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PostPosted: Mon May 17, 2004 9:06 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Joined: Mon Nov 17, 2003 8:51 pm
Posts: 701
Location: Marion.Va
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As some of yall might remember ,Im building a Hyperpac 170 for my 60 Valiant. The short block had already been rebiult but with low compression .030 over pistons(.073 in the hole).With help received here,I did the math and realized that I needed to remove .130 from my cylinder head to reach my 9.5 to 1 compression ratio goal(I realize that this is a rather unorthadox combo).
Im running a Comp Cams 264s with .440 lift , so I decided to check my valve to piston clearance and came up with .160 clearance. Is this enough??I plan to spin this engine to 6000-6500 rpm.I also plan on changing to 340 valve springs after cam break in.
Also ,if all of this sounds like a go,what should I put on the threads of my head bolts before the final torqueing?
Thanks for all of the help so far and thanks in advance for this question.
HyperValiant

_________________
1960 Hyper-Pac Valiant(rolling test-bed)
1963 Valiant V2OO(Son's summer project,- he just turned 15 :-) )
1972 Valiant 4dr(Daughter Kelly's repair in progress)
1974 Valiant (v8) daughter Kelly's work in progress


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PostPosted: Tue May 18, 2004 5:01 am 
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SL6 Racer & Moderator
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Joined: Sat Oct 19, 2002 12:06 pm
Posts: 8979
Location: Silver Springs, Fl.
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If your clearance is .160 after milling the head, you'r fine. If the .160 is with the unmilled head, you would only have .030 clearence, after milling the head .130. Recommended valve to piston clearence is .080-.100. I have run as close as .050, but would not go any less the that. Even at .050, when I pulled the head, there were marks on the pistons from the valves.
You can install the 340 valve springs, during initial build. They are not that stiff, and will not hurt the cam, during breakin.
Just put some oil on the head bolt threads, and under the head of the bolt. It is not required, but I like to use hardened washers, under the head bolts, especially if the head has been milled a lot. Don't forget to run a tap down the head bolt holes, to clean the threads.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225


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PostPosted: Tue May 18, 2004 5:00 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Joined: Mon Nov 17, 2003 8:51 pm
Posts: 701
Location: Marion.Va
Car Model:
Thanks Charlie.that measurement is on the milled head so I should be be ready to assemble.
HyperValiant

_________________
1960 Hyper-Pac Valiant(rolling test-bed)
1963 Valiant V2OO(Son's summer project,- he just turned 15 :-) )
1972 Valiant 4dr(Daughter Kelly's repair in progress)
1974 Valiant (v8) daughter Kelly's work in progress


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PostPosted: Tue May 18, 2004 7:11 pm 
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SL6 Racer & Moderator
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Joined: Sat Oct 19, 2002 12:06 pm
Posts: 8979
Location: Silver Springs, Fl.
Car Model:
Sounds like you will be good to go. Think you will make the race at Bristol? The more slants the better. There are a few of us that can't make it this year.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225


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PostPosted: Fri May 21, 2004 6:38 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Joined: Mon Nov 17, 2003 8:51 pm
Posts: 701
Location: Marion.Va
Car Model:
Charlie,
Unfortunately,I wont be able to make Bristol this year as the Val is nowhere near complete plus the local econamy has took a dive and finacially just wont be able to do it which sucks as my old truck is really running good,was hopin for 18's this year.I WILL be there with the Val next year though.
Once again ,thanks for all the help and info.
HyperValiant

_________________
1960 Hyper-Pac Valiant(rolling test-bed)
1963 Valiant V2OO(Son's summer project,- he just turned 15 :-) )
1972 Valiant 4dr(Daughter Kelly's repair in progress)
1974 Valiant (v8) daughter Kelly's work in progress


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