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Gauge problems
https://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=8480		 Page 1 of 1
Author:  JohnnyDees [ Thu Feb 19, 2004 7:08 pm ]
Post subject:  Gauge problems
I tested my gauges out of the car with batteries they were OK. When I installed the cluster the fuel gauge pegged. I removed the cluster and ran 12v to volt limiter and the fuel gauge pegged again. I tried testing the limiter it does oscillate. Analog it looked like between 2 and 4 volts digital it bounced all over. Could this be the limiter? The temp gauge stays all the way down. Also can my 66 limiter be converted to electronic? It doesnt look like the one in the article?
Author:  Seis Inclinado [ Fri Feb 20, 2004 8:19 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Gauge problems
Quote:
I tested my gauges out of the car with batteries they were OK. When I installed the cluster the fuel gauge pegged. I removed the cluster and ran 12v to volt limiter and the fuel gauge pegged again. I tried testing the limiter it does oscillate. Analog it looked like between 2 and 4 volts digital it bounced all over. Could this be the limiter? The temp gauge stays all the way down. Also can my 66 limiter be converted to electronic? It doesnt look like the one in the article?
Your limiter seems to be ok. It provides 12 volt pulses!! 12v-0v-12v-0v-12v-0v-12v-0v all day long at a rate of probably 60-80 times per minute!The pointer on your volt meter does not have time to reach the 12v mark between pulses. Sometimes the contacts in the limiter stick sending 12v and temporarily making the gauges read high and if sticking long enough heater in it will burn out and send 12v to the gauges all the time eventually burning them out too.

If your gauge pegs at full is an indication that it is still in good shape.(do not let stay pegged more than a few seconds) Pegging at full may indicate a short somewhere in the wiring from the tank to the cluster or at the cluster itself.

Check for shorts and grounds and see if you can locate your trouble.
Author:  JohnnyDees [ Sun Feb 22, 2004 3:50 pm ]
Post subject: 
What I dont understand is it will peg wether the wiring is hooked up or not. As long as 12v is going to the limiter. Question if Im testing can I hook a 12v wire to IGN. on the limiter when its still mounted and then run a ground wire back to the same 12v battery from the ground terminal of the limiter?
Author:  steponmebbbboom [ Sun Feb 22, 2004 4:14 pm ]
Post subject: 
The fuel sender controls the GROUND side of the gauge. So yes, if you hook 12V to the gauge it will peg. If the sender wire is shorted to the frame somewhere, again the gauge will peg.
Author:  JohnnyDees [ Sun Feb 22, 2004 5:00 pm ]
Post subject: 
If I unhook the sender wire with power to the limiter the gauge still pegs.
Author:  Seis Inclinado [ Sun Feb 22, 2004 6:28 pm ]
Post subject:  Gauge Problems
I don't know what type of IVR your car has; integrated within the gauge or external.
if it is like the one in the next pic here is how it should be wired:
Image

1.-The left most prong is ground, is attached directly to the back of the case and goes to the tank ground and comes back to one side of the gauge through your cluster.
2.-The middle one is marked IGN and is the one that should be getting 12V from the battery with ignition on.
3.-The prong at the right end of the case is marked control, it is the IVR's output 12v-0v-12v-0v and goes to the other side of the gauge, again through the cluster.

So if your gauge pegs with the ground wire removed from the tank, you may have this wire in contact with ground somewhere or a short in the cluster itself.

Take a closer look at where these prongs attach to your cluster and follow the tracers and see if one is somehow connected or shorted with an adjacent trace. If no apparent shorts here, follow wire to the back until you find where it contacts the body.

Aynone else with a different way of finding this possible short...?
Author:  JohnnyDees [ Sun Feb 22, 2004 7:38 pm ]
Post subject: 
Thanks but I cant see the pic. I do have an external limiter. One prong attached to the case. one marked ignition and one unmarked.
Author:  Seis Inclinado [ Sun Feb 22, 2004 10:49 pm ]
Post subject:  Gauge Problems
Quote:
Thanks but I cant see the pic. I do have an external limiter. One prong attached to the case. one marked ignition and one unmarked.
Hhmmm...Photo island is acting up again...
Ok it's the "normal of today's limiter". Then instructions detailed in my previous post apply.
What car is it?

If you want to further test your limiter it can be done with an instrument light bulb...still in its socket.
Connect one terminal of the socket to the output prong, the one unmarked on your IVR, ant he other terminal to the negative or ground "to the case" prong.

Apply positive 12v to the IGN prong and ground negative 12v to the "case" prong.
Now, your light bulb will light up, remain lit for a few seconds and go off and on at a rate of at least once per second. I so your IVR is definitely ok.
IVR from another source:
Image
Author:  JohnnyDees [ Thu Mar 04, 2004 9:03 am ]
Post subject: 
Thanks for all the help. It ended up being the brass pin for the gauge ground was barely touching the case. Giving ground only part of the time. Found it while pressing on the pins for continuity test.
Author:  Rembrant [ Sat Mar 27, 2004 12:27 pm ]
Post subject:  More fuel gauge questions
I have 1965 Valiant and the fuel gauge is stuck on empty. I read the article on replacing the voltage regulator and it sounded worth a try. Well I got my cluster removed from the vehicle and it looks like it already has the newer regulator in it. It plugs into the back of the cluster. This makes me think I may have a newer year cluster than the vehicle is. How do I tell for sure which cluster I have?
Author:  67 LAWNDART [ Sun Mar 28, 2004 4:05 pm ]
Post subject:  viin plate will show the year
look at johnnydees last entry closely. There is a plug that connects onto the back of your instrument panel. When most people force their hand into a tight spot, like that one is, they will grab onto anything to disconnect something electrical. This is not a good thing, as it usually results in pulling the small connector pins back inside the connector housing. That prevents a solid connection, and, walah, a bad connection.
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