I have an old 1960s era exhaust manifold with the square heat flap counterweight. I am contemplating using it on my slant, but I have a concern. When I got it, the heat flap was frozen solid. Using heat, lots of penetrating lubricant, and some persuasion from a hammer, I got the flap to free up and move mostly freely. On closer inspection I discovered that the flap freed up because the bushings on both sides of the flap shaft came loose from their press fit in the manifold casting. The bushings are still rusted solid to the shaft but spin freely in their bores.

Any suggestions on a way to use this manifold (a) without a leak around the shaft and (b) keeping the heat flap intact and functional? Would it be possible to fully disassemble the flap assembly and press the bushing off the shaft and then back into the manifold? I know the rebuild kits for these are no longer available.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

The flaps are welded on in the middle. So some grinding and then rewelding needs done


I have a stock manifold that I am going to scrap. It has the round counterweight from a 1974.

It is tight but does turn.
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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Argh. OK, I will just leave the current exhaust manifold on the engine. Thanks for the offer on the manifold, but I think shipping would kill the deal. I have two more spare exhaust manifolds with free counterweights but broken bolts in one or more of the three connecting bolt holes.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Convert it to a turbo exhaust manifold.

I've thought about it. Problem it is has already been cut and welded into the rear half of a dual exhuast manifold set.

However, I think I have figured out a way to salvage the two other exhaust manifolds I have that have damaged bolt holes or broken bolts. I just need time to get out to the garage and do it.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

I've got a manifold with one broken stud in it. This following video seems like a safe approach vs using an easy out!

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/flLPbIvn91k

I have a local diesel shop that that has a laser setup I sent mine to to get those extracted "damage free". They're well known for the service. Problem is they're very dependent on "who you are" pricing. My son gets anything he wants from there for free and I have to pay for mine and "for his" too....
It also depends on who you see to take the job in

I have just had success in getting 3 exhaust manifold stuck exhaust heat riser valves free...

Two had been in a salvage yard for decades and one I don't know the history of, but all of the engines are/were stuck with rust, and even a block of wood was largely unsuccessful in getting 3 of the pistons out after the crank had been removed on two of them...

My method so far is to use "Free All" in a silver can with blue writing. It will take your breath away, so I try to use it outside and leave it overnight or for a few days... and reapply again and leave it.. NOT sure that helps, but it is by far the best rust penetrant I have used here in the Vermont Rust belt...

After some time soaking, I begin tapping with a hammer trying to drive the heat riser side to side, sometimes I have used heat, sometimes not.. On the last manifold I got pretty aggressive, as I was interested to see what the limits of this method were, and the manifold has the rear mounting ear/hole broken off.... After it begins to move, I put a little finger pressure on the valve flap to open or shut while tapping side to side and so far I have been successful...

All three broke free and turn easily. Next I will figure out how to remove the broken off bolts so they can be used with a factory intake, and then I will try and weld up that rear broken part of the casting.. all for fun and discovery to see if it will work, and possibly turn them into usable manifolds again...

I'm sharing just in case someone comes looking for suggestions on how to get one back to operational status, rather than buying a new one from dorman.