Inherited a B100 with the 225 that has been sitting since 2009.

Carb and fuel pump were gummed up and toasted so they were swapped.

Started under it's own power for the first time in 15 years... Then stalled.

It will run for about 30-45 seconds if started cold and then stall. Won't start again until cold.

So far I have done the following:
New carburetor
New fuel pump
New plugs
New plugs wires
New ignition coil
New distributor cap and rotor
Siphoned the gas and replaced with new
New fuel filter


The issue persists. The pickup coil looked ugly under the distributor cap so the distributor is next on my list. (More economical to replace the whole than just the pickup coil.)

Am I going in the right direction or have I missed something more obvious?

There's nothing evidently the matter with the distributor; that surface rust won't hurt anything. Pull it and lube the slide pads that enable the uppper plate to move versus the lower one, and lube the advance weights, and put the dist back in.

Siphoning out the tank wasn't enough; you're going to have to drain it, drop it, clean the sludge and trash out of it, pull the sender/pickup, and install a new screen on the end of the fuel pickup pipe (and a new gasket when you go to put the sender back in).

Engine starts-->sludge and crap gets sucked against screen, blocking it-->engine stops and stays stopped til trash floats away from screen (by which time engine has cooled).

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I second everythging Dan said. I will guarantee that the distributor and carburetor that were on that engine when you got it are better than almost everything you will find new these days. You are time and money ahead to clean and rebuild the parts you have than just slapping a new part on the motor.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Good ideas there. If yout want to verify that it's the tank/pickup causing the problem before pulling the tank to clean or replace it, then you can do this:

1) Disconnect the rubber line running to the back (rearward) port on the fuel pump (pass side of engine).
2) Put a new piece of 5/16" fuel hose about 3 ft long onto that fuel pump port, put the other end of that hose into the bottom of a full fuel can (at least 1 gallon). Have the fuel can sitting on the fender, best to be strapped with a bungee to the fender apron or other safe, flat surface. Or, have a friend watch/hold the can while you start the engine.
3) Start engine and let it run. If the tank/sender/line was blocked and that was causing the problem, then the engine should run fine as long as there is fuel in the external can.

It is possible there is something wrong with the carb or choke that is causing the proble too.

Also, if you have not adjusted your valve lash, then you should do that following the factory manual's procedure. Tight lash (worn valves) can make the engine run rough and then stall as it gets hot (the lash closes up and holds the valves open). It is usually not this extreme, and I doubt it is your problem, but it is possible and you may as well do this as part of your tuneup procedure so it will run the best it can.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

First, thank you all for the help.

All around great insights here.

First go at taking on something like this.

She isn't pretty but it's my late grandfather's work van. So it has sentimental value.

I'll try the external fuel tank test and let you know how it goes. That sounds promising.

You should look in the carb now, tank junk is in there.

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Hyper_pak

When you say "new carburetor, New plugs new cap".... etc what exactly did you use? What brands, where bought etc.was the "new" carb actually new or reman or new to you but still used, or what? I have tried a couple of new reproduction chinamade carburetors and in my experience they haven't been worth a $#!+. You may have "polluted the water" and added more problems than you had originally

Update.

The carb is a rebuilt 1945, sorry for the confusion there.

Dart270 called it. Saved me the cost on a distributor.

Setup a five gallon gas can and ran a line into the fuel filter upstream of the fuel pump.

She fired right up and ran steady.

A bit jury rigged but I was able to limp it on that gas can into my barn from the garage. The barn has more space to drop the tank to clean it out.

Everything seems to be in order minus the gummed up gas tank. Ran surprisingly well in the half mile between the home and barn.

Any recommendations on a method to clean out the tank?

Thanks again!

Don't forget to replace the pickup sock, which is probably more like a cylindrical screen.

You don't need to change the sender if it's still sending and doesn't have any pinholes in it. New ones tend not to read accurately.

And I'd blow through the fuel line(s) with compressed air once you've got both ends disconnected.

– Eric

Hopefully your van has the plastic gas tank, not the metal one. If it is a plastic tank, pull the tank (drain it first, if possible), hose it out good with a garden hose, replace the fuel pickup filter sock while access is easy, verify operation of the fuel level sending unit while access is easy, reinstall, fill with fresh gas, replace fuel filter.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Glad you have it nailed down now. Happy final fixing!

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988