Well, that's a radiator you can buy new anymore I was getting tired of having mine fixed, it would leak or the brackets would come loose or it would leak somewhere else.

A big thanx goes out to someone (can't find it right now) with a web page that outlines an alternative radiator that I could get new and fits.

I went to my local auto parts store and ordered a radiator for a 1979 Dodge Aspen, 225, 1bbl, auto, no A/C, standard duty. Along with that the need the upper and lower hoses for the same vehicle.

Installation is easy, first put the radiator in with the top two bolts and mark where the lower bolt holes need to be. Remove the new radiator and drill the lower holes with a 3/8" drill. Install the AT cooler fittings and drain petcock from the old radiator and then mount the radiator. The new cooling hoses are needed for the different inlet and outlet positions. The right tranny cooler line needs to be cut and a new longer piece made (you could use a section of hose and a couple of hose clamps). You also need to make a couple of loops from thin metal to go under 2 of the radiator bolts to hold the overflow tube. When the weather warms up I will look for a overflow tank that is can be bolted in, the top tank isn't very large.

Paul

If that was my web page, you're welcome. I put up a page describing my experience with this swap, where I had to bend the mounting ears to clear an aftermarket flex-fan. I'm glad to hear it cleared your original fan with no trouble - I've got an OE seven-blade fan I've been meaning to try myself and see if it improves clearance.

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"Mad Scientist" Matt Cramer
'66 Dart - turbocharged 225
My blog - Mad Scientist Matt's Lair

Or salvage your top and bottom tanks and have a new core made.

That was your page Matt! A good tip too. I'm using a OE 7 blade fan with the original spacer and bolts from the 4 blade fan. Car has been that way for years, it clears both the stock radiator and the new one.

Paul

Put in a new aluminum rad!! Thats what I did

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Hellbent Rods & Custom fabs

What's the price difference on a Volare/Aspen radiator vs an aluminum radiator for a narrow-body Valiant?

just guessing here, but I would say more than its worth for your application. If your engine is warmed it will be putting out more heat and would benefit from the extra $150-200 CDN invested in an aluminum core, but if it's stock a regular rad will do fine. If it's a recore you might want to hunt a bit and make sure your rad guy is confident with those rads because theyre a funny rad to build. Not as easy as it looks.

I picked up a spare from a local JY from a 78 volare with a 318 auto, it was brand new and had the bung for the thermostatic valve thingy, i paid $50 CDN

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I've been calling it as i see it for my entire life and that's not about to change. Take it or leave it.

mind me asking what you paid and what the application/brand name was?

I'll never need the aluminum rad but thats not to say I wouldnt want it

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I've been calling it as i see it for my entire life and that's not about to change. Take it or leave it.

I got it through Summit for about $180. Its a griffin circle track radiator. They dont come with mounting brackets, so I made my own. Looks and works great

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Hellbent Rods & Custom fabs

Good info here.

I've used the Griffin rad that 66dart suggested, and it works well, but was a bit of a pain to mount as he said.

I found another place with a heavier duty radiator with much better mounting brackets on the tanks. Still not a bolt-in, but much easier.

www.afcoracing.com

I used the 80100N ($180) and easily bolted it to my stock radiator support with 1/4" bolts and 1/2" aluminum tubing spacers. You will need slightly modified or universal-type (bendable) radiator hoses.

The cooling on these is WAY better than even a factory 3 core radiator.

Cheers,

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

do they still keep the engine at proper operating temperature, or do they overcool?

Id be worried about losing thermal efficiency if I put a huge superefficient rad in my car and had the thermostat pumping open and shut like crazy to keep the engine warm...

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I've been calling it as i see it for my entire life and that's not about to change. Take it or leave it.

Remember-Heat is the enemy. My operating temp is around 160. And I admit, that on cold days I have a hard time getting the heater warm.
BUT, who cares about proper this and proper that... It LOOKS super cool

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Hellbent Rods & Custom fabs

actually, i disagree, if the engine operates for extended periods BELOW operating temperature then phosphoric acid and condensation that accumulate during start-up are never allowed to boil out of the engine oil, which results in corrosion of internal engine components. Also, thermal efficiency of the engine is reduced, which translates to increased fuel consumption and decreased horsepower. I think 160 F is a little on the low side. But probably not enough to be a big concern.

wait, phosphoric acid? Yes, it's a byproduct of a chemical reaction that takes place inside the engine, not exactly sure of the causes, but it involves the super rich blowby gases and the condensation that occurs because the cold engine parts are sucking the heat out from the combustion chamber.

remember, eight cylinder rads in cars and trucks are generally larger than their 6 and 4 cyl counterparts, they are sized differently for more than mere cost and space concerns.

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I've been calling it as i see it for my entire life and that's not about to change. Take it or leave it.

A certain amount of heat is very good, actually. Ideally, your thermostat regulates engine temperature - that is its job.

You want the engine to run at least at 180F since engine wear is worse below that. I usually run a 195F stat in my cars since I believe they run better there and engine wear is still better there. Most new cars run at 200F or higher.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988