So considering that money is tight , I decided to use the already built 170 I have for my 60 Valiant and am already set to build a screamer instead of a torquer so while I am at the shop today getting ready to set it on the stand I happen to notice that the crank is NOT DRILLED for a pilot bushing for a manual trans!! and a automatic is not an option for me.
Now its time to drop back and regroup.I need a cold beer or twelve.
HypertValiant

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1960 Hyper-Pac Valiant(rolling test-bed)
1963 Valiant V2OO(Son's summer project,- he just turned 15 )
1972 Valiant 4dr(Daughter Kelly's repair in progress)
1974 Valiant (v8) daughter Kelly's work in progress

I completely identify. As long as the machine belongs to someone else I am all business. But when it is in my OWN backyard... I lose it.

Be strong!

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I've been calling it as i see it for my entire life and that's not about to change. Take it or leave it.

Hyper,

This is not a problem. Is it a big-hub crank or small? In any case, MP sells a pilot bearing to press into the automatic hub hole and it eliminates need for a pilot bushing hole. They are made for the big hub (post 67) cranks, BUT you can just have the shop get one and turn it down to fit your crank if it's small hub. Call Mancini Racing or similar to get one.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Lou,mine is a small hub but it doesnt seem to have near enough depth,do I have to cut the input shaft on my trans .Thanks
HyperValiant

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1960 Hyper-Pac Valiant(rolling test-bed)
1963 Valiant V2OO(Son's summer project,- he just turned 15 )
1972 Valiant 4dr(Daughter Kelly's repair in progress)
1974 Valiant (v8) daughter Kelly's work in progress

From what I understand, you shouldn't need to, but I've never done it.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

that pilot bearing# for the crank hub is 53009180ab available at any mopar dealer and it retails in the neighbourhood of $12.00 . lou, thanks for saying that the bearing fits the /6 crank because that was my next question to you.

--chad

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74 swinger slant 6, the slowest, most fun car i have ever owned.

I will attempt to read people's minds as deeply as I can.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Is that the bearing and adapter or just the bearing??I just went to Mancinis website and couldnt find anything.I remember reading somthing about this in one of my Mopar mags awhile back but cant put myhands on that issue right now.Thanks everyone.
HyperValiant

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1960 Hyper-Pac Valiant(rolling test-bed)
1963 Valiant V2OO(Son's summer project,- he just turned 15 )
1972 Valiant 4dr(Daughter Kelly's repair in progress)
1974 Valiant (v8) daughter Kelly's work in progress

It is a roller bearing in a housing that will fit the crank hub. That's all you need. I would plop the bellhousing and trans on there before you press the bearing in to see if the depth will work OK.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

right lou, you have to make sure that the crank is drilled far enough to accept the trans input shaft. but the beauty of this bearing setup is that if your crank isnt drilled far enough, you can meatball it a bit and drill it yourself. you are mimicing the factory hole that should be there but you dont have to be percise as the bearing locates on the tourqe converter hub, not farther in the crank as the factory bronze bushing does. i have done this on a couple of v-8 cars and it works great. will most likely have to do it on the slant 6 car when i convert it to a stick too.

--chad

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74 swinger slant 6, the slowest, most fun car i have ever owned.

Thanks everyone,Ill call my local dealer somtime today.Thanks again.
HyperValiant

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1960 Hyper-Pac Valiant(rolling test-bed)
1963 Valiant V2OO(Son's summer project,- he just turned 15 )
1972 Valiant 4dr(Daughter Kelly's repair in progress)
1974 Valiant (v8) daughter Kelly's work in progress

Okay,I went to my dealer today and picked up the bearing and now I have a couple more ???1) which side goes towards the crank the beveled side or the stepped side2) where do I find a drill bit that bigand how hard is it going to be to drill the crank(its a forged crank)3) How much clearance should I have between the end of the trans input and the bottom of the hole in the crank.Thanks in advance.
HyperValiant

_________________
1960 Hyper-Pac Valiant(rolling test-bed)
1963 Valiant V2OO(Son's summer project,- he just turned 15 )
1972 Valiant 4dr(Daughter Kelly's repair in progress)
1974 Valiant (v8) daughter Kelly's work in progress

I can help you on that one; a drill isnt going to work. Use a die grinder with a carbide burr. I had my pilot hole deepened with one and it cut well. Just use safety glasses whatever you do. I'm serious, Ive gotten those tiny steel slivers in my eye before and they mean a trip to the hospital and a very unpleasant extraction. Be safe!

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I've been calling it as i see it for my entire life and that's not about to change. Take it or leave it.

Is removing the crank not an option? You know, boring out the back in a lathe is about a 15 min job. That would be the proper way to do it.

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'66 Cuda 225/4spd
'66 Dart GT convertible 225/auto
'64 Dart GT 340/4spd

I agree. That's the way we did it, though setup time was quite a bit longer than that. If all you are looking to increase is its depth, however, you may get away with buzzing it where it sits with a die grinder. How deeper do you need it?

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I've been calling it as i see it for my entire life and that's not about to change. Take it or leave it.