick Covalt [ Mon Aug 29, 2022 6:28 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Measurements for Rebuild and Block Questions (Using Doc’s Book) |
I have done the stand offs and the chamfer method on my first Big Bore"race" engine. And on my last one I did neither. I think it is a good bit of work for an unknown amount of benefit. I did drill an extra hole over the fuel pump, and I ran a wheel cylinder hone through the lifter bores to give them a little extra clearance. I believe the standoffs I used were 3/8" pipe nipples(brass) that I cut in half and then threaded down into the block. I made my own tool to thread them in. I'll see if I can locate a picture for you. There is not much room to work down in there. But you can put your 3/8" NPT tap on a long extension with a socket and tap the existing holes. Obviously any additional holes you drill will need stand offs put in also. There is also a hole in the front off the block where the oil will run out onto the timing chain once you put stand off in. I tapped and plugged that hole with a flush aluminum plug with an allen head in it. Then I drilled a small hole(guessing 1/8"or so) to allow some oil to get through there.Not sure if that was the right thing to do but that is what I did. |
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| Author: | Rick Covalt [ Mon Aug 29, 2022 6:39 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Measurements for Rebuild and Block Questions (Using Doc’s Book) |
Here is the picture of my stand offs. They were @ 1" length. Tool fit down inside of them and threaded them in. Attachment: IMG_2535.JPG [ 59.35 KiB | Viewed 1376 times ] Attachment: IMG_2507.JPG [ 45.51 KiB | Viewed 1376 times ] |
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| Author: | BuzzCatcher [ Thu Oct 06, 2022 3:23 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Measurements for Rebuild and Block Questions (Using Doc’s Book) |
Quote: I have done the stand offs and the chamfer method on my first Big Bore"race" engine. And on my last one I did neither. I think it is a good bit of work for an unknown amount of benefit. I did drill an extra hole over the fuel pump, and I ran a wheel cylinder hone through the lifter bores to give them a little extra clearance.
I believe the standoffs I used were 3/8" pipe nipples(brass) that I cut in half and then threaded down into the block. I made my own tool to thread them in. I'll see if I can locate a picture for you. There is not much room to work down in there. But you can put your 3/8" NPT tap on a long extension with a socket and tap the existing holes. Obviously any additional holes you drill will need stand offs put in also. There is also a hole in the front off the block where the oil will run out onto the timing chain once you put stand off in. I tapped and plugged that hole with a flush aluminum plug with an allen head in it. Then I drilled a small hole(guessing 1/8"or so) to allow some oil to get through there.Not sure if that was the right thing to do but that is what I did. Thanks for the insight Rick. Added to my notes! |
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| Author: | Dart270 [ Thu Oct 06, 2022 11:04 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Measurements for Rebuild and Block Questions (Using Doc’s Book) |
I always run a brake cylinder hone through the lifter bores. I have never done chamfer or standpipes and have never had a cam or lifter problem even doing many types of racing and a few 100k miles of (often hard) street driving. Lou |
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| Author: | Charrlie_S [ Thu Oct 06, 2022 12:27 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Measurements for Rebuild and Block Questions (Using Doc’s Book) |
A little late to this game, but. Those letters on the dist boss, are for use on the assembly line. for select fitting the pistons. The pistons are in bins with corresponding letters, and are some small amount different then the "nominal" bore size. I don't know for sure, but I think we are talking tenths of a thousand. |
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| Author: | Greg Ondayko [ Thu Oct 06, 2022 4:13 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Measurements for Rebuild and Block Questions (Using Doc’s Book) |
I had a machinist that would press in Valve guides to serve as my standoffs. Greg |
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