well i bolted up my ele. ign. i went the g.m rout and it wont work it dosnt have spark i had the guy i bought it off of see if the ecu worked it did and my coil is a new acell super stack one so i dont know whats up anyone have this prob before??
Thanks

Did you remember to ground the module? When I did this conversion I had the same problem you did until I grounded the back of the actual HEI unit. Give that a try.

Reed

Yea i grounded the hei and still no spark is it usual for a distributer to go out ?? or mabey something could be set wrong? i don know
thanks

May-be you should check to see if that coil fires-off with your old ignition.
On the new set-up,
Check the reluctor air gap and double check all the wiring.
Good clean connections is also important.
Did you splice any wires, you may want to check for resistance through each wire in the circuit to make sure those are good.
Who has that HEI wiring diagram?
DD

where can i find this diagram?

Dont you guys think it should spark? even if the rotor is set up wrong??

The Doc has it nailed. Double check the reluctor gap on the distributor and go back and clean and solder all the connections as well as double check all the grounds. Did you remember to bypass the ballast resistor with a jumper wire?

I uploaded my copy of the wring diagrams to moparpages and I am waiting for it to be approved. Once it is I will post it here.

Reed

this is the picture of how mine is set up

Jared,
I'm sorry if I didn't send you this pic before.
Phil

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I checked the ground,the air gap,and connections even switched them around and still no spark,oh and Doc i was using this coil with my points set up.

Did you get a newer remanf distributor from the local auto parts store.
If so, double check the air gap with a non-magnetic feeler gauge. Roll the teeth on the reluctor past the pickup and check again.

My last remanf. had a reluctor that had 2 teeth that were longer than the other 4 and those would leave no gap at the pick and get no firing.

You also can put a multi meter into the two feed wires from the pickup, set to ohms and roll a properly gapped reluctor tooth in front of the pickup tooth, you should get a resistance reading of 150-900...if not check your connections, if not you may have a bad pickup (same remanf distributor had a new pickup that was bad...I swapped in one from a 1974 Distributor and it runs fine now...)


mostly I think your problem might be some electrical connection that you missed....

-D.Idiot

Did you first check to see if you are getting spark from the coil to the cap?

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i just checked the wire going from the coil and no spark

Okay, moparpages FINALLY approved my picture:



Hopefully this will help you out.

Reed

Well it started but in getting it started me and my mechanic friend decided that the timing was off 180* off so we switched the wires around and put some starter fluid in the carb and it caught fire so i put it out with water. my question is that when i start it up it goes gets rough and dies like its fuel starved could it be something in the carb caught fire?? if so should i rebuild it or return it and get new??
thanks

I don't think switching any wires around will be the equivalent of swapping the distributor 180º.

It's easy to find TDC compression. Remove any one of the sparkplugs, lets call it #x. Put your finger in the #x hole while a buddy bumps over the engine little by little. Keep going untill you feel air being blown against your finger in #x hole. (Remember to remove your finger to let out the compression and put it back in between every bump). Tell buddy to stop bumping just when you stop feeling air against your finger. Now remove distributor, and make sure rotor is pointing to the #x plug wire. Reinstall. This usually gets you within a few degrees to where you can start engine and then adjust by turning distributor.

Note: you can confirm engine is at TDC compression, assuming you used #1 or #6 cylinder to do above procedure, by noting that the timing mark on dampner is at 0º.