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| Need an opinion https://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6763 |
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| Author: | Guest [ Sun Aug 31, 2003 11:07 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Need an opinion |
Okay, I'm pain the back of my front fender and currently it's setup like this: 1 layer of self-etching sealer/primer 2 thicker layers of reguler anti-corrossion primer 2 coats of anti-corrossion pain and I'm planning on at least one coat of anti-corrossion clear enemal(i.e., topcoat) I'm into over-kill as much as the next person but the next thing I think I want to do I also think my shoot me in the but. I am thinking about sticking on truck bed coating(this is the back of the fender) to mimick the current under-coating. My thinking is that this may actually capture moisture in an area that gets so much moisture. I like the truck bed coating for areas that only get dew on them because the water doesn't stay long, but I think that in the fender the truck bed coating could actually make it rot out quicker. What's everyone's thoughts? |
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| Author: | Pierre [ Sun Aug 31, 2003 11:14 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Your up to 5 coats and possibly more to prevent rust? One coat of POR-15 would have done it. |
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| Author: | Guest [ Mon Sep 01, 2003 9:16 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I'm repainting it(had it sandlblasted). Anywho, I had a hard lesson today. The Dodge Dart Swinger fender off a 73 does not quite fit a Dodge Dart custom fender (73). Well, I have the old fender and it's saveable, it has a small dent (fist size). I can pound it out.... On that fender with sandlblasting it came to 200, it was perfect, and now it won't fit, but I think I can sell it. I can't afford to waist that much money.... |
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| Author: | Pierre [ Mon Sep 01, 2003 9:18 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I don't think por15 would mind bare metal, probably would like it.... What do you mean won't fit? I would have guessed the fenders would be the same minus any holes for trim or stickers etc. |
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| Author: | Patrick Devlin [ Tue Sep 02, 2003 7:46 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I don't think you can paint over POR-15 with good results...is what I've heard. Maybe try to find a book on autobody in the library? I don't know anything about it. Somebody here has to, though. |
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| Author: | Guest [ Tue Sep 02, 2003 10:20 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Believe, me, I would have guessed the fenders would be the same too. Everything is the same, and I mean everything, except where the fender meets the metal wall in front of the engine(on the inside). I'm guessing it's for a different grill, and the only way to fix that problem is to take my current fender(easily restored), cut the end of the piece that connects to the metal piece in front of the engine off, and then put it on the other fender(almost perfect), and hope I do the weld/cut precise enough that it fits. I'm basically going for sucking up the cost and hoping I can sell the almost perfect fender then fix my current fender and put it back on. I'm beating myself in the head. I warn anyone looking for fender, make sure that the piece that connects to the metal wall that in front of the engine is the same as your current fender, this will save time and money. If I did the cut/weld wrong I'd be out of fenders and would have wasted lots of money.... this sucks. |
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| Author: | Pierre [ Tue Sep 02, 2003 10:24 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Patrick he said he was painting the back of his fender, which I took to mean the inside, so I don't think he would care about color. POR15 does have some basic color top coats now as well. |
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| Author: | killin5 [ Wed Sep 03, 2003 7:50 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
I painted the interior of my trunk and floorboards with POR 15 and then had them painted when I painted my car. The paint was done in November and I have not had problems with it sticking to the POR15. I did scuff the POR 15 with a scotch bright pad before I did the paint. The real test though is I removed my carpet when the car was painted and have not reinstalled it. Since I have been working on the car, I have had a small stash of tools on the driver side floor board (screwdrivers and whatnot). This definitely has the potential for scratching the paint off the POR 15. The paint has been holding up fine. John (Once I realized the potential for damage, I moved the tools.) |
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| Author: | Guest [ Thu Sep 04, 2003 9:34 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I actually did care about the color, it was a pretty burgandy, but alas, it's useless. As for the Por-15 debate..... I am clueless |
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| Author: | mighty mouse 63 [ Tue Sep 09, 2003 3:31 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Go with Eastwood coroless,similar to por15 but is able to be top coated. Reminds me of the long unavailable red lead primers grandad used on farm machinery...Dave |
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| Author: | Pierre [ Tue Sep 09, 2003 3:58 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
You can topcoat POR15 with anything you want if you use their tiecoat primer between por15 and your desired topcoat |
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| Author: | '74 Sport [ Tue Sep 09, 2003 9:43 pm ] |
| Post subject: | "Rust Bullet" rust preventative |
I stumbled upon a website last week for a product called "Rust Bullet". Anyone have any experience with it? It claims to apply in only one step, as opposed to POR-15's several steps (cleaners and metal preps). Costs less, too. http://www.rustbullet.com Jerry |
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| Author: | Pierre [ Tue Sep 09, 2003 10:21 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Your telling me your going to paint over dirty surfaces and don't want to clean it? Somehow I doubt anything will work well in that situation.... POR15's first and second step is prep work, cleaning, rust removing, and etching the surface. The third step is applying the por15, and the 4th is a topcoat, only necessary if the paint wil not be exposed to sunlight or other UV rays. You don't have to do the first and second step if you have a fairly clean surface, but doing them just helps that much more. I always use at least a basic wax and grease remover before I even spraypaint something let alone use any fancier paints. |
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