Just saw this on FABO. Looks interesting.
https://youtu.be/LxS62vA7Phs

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

looks nice and way easier for curve tuning.

I agree. Could be quite nice, if well machined, to replace OEM dists and allow easy adjustments and later style cap+rotor+wires.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Always happy to see new products for the slant six, but I have questions.

(1) Why would a bronze or other metal gear be "wrong" for a slant six? Yes, factory dist drive gear is plastic, but if the gear is cut and aligned to the correct dimensions etc..., why would a metal gear be inherently "bad"?

(2) I thought all vacuum advances were adjustable?

(3) Where would one find a replacement HEI distributor cap/rotor for a slant six?

(4) That big cap might have clearance issues in some applications. Thinking early A bodies.

(5) What is "ready to run style"?

(6) If you have to cut the plug wires to the length you want, are they really specifically custom made for a slant six? Or aren't they just generic plug wires with a terminal on only one end that the end user has to spend time messing with to get to the right length? What is the diameter of the plug wires?

(7) Using a bushing might allow you to change the total amount of timing advance allowed (like filling or filing the holes in the factory governor), but what about advance rate and the rpm at which advance begins? Do we know the advance rate each combination of springs provides?

(8) Will there be a wiring harness adapter to mate to the stock distributor wiring?

(9) The billet hold down looks interesting. Would that fit on a stock distributor?

(10) What makes this superior to the factory distributor?

As far as tuning goes, I am not seeing an advantage over the stock distributor. Still have to pull the distributor, still have to disassemble the distributor, still have to change springs, etc... Personaly, I think the 4seconds flat timing limiter plate is a good option for limiting timing advance.

http://4secondsflat.com/Mopar%20Mechani ... 0plate.htm

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Just some guessing, but I think it is basically like this distributer but with a slant six lower shaft section.
https://www.holley.com/products/ignitio ... parts/8597

1) metal gear not "wrong" but not necessary. nylon gear is easier on the cam
2) don't know about all replacement units, but many factory units are not.
3)MSD.......... don't know for sure but possibly stock GM V-6 would work in a pinch
4)You are thinking the "big caps on the V-8's from the '70's and '80's. this does not use the hugh caps
5) Don't know, would need to check MSD specs
6) Have to cut and terminate almost any "high performance" set. But I would like to know if these are "carbon" core or spiral wound magnetic suppression.
7)https://documents.holley.com/6f1f4f77d7 ... 5f2c2d.pdf
8)I don't know
9)I don't know. It would depend on the size of the hole for the distributer shaft housing.
10) most stock distributers are worn out and need rebuilding, or are "cheap" Chinese made copy cats the are not very good. PS: I have no idea of the quality of these.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

Weren't the gm v-6 engines oddfire with mismatched firing cycles? My memory is something like 117 and 123 degree firing pattern rather than the slants 120 degrees. I believe that eventually they went to an even cycle but I thought they also went to a waste spark system around the same time. A quick wiki search (might be wrong) says the 3.8 continued to be oddfire until 1988. The 4.3L might be a good choice.

Still leaves plenty of other choices including some well supported japanese v6 engines.

GM had both an "odd" fire and a "even" fire V-6. The distributer in my MSD link is a even fire. I don't know any more that what was posted on the original video, but it looks to me the slant six setup is the same as the even fire GM setup with just a different lower shaft/housing

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

I did some looking. The oddfire v6 apparently still used evenly spaced dizzy terminals. I found some wacky pictures of HEI caps with very long terminals on half of the posts. From what I read the spacing was actually 90 and 150 degrees. Also I am understanding it to only apply to 90 degree V6 engines with paired crank journals.

There are likely plenty of 60 degree v6 engines to choose from if they are going to use commonly sourced parts since it is inherently a 120 firing pattern engine. Lots of asian engines used them but many of them went to COP ignitions long ago.

Only need to pull the distributer for ease and convience sake. All the adjustable parts (weights, springs, stops are at the top, just under the rotor. Not under the "breaker" plate.
The 4secondsflat limiter plate is nice, and I have a couple, but it is just a "stop". It does not change the "curve", and you need to dissemble the distributer to change the settings. It saves welding/filing the slots in the advance plate.

PS: I'm not privy to any info on the parts I linked to. Just what I saw in the video, and looked up on the MSD site. I could be totally wrong.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

Thanks for answering, Charlie. I am not being a "Debbie Downer." I am truly happy to see new products for the slant six. However, those are the questions that popped into my head as I watched the video and I would like some answers before I shell out the $225 the guy said that system would cost.

I know Charlie doesn't have the answers and he is just sharing, but I tend to be skeptical of all aftermarket stuff. They make it shiny and tell you happy stories but often don't provide any hard data to back up their claims of why their product is superior. "It just is!"

From what I have seen in that video, I am just not ready to buy it. I really want to see the timing advance curves for each set of springs and the specs on the vacuum can, i.e. vacuum at which advance begins to be applied, total amount of vacuum advance provided, whether the adjustment is for the rate of vacuum advance or amount of vacuum advance, etc...

Plus, I don't like using parts I can't source easily at my local parts store. The non-stock cap, rotor, and wires, just really give me pause.

Maybe I am just a dinosaur set in my ways, but I need to see more verifiable data and information about the product before I jump.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

I am the same way and I suspect that many people crazy enough to still have a slant in a classic mopar are as well. It is hard enough to get quality parts for common applications that are more recent than the slant.

That is why I hope they would sourced parts from something mass produced in this century. Even if it is sourced from the chrysler/mitsu 3.0l v6, because at least it can be sourced from the local parts store same day or next day at the worst.

Let the distributor seize up (rotor hits cap, or whatever other cause). A nylon drive pinion will shear/break. The engine will stop, and stay stopped until the distributor is repaired or replaced.

A metal drive pinion will trash the cam worm. The engine will stop, and stay stopped until the distributor is repaired or replaced, the camshaft and lifters are replaced, and maybe you'll be lookin' at an oil pump, too.
Factory '72-up advances are adjustable.
Those look like stock GM parts.
Cap looks pretty similar to stock diameter to me, but I could be wrong; all I have to go on is the camera angle in this vid, when he's holding the cap in hand. But the cap's ears (for the fixing screws) could maybe make some difficulty.
I'd agree with you that they are not.
Leaving aside how well this distributor does or doesn't work, it's available and new.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I am actually (still) hoping to put together a slant six MPEFI system based on Ford's early 90s setup. The beauty of the system is that is all triggered of of a hall sensor in the distributor and a stock Ford 300 distributor can be machined to work in a slant six block and can run slant six plug wires. Further, this efi system was used with a distributorless ignition system that uses a little sensor in place of the whole distributor, so if distrubutorless ignition is your bag, you can do that, too.

That is my 2¢ about using parts intended for vehicles made in this century.

If the vendor of that distributor releases an advance curve chart for the various spring combinations (like MSD did in the like Charlie posted) and also gives info about the vacuum advance tuning, I would be more open to trying it out. $225 isn't a bad price for a new and well machined distributor, but it is expensive enough that I would buy it just to try it out. I may have been born at night, but it wasn't last night.


Ah! Thanks for chiming in, Dan! Your answers make sense.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

My guess is it probably takes a cap and rotor from a 1970's or 1980's Chevy straight 6. At one point in time I had a Chevy pickup with a 250 that had factory HEI. The 6 cylinders had the coil remote mounted, unlike some of the V8s that had the coil on the cap. If I remember, that's what the cap and rotor looked like.

I have nothing to back up what I am about to post BUT I strongly suspect that the chevy inline 6 community is having the same issue with parts quality that the slant community is having. Poorly made third world quality control rebranded parts seem to be almost a universal problem at this point.

I assume everything on rockauto or amazon to be a counterfeit and low quality. I only trust parts sourced through established supply lines such as dealership or solid parts stores.