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PostPosted: Sun Apr 11, 2004 4:49 pm 
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EFI Slant 6

Joined: Wed Feb 26, 2003 6:14 pm
Posts: 281
Location: Houston ,Tx.
Car Model: '63 Dart GT Convertible
The title of this thread about says it all. The brake lines on my 63 Dart are pretty solidly stuck. Would like to get the other two off without destroying them as I have done with the first one. Oh yeah, I am working at the junction block.


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 11, 2004 7:07 pm 
Try heating them up. Do not apply heat to the tube make sure you heat the fitting. On that old of a car I would not even think about touching any of the hard lines without the probability of having to replace em. If you insist on trying to get yours loose, once you get the fitting cherry, work back and forth in very small increments don't think its gonna just unscrew magically like a new one would. Funny how rust works, it gets like a slow
welding process, the way the fittings freeze to the line.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Apr 11, 2004 8:59 pm 
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Joined: Sat Feb 08, 2003 2:37 pm
Posts: 4194
Location: CA
Car Model:
Make sure your using flare end wrenches! They make a world of a difference. I discoverd myself that brake line fittings seem to be very soft and often get wedged in there quite well because the threads are flared as well. A standard open end wrench just won't cut it, even if the lines are new. I ruined more then one fitting on my caliper lines and discoverd flare end wrenches the hard way.

Side note, PB Blaster is the best penetrating fluid I have used.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Apr 12, 2004 5:19 am 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Tue Mar 11, 2003 5:09 am
Posts: 1167
Location: Troy, Texas
Car Model:
Ditto on the PB Blaster.

Jerry

_________________
There's a difference between ignorance and stupidity.
Ignorance is not knowing any better.
Stupidity is knowing, yet doing it anyway.


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 Post subject: kroil?
PostPosted: Mon Apr 12, 2004 5:20 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Joined: Tue May 06, 2003 5:53 am
Posts: 750
Location: Crestline, CA
Car Model:
My Stepdad swears by Kroll. Eastwood sells it, I believe.

Greg


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Apr 12, 2004 7:34 pm 
I just did a rear end swap on a 91 Wrangler today. (had the day off ---my son's last day of Easter break) Wound up having to replace the body line that supplies fluid to the back brakes cuz it busted even as much spraying and heating and working back and forth I did. That is only 13 years old! Funny, though, how often I get an older car that the boss don't even want me to touch for fear that everything will bust off and it comes apart like it was built yesterday and a 3 year old car that requires every nut and bolt be heated with the torch before it will budge.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Apr 13, 2004 9:38 am 
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Joined: Tue Jan 14, 2003 2:37 pm
Posts: 605
Location: Fairbanks, AK
Car Model:
Kroil is worth every penny. I have never encontered a frozen bolt/nut the stuff couldn't get off.

PB Blaster has also treated me well, and is more readily available and cheaper. But if you can find the Kroil, get it.

-S/6


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Apr 26, 2004 7:04 pm 
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Board Sponsor & Contributor

Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 5:39 pm
Posts: 24786
Location: North America
Car Model:
I've heard/read about Kroil for years, but only recently (the other day) first got a chance to try it.

Holy shatz. This stuff is *amazing*! Definitely get it. It can be had directly from the manufacturer, Kano Labs.


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