When I had the driver front jacked up, the horn doesn't work but when off the jack it works fine. I guess I can not use the horn when going up hill.

Mike

This one is pretty simple, when you had the driver side jacked up the electricity flowed to fast toward the horn and caused a horn over flow. MOPARS are known for that. Thanks Possum Parker









Hell Hath No Wrath Than A Possum Scorned

Hm, do you have a regular liquid lead acid battery? If the liquid gets displaced enough it may not be touching one of the plates... Check to see if your lights or anything else electric doesn't work when you jack the car up from the same point.

Everything else electrical still worked and I cranked the engine up that way. Oh well, we don't have any hills in west Texas so if I ever go anywhere else, I just can't use the horn when driving uphill.

Mike

It might not be the tilt angle. It may be that your horn isn't grounding well sitting level, and when jacked up, the twist causes it to lose it's ground altogether.

Roger

DING DING DING!!!

Lead acid battery plates are completely immersed in electrolyte. Unless theyre upside down and all the electrolyte drains out, they will still provide energy. Find the horn, remove it, file down the mounting point on the frame and coat the bare metal with dielectric grease, and reinstall it. If the problem persists, pull out the voltmeter or test light and start checking for voltage at the relay and horn wire. Clean all connections as you go. You may have a rotted wire terminal that loses continuity when the body flexes. Itll be easy to spot if you look at the right wires.

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I've been calling it as i see it for my entire life and that's not about to change. Take it or leave it.

OBOYOBOYOBOY!!!! Step says I won the cookie!

Roger

If you have enough body flex to where its affecting the area where the horn is mounted, I'd be checking all the welds on the car first before making sure the electronics work

No hills? Ok, just don't take it off the Caprock - You'll never get home!

But seriously, I'd try grounding the horn with a jumper.

On my 1975 Valiant the front and bottom edges of that inner fender/splash shield was never spot welded to the rest of its mating parts at the factory. The car lived that way until it went to the junk yard from rust. Go figure............

I thought I had found it because the horn is attached to the battery box and the bolts holding the box to the car were loose. I cleaned everything and tightened it down. I also cleaned every ground. However, when the front end is jacked up (either side) the horn will not work but it works if the back is jacked up. I am also having weird things happen with the turn signals. All of this worked fine until I reassembled the dash. I have pulled it out again but find no problem. Jumpering various wires and wiggling them does no good either. I will try a new turn signal switch. The headlight switch is new but it could be defective too...or something is blowing it. I hate electrical problems because they seem to take forever to find.

I'd check the horn relay, most likely it has a loose connection inside that only comes apart when the front of the car is elevated. For under ten dollars you could pick one up at most parts stores.

You might have grounded something during the dash reassembly and it shorted when the battery was reconnected. Check for pinched or chafed wires in the headlight and turn signal wiring. You may have to pull the dash apart again to fix the headlights/turn signals.

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Erik T.
1974 Dodge Dart Swinger - 225, A904, 8 1/4, B5 Blue w/ White Vinyl
1982 Chrysler Cordoba - 318 Lean Burn, A999, 7 1/4, VC4 Glacier Blue w/ Dark Blue Vinyl

Actually the horn relay is new...of course, that doesn't mean it's defective. I am thinking maybe about establishing other groand connections and see if it also fixes the signals.

That's a lot of body language to decipher. I'm all confused and feeling very small!

_________________
I've been calling it as i see it for my entire life and that's not about to change. Take it or leave it.