Hi been a member for some time now learning as much as I can and have decided to post up a build I'm looking at building and looking forward to any comments or suggestions for it. Have a 68 225 block that I will be taking out to 60 thou and have speed pro cast pistons to suit and hastings moly rings. Will have the deck squared up and internals balanced. Have a viper cam bought through hemi performance here in Australia and the specs are .287 duration on the inlet and exhaust, inlet .243 and exhaust .240 @ 50 with a lobe centreline .113 on the inlet and .111 on exhaust with a valve lift of .481 on the inlet and .478 on the exhaust. Rpm range is 950- 5300.Will be using the stock oil pump but using a MP spring in it. Head mods will be oversized valves 1.44 and 1.7 with cleaning up the ports, crow cams lifters and valves springs with speed pro push rods. Depending what has to come of the deck will have the head machined up to achieve about 100 thou to increase the compression and will be using an endurotec GSAP210E head gasket. Using the standard rockers as rollers over here are about the $2000 for the yella terras. On the manifold side using an aussiespeed hurricane manifold and a 500 cfm avs2 carb along with a one inch spacer, exhaust will be pacemaker headers that have 1½" primary,2" secondary and 2¼" collector. Changing out the distributor from points to an hp electronic unit that is good for 7,500 rpm. Will be running a rollmaster CS5300 double row timing chain and romac RO0224SA balancer. Will be using a beefed up 904,extra clutches and transgo shift kit with an approx 2,600-2,800 stall converter and the rear end will be an 9 inch as I already have it in another valiant that I'm converting back to stock. It has 3.7 gears, lsd and a few other good bits in it. All this will be going into my 1965 ap6 valiant which weighs in about 2758 lb. Sorry for being long winded but would like any comments or power figure what this combo may bring me or any improvements I may make to it. Cheers Steve

If that is the good, big bore gasket I would hold onto that for a build where you really need it. At .060 over any standard gasket should be fine. Since no one is making that gasket I would'nt part with it until I needed to.

Decide what compression ratio you want / need and cut the head to the proper CC's to acheive that. Don't just cut .100 off.

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

Hi Rick yes that's the gasket I'm using. I'm hoping to achieve around the 9.5 to1 compression ratio using 98 unleaded pump gas. I also have access to Wiseco Pro Tru Street Forged flat top pistons that has a compression height of 1.625 in. with a bore size of 3.445" which are a little pricey but am willing to get if it helps to achieve what I want. This is not going to be a drag car just a fun car that I can take out on the weekends but would like to suprise some people with its performance.

I would just use a standard FelPro gasket and save the "good" one. You really don't need the Wiesco pistons either and they are almost zero deck , so that may push your compression too high. Plus you need 7.000" rods for those

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

Thanks for the heads up on the rods Rick

What is the MP spring for the oil pump?

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1970 Barracuda 225 /6, 3spd on the floor, Blue/Blue

I would just put about 1.5 mm of washers under the stock oil pressure spring instead of using the MP one. That gives too high pressure for normal use and can make your rear main seal leak.

Your plan sounds good. The cam has too wide a lobe separation, but it will not hurt you much. I would degree it at 102 or 104 deg intake centerline. 100 would work well too. Use the stock type pistons and stock rebuilt rods and adjust compression for 9.5:1 as you say by milling the block and/or head. Yes, standard felpro or parts store gasket will work fine for this kind of build. Stock rockers will work just fine and you will gain nothing by going to rollers.

If you can measure the piston-deck height at TDC before you tear down the old motor, that will let you decide how much to mill off the block to get the CR you want.

Cheers,
Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Thanks Lou for the info.Wanting to achieve about 9.5 to 1 on the compression and want to keep it n/a at the moment although later on have a turbo set up that I would like to try out just the cost factor at the moment. Over here in Australia things are definitely not cheap especially building a slant, would probably be cheaper building an 8 as I have a police 318 and trans tucked away in the corner but then I would be just like everyone else here although the s/6 is starting to make a come back.

Sounds like you are well on your way. Have fun and Slant on!
Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Hi mate, you may also need to remove some under bonnet ribs to be able to shut it. I did with my AP6, had the Aussie longrunner and 465 holley (no spacer). Also ran a drop base aircleaner. Don't forget to have your distributor recurved also. Cheers

Hey you're not alone on "not being cheap". It ain't any longer over here in the US either

Thanks aypee6 for the heads up on that, didn't take that into consideration but now have gone a different route. Now going for their 4 barrel short manifold and have bit the bullet on a turbo setup which will be a blow through carb setup. Wondering if anyone out there thinks if the cam I was going to be running will suit a turbo setup?