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Heatriser
https://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=8999		 Page 1 of 1
Author:  ValiantBoy1 [ Sat Apr 10, 2004 2:28 pm ]
Post subject:  Heatriser
1970 Plymouth Valiant.. 225ci 1 bbl Holley 1920..


How would i be able to tell if my heatriser does not work?

What is the purpose of the heatriser?

Where can i purchase a NEW Exhaust Manifold for a 225 Six w/ 1bbl carb?


When i step on the gas pedal, a clicking occurs as the car accelerates.. i am thinking it is the heat riser, because i searched for the sound, and it sounded like it was coming from either the heatriser or some where in that location? :)

In neutral, if i rev the engine, the clicking does not occur, only in drive.
Author:  Michael_Cuda [ Sat Apr 10, 2004 4:19 pm ]
Post subject: 
The Heat riser supplys heat to intake when its cold as the car warms up the heat riser should come completely open.

if its not making the noise in park I doubt that its the heat riser. sounds like it might be an exhaust leak, maybe?

When your car is cold, look at your exhaust manifold just below where all the lines collect there will be round weight type thing, you should be able to switch it counter counter clockwise about 1/3rd of a turn. it should be free moving but spring loaded this is so when you step on the gas when its cold the heat riser doesn't block the exhaust, the valve just moves out of the way. after you have done this warm the car up and check and make sure the movement is still there. after its warmed up it should have naturally move to the full open position (Counter Clockwise) but make sure its still free. If it did not move by its self or free, its locking up and it needs to be cleaned with heat riser cleaner. I also put hi-temp axel grease on the shaft of mine and after a while it worked its way in and isn't stuck anymore.
Author:  ShivaDart [ Sat Apr 10, 2004 10:20 pm ]
Post subject: 
clicking sounds is unlikely to be from the heat riser( I can't think of how it would do this, but check the spring shape in case, it should be coiled around the round pieces shaft minus one piece that curls back to catch on a little bar). The sound would more likely to be exhaust or valves. I've also read a timing chain can do that but haven't seen it personally.
Author:  Michael_Cuda [ Sat Apr 10, 2004 11:29 pm ]
Post subject: 
The 67(I think) and before manifolds do not have the big round weight, there is a peice of rubber or something else as a stop and when that rots off and it can make a clicking noise letting off the gas. However the noise would be there in park when letting off the gas.
Author:  ValiantBoy1 [ Sun Apr 11, 2004 10:44 am ]
Post subject:  Valves?
If i do have an exhaust leak, how would i go about checking that?
Author:  ShivaDart [ Sun Apr 11, 2004 8:21 pm ]
Post subject: 
Look closely at your manifolds to see any cracks, that's how I did it. The crack woul most likely be on the intake manifold. I think a couple of other people have some sort of trick where you spray something on but most likely you could see the crack with close examination. I think the spray trick thing is good if your manifolds are warped and the leak is coming from where the engine and the manifolds meet, but I can't remember what they sprayed on.
Author:  Michael_Cuda [ Mon Apr 12, 2004 1:11 am ]
Post subject: 
The spray trick is for detecting vacuum leaks I believe.
Author:  Pierre [ Mon Apr 12, 2004 2:44 am ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
The spray trick is for detecting vacuum leaks I believe.
It works both ways really. If you use a bit of water for example, it will turn into steam from all the heat and will escape the cracks. You'll see white puffs of smoke, like water boiling out of a teakettle.

Be careful with how much water you put down the carb... you only need a drop or two, or even mist it with a sprayer. Motor oil would be a safer choice, and it would burn black.
Author:  ValiantBoy1 [ Mon Apr 12, 2004 3:17 am ]
Post subject:  checked it
I checked for the exhaust leak using tranny fluid.. no leaks.. most of it came out of the tail pipe! (hell of a lot of smoke~!)

i think it's the valves, i know to adjust them it is .10 for the intake and .20 for the exhuast.. but how do i tell which is intake and which is exhaust? Also.. where do i place the gauge in order to adjust them?

Thanks guys!
Author:  Michael_Cuda [ Mon Apr 12, 2004 7:02 am ]
Post subject: 
its easy to tell which is exhuast and intake, just look at the runners.. if the valve is in front of an exhaust runner then its a exhaust valve...

But to be exact reading from front to back(or the other way around) the order is(I = intake / E =Exhaust): E - I - E - I - E - I - I - E - I - E - I - E

Make sure you do the adjustment while the engine is hot(full operating temp)..

Some people do adjust the valves by moving the crank while the engine is off. However the standard method is to do it while the engine is running.
How you do the feel is you stick the feeler gauge between the rocker arm and the valve tip. Adjusting is all about feel, so I suggest you go threw a few valves feeling. YOu should start to realize what is about right. the other thing that takes some getting used to is working with the engine running... sense the rockers will be moving its easier to learn to move with them. You will need a 3/8in wrench I believe, and do yourself a favor and go buy a new valve cover gasket unless your have taken you have replaced it recently...
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