I'm in the middle of a three-on-tree to 833-OD swap in my 73' Dart /6 and now that I have the Dart flywheel off I'm wondering whether to use it or the flywheel from the donor car (76' Scamp), or if it matters? They are not the same part # and the Scamp flywheel from the 833-OD is heavier with and additional metal rib on the motor side, but seems to bolt up fine. If I use the Scamp flywheel it will need a new starter gear but the Dart flywheel gear is ok, and I plan to have whichever flywheel I use resurfaced in any event. Also, is it necessary to replace the pilot bushing, which from all appearances LOOKS ok, and if so what's involved in that? The service manual of course mentions a special tool but I'm inclined not to replace the bushing unless it's always a good idea to do so. Thanks in advance for your help.

Steve

I'd stick with the lighter one. It'll rev quicker, and you don't have to waste money changing the ring.

Check the ID of the bushing if possible to determine the wear. Look for grooves or low spots.

Bushings tend to last a while, but it depends on how they're driven (waiting at lights with clutch disengaged in gear makes them work harder). Do you have a spare input shaft you can test fit?

The special tool works great but if you don't have one, you can find a snug fitting dowel or solid rod, pack the cavity with grease, then force the dowel in. The grease usually pushes the bushing out as it gets displaced. Usually.

Thanks for your reply six, and I take it then no good reason to use the heavier flywheel from the 833-OD car, and no ill effects that you know of using the 3 speed flywheel with a new 10" 'HD' Borg & Beck clutch assy and the 833-OD (my old clutch is the standard 9.25" assy)? I'll inspect the pilot bushing closer and if I decide to replace it I'll try the "force it out with grease and dowel method", thanks for the tip.

Steve

Your stock flywheel should be fine, you'll have to have it surfaced if you use the heavier clutch due to the wear pattern on the face. I would only use a heavy fly wheel if I were worried about having good launches off the starting line at high revs. Keep the flywheel as a spare, depending on how many resurfaces you get out of your current flywheel, it might be cheaper later to recondition this spare one than plunk $120 for a new flywheel.

You can also get a pilot bushing remover that looks like an inverted 3 finger claw in case your bushing was as stubborn as some of the ones i've removed and the grease method didn't work. Make sure to get an oilite bushing not a cast iron one, or you may just want to get one of the newer bearing style bushings that sits in the crank hub.

-D.Idiot

Some of the other posts here talk about heavy duty clutches and flywheel/clutch issues; they make good reading. Basically, if the clutch assembly fits the flywheel, and doesn't hit the inside of the bellhousing, the only other thing that has given trouble is the linkage can't handle really stiff clutches without reinforcement, although that mostly affects early cars.
Sounds like you're ready to rock!

Thanks D and six, I'm not too worried about high rpm launch so it sounds like the lighter three speed flywheel is the best choice, resurfaced of course. And the clutch assy I'm using is the best "stock" clutch suggested in this forum (10" B & B "HD") so I'm not expecting an overly stiff pedal. The pilot bushing I bought is a Federal Mogul PB-286 but I'm not sure if it's cast iron or oilite? D, can you suggest a name brand or parts jobber for the "bearing style" pilot bushing you suggest? Thanks again for your help.

Steve

Some one here is using one, but I forget who...I'll be looking into that option on my next rebuild, I think Mopar performance may have them.
When I installed mine Napa gave me one they said was 'good', I installed it and it bound to the input shaft intermittently. I pulled it out and put a magnet on it, it stuck (iron), I went to a mom and pop place north of town and they gave me one that was copper/slightly silver colored, and the magnet didn't stick to it. Soaked in a cup of 10-30W for a day then installed it, haven't had a problem since...

Some other 'fun' things to do while you're under there...

After you put the bearing in, take a small amount of grease on your fingertip (about a nickel sized dollup) and smear it in the bearing hole to keep things lubed before you put the assembly together.

If you just have your 3 speed hanging out, pull the front retainer off of you new boat anchor and pull out the input shaft... clean it up and use it when aligning your new clutch disk and housing, it will be more accurate than the plastic POS that comes in the clutch kits now..... (I use a spare A-833OD input shaft and have never had to 'reinstall' the clutch to get things to 'jive'....

best of luck to you,

-D.Idiot

Boat anchor indeed, and making a mess in the back of my PU, I should have drained it better! The input shaft for an alignment tool is a good idea, I just knew that grungy chunk of iron was good for something. Come to think of it the pilot bushing in there now has a copper look to it so I may leave well enough alone if it appears to be sound. Thanks D.

Flywheels:
Check your OE unit... if it's for a 9.25 or 9.5" clutch it should have 124 teeth. This may or may not work with the OD bellhousing-- if you're using one. The starter won't engage the teeth because the dia. is too small.
On the 833/OD/Scamp unit, check its tooth count and dia. if you're using a stock bell it may not fit underneath because it's too big and the starter can't engage the teeth on the ring.

Either way think system and you should be fine.

On the pilot bearing get the MP roller unit. Call up your friendly neighborhood dodge dealer and ask for a pilot bearing for a magnum powered dakota #P4876056 it's around 9bux.

Sorry i couldn't be of more help but my bell/flywheel apps have all been +2 cyls. But best of luck!

-JYH
64 Dart 4gear crashbox

The three-speed mid-70's model bellhousing was 'purpose fit' it only accepts a 3 speed unit (tranny to bellbousing pattern), some 4 speed bellhousings were 'swapped' in during this time (dual bolt pattern)..but he wouldn't be able to use the A-833OD on that housing since the bearing retainer grew from 4.8" in 1974 (direct box), to 5.125" on the OD units in 1975 model year... so he has to use the A-833OD bellhousing from the donor car...all the 1968-1987 flywheels are compatible with the under standing that some cars and trucks got the 'heavy' one with the big cast 'ring/rib' on the crank side of the flywheel, and some trucks got the low starter mount unusual bellhousing for the the HD direct tranny box and the 11" clutch...this flywheel will not mount in any of the other bellhousings (it's a big monster).

He's good to go if he pulled everything whole sale out of the donor car.
Good info on the roller bearing, thanks.

-D.idiot

Yup, the 76' Scamp 833-OD car donated everything since it was a functioning car before I salvaged it so I'm good to go two times over with a flywheel to spare. Thanks hero for the pilot bearing info.

DIdiot, where did you get the "inverted three fingered claw" like special tool for pilot bushing removal if you recall? I tried the "force it out with grease" method using my three speed input shaft but no luck, plus asking several parts jobbers for a removal tool so far has resulted in that far off clueless look so I'm still searching for such a tool, and/or trying to figure out if I can make one and how. Thanks.

Steve

Is there a tranny shop or friendly mechanic around you can beg a loan from? Most shops should have the tool, and it's expensive to buy for a single use.

_________________
O==\=/==O

"A mechanic is Somebody."
- Jim Preston

I got mine from harbor freight fro $20 "Pilot Bushing Removal Tool". And used it once, I think Autozone 'rents' these also. I originally wanted to get one at Sears or another domestic store, but when the tools clerk can't answer the question, and then can't find it in the catalog....


-D.Idiot

Thanks again six and D. I'll try to the friendly mechanic approach then probably Harbor Freight where I buy most of my tools anyway, and it wouldn't be the first or last time I've used a tool once and may never again, such are the perils of DIY.