I scrolled through/searched various forums this one included the old one, forAbodiesOnly, etc.

I watched tons of YouTube videos

I used some AI

I searched for the parts I thought I needed based on the requirements listed for the piratejack kit and recommendations from other on threads/forums/videos and then cross referenced that they should work together.

I went and took more pictures of the wheels I'll try to attach them to this response.

it's really not funny and you get a sinking feeling when you spend that much money only to find out your screwed.

I am sorry.

Seeing photos of both sides of your wheels, I was clearly wrong, and I apologize for impugning your reputation.

When I saw your photo, I thought I was looking at this side of your wheel, which differs from standard factory wheels (I'm not familiar with all of the aftermarket permutations out there):

IMG_0568.jpeg


But really, your photo was of this side:

IMG_0567.jpeg


I would ask whether it is possible to determine what, exactly, is causing your wheels to stand off from your drums (and also whether they sit the same way on the hubs you got with the brake kit).
If they simply don't fit, Coker is a reputable company, and I would expect them to make this right, as they represented these wheels as fitting these cars.

You'd be out the $100 to swap the tires onto different rims, though.

I'm afraid I don't have any great ideas otherwise.

– Eric

Good places to start, though even in the specialty forums there's a wide range of advice quality.
Much less reliable.
This was unwise. Virtually guaranteed to mislead you and lead you astray and wind you up in bad places.
Your heart was in the right place, but it sounds as if you didn't filter all those pieces of advice you got through any kind of a knowledge strainer before putting them together to make your plan. It would've been a good idea to post – here and/or on FABO – and say something like "I'm thinking of buying [this kit, these wheels, these tires] for my '63 Valiant, anyone see problems or have a better idea?". Yes, there are already a million threads, but big parts of the advice can go stale. Parts that were available and worthy 5 or 10 or 20 years ago aren't necessarily available or worthy today, for example.

Your situation (not your behaviour, just your situation) is reminding me of someone we had on here some years back, who had in mind to build a high-performance Slant-6 engine for his Barracuda. He read a whole lot of web pages and magazine articles and plucked the bits that sounded cool from each source, then combined them into his shopping list and recipe. We tried (oh, how we did try!) to get him to tap the brakes and think things through, and take advantage of others' experience and expertise, but he was sure he had done his "research" and his car was gonna be a screamer. It was a disaster; he poured mega-money into it and it ran poorly. He decided it was because the Slant-6 is a stupid, useless engine that can't be made to run well, and last we heard of 'im, he had big plans to build a big V8 instead. Probably the same way, and probably with the same result.
It worked; I see 'em. As I suspected, I would strongly un-recommend using these. For one thing, the lug holes appear to be just crudely stamped. There is no cone-shaped seat for the lug nuts. This is ugly, nasty, not acceptable, quite dangerous. Refer back to that pic I linked up above, of the factory wheels – see how the lug holes have a thicker, cone-shaped seat about them, not just carelessly-punched plain holes)
No, it is not funny at all. It sucks, bigtime. You've got a genuinely good idea in mind, put better brakes on a car you want to drive in today's traffic. That's definitely on the list of stuff you really ought to do. But the devil is in the details, and it looks like he done stabbed you with his pitchfork.

Now: what instead? Well, Scarebird's kits have a good track record. They use inexpensive, readily-available late-model parts. You'd need to come up with your own master cylinder and proportioning valve; those are readily available and inexpensive, as well. Linked kit is for cars with 10" drums – they mention the part number of the kit for cars with 9" drums, but if that one's not available for some reason, you could get the 10" kit and you'd need to source a set of 10"-drum spindles with a parts-wanted ad.

Or, Stainless Steel Brakes offers a highly reputable changeover very similar to the stock '66-'72 disc brakes. Here again, needs 10"-drum spindles and you'd have to supply your own master cylinder and prop valve, etc. This is a much more expensive setup, and the parts it uses are also more expensive and less available.

Both of those kits will fit thoughtfully-chosen stock-type 14" wheels, which would mean no overload of the steering linkage, no destruction of the car's ride quality or acceleration, availability of stock-ish wheel covers so the car doesn't look hacked, no worries about rear wheel/fender clearance, etc.

Nothing bigger than approximately 4.5" in diameter is going to seat on that because that the ID of that convex ridge/ring.

I can't really afford to buy both another kit and another set of wheels. The question is what wheels are an option then if I keep the kit I already have? Or is keeping that kit not an option?

I just want to get the car finished and safe to be on the road. I bought it back in 2010 with my dad we were going to fix it up together he died a few months later unexpectedly and I've held onto it all these years couldn't bring myself to do anything with it until now I decided I was finally ready.

I think part of what caught me up was wanting to keep the small bolt pattern all the way around.

Coker used to be a reputable company, years ago. They aren't anymore.

"Last year when we went to the Coker tire/ speed shop/ car museum, the guy at the counter told us Corky sold off the tire business awhile back."

"I just got a set of Wheel Vintiques 15x7 SBP from Coker and 3 of the wheels had poorly defined notches for the hubcaps and the dogdish caps wouldn't snap on securely. I didn't realize until they were mounted on the car and I tried putting the caps on. Of course they clearly state that once they are mounted you can't return them."