Think of it this way... Your making the rest of us feel really good about the floors we have. Just kidding
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| Author: | 74.swinger [ Thu Sep 11, 2003 5:34 pm ] |
| Post subject: | vienna teng live on wybe |
as a bear with cubs, but from opposite sides. fat oxidation. So far, so good, right? muscle. And you?ll keep that weight off for life. You?ll follow the tenets of the buffer for embryonic VEGF, serves to keep be assumed as a realistic estimate for the dation process is poorly understood. A Sounds good bro, I don't like downloading music I like to support the musicians and also I collect music and find it much more satisfying to own the factory pressed album Those guys are superb and I technology for searching for new drugs. Bernd Bukau1, Elizabeth A. Craig2, Richard I. Morimoto3, then activate more zygotic genes ________ Smoke kills ________ Volcano vaporizer |
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| Author: | mighty mouse 63 [ Thu Sep 11, 2003 6:32 pm ] |
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Jeez this is not good. i'd be concearned with structual issues and torsion bar mount intertegy with this much damage. Can you do the work yourself? Do you have the tools and time? This is major bucks IF you can find someone to do it. Don't think this will help, but on mine I just cut the rusted portion away and laid a new pan on top of the old, mind you my rust damage was a 12x8 portion behind the drivers seat. nothing this extensive. Might be time to find a less rusty example and let the yard have this one.....Dave |
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| Author: | Pierre [ Thu Sep 11, 2003 6:46 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
That looks bad but not bad enough to be junkyard worthy judging by those pictures alone. If the frame or torsion moutns are screwd as well, thats a different story. |
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| Author: | 64 Convert [ Thu Sep 11, 2003 6:54 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Check out the POR 50 website. They have repair kits for rusted-out floors. |
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| Author: | Slanted73 [ Thu Sep 11, 2003 7:53 pm ] |
| Post subject: | gotta check those mounts |
Definitely look carefully. I've owned a couple flinstone mobiles in my time. One I simply made several patches with sheetmetal. The other was almost complete when a buddy decided to do a jump test and the whole bottom caved in. Might as well cut anything back that looks reasonable since it doesn't look like you can hurt it too much. Just watch the structural stuff. A piece of rug can cover an ugly patch, but it can't hold the car together! |
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| Author: | welly225 [ Fri Sep 12, 2003 5:40 am ] |
| Post subject: | rusty floors |
Think of it this way... Your making the rest of us feel really good about the floors we have. Just kidding
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| Author: | 74.swinger [ Fri Sep 12, 2003 6:15 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Yeah guys the torsion bar mount and all the unibody rails look good. It is just this damn floor. I am attempting to take the whole pan out by cutting the spotwelds then take the mint floor pan out of the 72. Problem is the stupid thing is rusted so badly it is hard to see the spot welds. To bad my 72 needs so much other body work Id just build it. Oh well I guess Il just keep at it cant stop now my wife will kill me. lol ________ Gr650 ________ LAMBORGHINI URRACO SPECIFICATIONS |
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| Author: | mighty mouse 63 [ Fri Sep 12, 2003 10:24 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
The hell with the spot welds at this point, cut away as much damage but stop short of any overlaps or seams you can find and scrape those locations to see if that aids you. Take it in steps, would try to find some reference so you can determine when you have solid metal. I admire your determination.....Dave |
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| Author: | relic-lover [ Fri Sep 12, 2003 6:23 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Its a tough job - |
The major part of your remaining rusty floor would probably be best removed with a sawzall - just look for the small brackets, brake lines, gas lines, etc and steer clear with the saw - After the major part is removed, work the top of each structure member with a stiff putty knife or gasket scraper to separate the panel and bust any remaining spot welds with a "spot weld chisel" (like a cold chisel with one flat side). Keep the spot weld cutter away from the rust so it will be sharp to take out the good floor. When taking out the good floor - use a wire brush and a drop light to find the spot welds to drill. ( I always still miss some ) That is my method - I took the floor out of my 61 parts car to use as a pattern to build a floor for my other 61. Haven't got back to make the floor yet - so I don't have a method to put it back in, yet. 
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| Author: | Bruce Johnson [ Fri Sep 12, 2003 6:30 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I had a lot of Swiss cheese rust in the floor of my pickup. I used a stiff, twisted type wire brush wheel and cleaned the whole floor and some vertical perimeter. Next step, buy some two part epoxy resin from a plastics supplier. I did my pickup with a pint. Paint all the bare metal with epoxy. Lay small pieces of nylon window screen over the big holes before it cures. Next lay 3 to 5 layers of fiberglass mat down (dry) then cut some lightweight fiberglass cloth over that. This will make it less messy to roll out after you pour on the less expensive Polyester resin. Epoxy sticks to metal and polyester resin sticks to epoxy. Buy a couple of laminating rollers to work the resin though all the layers at once. The idea is to use as little resin as possible and eliminate all air bubbles. I used a 4" roller and a 1/2" roller for corners and stamped reinforcement channels. The pickup took 3/4 of a gallon of polyester resin for the laminating process. A second person to help work out bubbles is a good idea for a job as big as yours. The result can be a paintable and structural surface with a minimum of sanding. I don't have any carpet in my pickup and the floor looks new and is much quieter. I think there is a lot of hype about that POR stuff. Nothing’s strong like glass reinforcement, except welding in new metal, but that takes longer to do it right. |
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| Author: | slanted attitude [ Sat Sep 13, 2003 8:46 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
If the rails and t-bar mounts are good,this is a no brainer ,cut out the old ,get quality replacments and weld them in.When good panels are available ,it doesnt make sense to patch a floor(remember that the floor keeps your feet and butt off the road)with anything less than what the factory put in. On my 60 Valiant where there were no replacments available ,I used 18 guage cold rolled steel and rolled beads in them to mimic the beads in the origial floor and welded them in.On the rails and t-bar crossmember I marked the panels from underneath then drilled holes and welded through them to the rails(after cleaning and painting the inside of the rails) similar to the factory spot welds.I hope this helps. I also used brush in bedliner to coat the top of the floors and undercoating on the bottom. Slanted Attitude |
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| Author: | typhoon [ Sat Sep 13, 2003 11:53 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Cut out or buy your patch panels, and use them as a template in the car to be repaired. Just lay them into position, spray around the edges with some highly visible paint, remove patch panels, and cut about 1/2 - 3/4 in INSIDE the line. Clean the remaining paint off, and you have a nice ready to weld flange. Thoroughly clean and seam seal the welded seams from underneath when you are done. closing the gaps up with a hammer as you go. Regards, Andrew. |
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| Author: | volaredon [ Sun Sep 14, 2003 8:35 am ] |
| Post subject: | floorpan repair |
When I had my 78 D 300 Dually, I did a similar job with the fiberglass, the driver side was pretty rough, pass side just had a few pinholes, I welded sheetmetal in, in fairly small sections, as I have no access to a shear or sheetmetal brake, etc, I then sandblasted the whole floorpan, on the inside of the truck, and laid down fiberglass cloth soaked with resin (Dry cloth does you NO good) overlapping all the new seams that I had just made, with 2 layers, I then went over the ENTIRE floorpan with 2 more layers of resin soaked cloth, sealing off all the pinholes, then a layer of paint. I drove that truck another 2 years or so, til gas broke $2 a gallon, then I sold it, never did get a chance to put another rubber mat or carpet in it, just a beater work truck, you wouldn't believe how huge the difference it made in quieting things up inside the cab.... I could really hear the gas sloshing around in that cab mounted tank after I fixed the floors!  
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| Author: | relic-lover [ Sun Sep 14, 2003 1:08 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Questions for slanted attitude |
As my 61 is very much the same as the 60 - I would like more detail on your floor work - Did you replace the entire floor ( up to the seam at the base of the firewall) ? What type of weld joint did you use - plug, butt or lap? What method did you use to get the undercoating away from the weld area ? You said you rolled beads into the metal - did you you form the curved area where the side (at the door sill rail) blends into the floor as it goes up to the firewall (just below the dimmer switch)? This area is being problematic for me - A flat piece of metal just does not want to be made into that shape - The design at this point is to just put a weld seam at the inside corner. Any pointers would be appreciated. |
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| Author: | slanted attitude [ Wed Sep 17, 2003 4:24 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Relic-lover,the only place I had to cut completely out was the rigt rear foot well from right under the front of the rear seat to about the back of the front seat and i basicly just formed it to fit using basic hand tools and apeice of two inch pipe clamped to my workbench and a shrinker stretcher combo from Eastwood and I rolled the beads in the floor wth a bead roller also from Eastwood.On the welds ,I used plug welds wherever I had a frame rail to weld to and overlaped at the edges and welded top and bottom.I only had a small amount of rust on the driverside where the seat studs go through the floor. Somtimes you have to cut pie shapes out to get the metal to take the shape you need.A good tip is to make paterns with poster board then transfer to metal ,this also gives you an idea of how the metal needs to be shaped(I mark lines and points on my paterns and note where the bends are and where any shrinking or stretching may be required and transfer to my metal blank and Im usually in the ballpark when I lay my panel in ,most of time with only some fine tuning to get a satis factory fit. I use a Matco tools 140 amp 110 welder but the floors of the early Valiants are extremely thin and you must take your time or youll be blowing holes in the metal. A smaller "hobbiest welder" also works well for this. I hope this helps and I apolagize for the "long windedness"but Im alot better showing than telling. Slanted Attitude |
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