Since the GodsRods Duster needs an engine... Here's what I'm looking at. Cost is definitely a factor and I want something that is reliable and very basic that runs on pump gas. Drag race only.

Find a good, running engine... Or at least rebuildable that doesn't need a new crank, overbore, etc.

Mill the head by _________?

Swap in a ___________ cam?

Re-jet the Holley 600 cfm carb with ____ jets?

Intake is an Offy four barrel

Headers are Hooker 3 into 1 open

Trans will be rebuilt with a manual valve body and borrowed 2800 stall converter.

Rear end could potentially be a 8 1/4 with open 3:91 out of early Dakota.

Not sure about vehicle weight. It's a '73 Duster with gutted interior. We will be lightening it some more with lexan windows and removing bumpers, etc. It probably has about 100 extra pounds of bondo!

Thanks for your recommendations.

Rob

OK,...I will play a round of "design a race motor"

Mill the head .050 and the block .100
Get an Engle 276 cam
don't do anything with the Holley carb jets but put in a 8.5 power valve.

That will be a good start.
DD

Thanks Doc,
How's that rash?

What would milling the block and head that much result in as far as compression ratio? I was thinking if I found a good running motor I could save time and money by just pulling the head and having it milled about .100

If I go with a builder motor it's just a little more to mill the block I would guess. What about angle milling the head I have heard about?

What specs is the Engle 276 cam? Sorry, I'm not that familiar.

I have several power valves that came with the Trick Kit when I rebuilt the carb. I'll check for an 8.5 The stock, old, tired motor didn't like that four barrel much! Way too much fuel off the line. Top end almost started to get somewhere. Of course, that's when the really bad rod knock started!
Thanks,

Rob

If I'm milling for compression I like to take material off the block deck more then the head, just because the block is a little more stable. Keeping the decks thick helps prevent head gasket problems and a clean / flat surface on the block and the head also ensures a good head gasket seal. Bottom line is that you should cut on bothe surfaces and therefore, try to split the material between the head and the block.
My "dream wheel" puts compression at 10.4 but you will need to cc the head to know for sure.

As for the poison oak rash, it's gone, so is my Mini Van, we parted it out last week. Next up is the racecar, I think we are going to part it out and swap the parts onto a new chassis.
DD

Thanks,
Since I'm wanting this to last for the kids after the Army moves me next year, I should probably go through the entire engine anyway, rather than just mill the head and throw a new cam in a running engine.
Dale Rose put me in contact with someone that supposedly has a fairly freshly rebuilt 225 in a truck for $300. I could disassemble and check it all out (rings, bearings, etc) and have the block and head milled while the whole thing is apart.
I'm trying to keep costs down, but I've tried to save money before and regretted not spending more up front. I bought a good running 318/904 to put in my '72 Dart for $900. I figured I would replace the gaskets and paint it while it was out. Well, he had put the oil slinger behind the timing chain cover on backwards during the rebuild and the timing chain had chewed it all up and put all that metal into the engine. So I had to tear it all down to replace the bearings, which led to replacing the crank which had already been turned .030, etc, etc. At least it didn't need to be bored again. I was at least able to re-use the .030 over pistons.

Sorry to hear about the Barracuda. I get sentimentally attached to just about every Mopar I get. Especially one that you've had and loved for so long. I still have my 1st car from High School waiting for me back in Tucson. What chassis will you be going with this time?

Rob