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| auto to 833 o/d conversion https://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=7136 |
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| Author: | JohnnyDees [ Tue Oct 07, 2003 6:12 pm ] |
| Post subject: | auto to 833 o/d conversion |
I am almost finished but having clutch linkage problems. I am using the aluminum bellhousingand clutch fork from a pickup with a 10" clutch. The ballstud mounts and pedals and rod are from a 65 valiant. Iwoul like to use the trucks adjustment rod with the bullet shaped ball. but when everything is mocked up it is way to short. Also it does not line up with the mount on the z bar. I have the z bar from the truck which is much thicker but 1/4" shorter. can I move the positioning of the (z bar)rods and reweld. or is there a bar that would work in this application. I am trying to strengthen everything for the 10" clutch while ive got it apart. |
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| Author: | DusterIdiot [ Tue Oct 07, 2003 6:19 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Fork rod for truck=short... |
A-body fork rods are about 7" for the new versions, an original 1974 version I pulled for lack of adjustment was 5 1/2"... If I remember the truck ones are pretty short.... I also think you have to cut down the z-bar arms a smidge too...I have one from a 1981 Ram and it's very different from the 1976 A-body model... -D.Idiot |
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| Author: | JohnnyDees [ Tue Oct 07, 2003 6:42 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Did you use a pickup z bar cutdown? Also do you know if the retainer spring on th bar goes towards the engine or the fender? Do the newer version A body adjusters have the the bullet on the end? |
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| Author: | DusterIdiot [ Tue Oct 07, 2003 10:51 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Buy stock and never worry... |
all of my cars came with manual trannies so I don't have that problem, but that doesn't keep me from stripping parts out of yards for later.... The retainer clip goes toward the driver's side fender, the fork rod 'prong' should be down and nearest the tranny. The 'bullet' replaced the 'castle nut/washer/rubber grommet' on late cars and can still be had through some parts houses and on ebag from R. Ehrenberg...My 1976 doesn't have one, my 1974 came with one and I was the first one to replace the clutch in it....(love estates....) -D.Idiot |
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| Author: | Bruce Johnson [ Tue Oct 07, 2003 11:39 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Heres the real deal. I've done the car engine to truck coversion. The easyest way to do the linkage is to use the truck bell crank unmollested! You will need to make a piece of 1/4" steel plate to relocate the mount on the engine. The truck adjuster works fine also but the real trick is to cut the truck fork in half and the car fork in half the inner part of the car fork matches the bell housing pivot point and the outer section of the truck fork gives you the lenght and matches the adjuster just cut and weld for the proper lenght my borg and beck is loaded to 2600 lbs. and is not hard at all on the leg because of this custom length fork.Bruce J. |
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| Author: | JohnnyDees [ Wed Oct 08, 2003 4:17 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
thanks for all the info. Do you know if the rod from the pedal does the offset end go in the car or in the engine compartment? |
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| Author: | JohnnyDees [ Wed Oct 08, 2003 6:22 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
The arms on the z bar are longer . And one of the arms has just a pin with a cotter pin hole in it instead of the usual nail head on the end of the arm. |
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