I think I've read a couple of times, on this board, that the MP cam's like to eat teath,... So maybe a comp cam 252s is a better choice for you?
Here's the sheet from their online catalog (look @ the bottom):
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| Oil pressure fall down @ 4500 rpm highway run https://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=9443 |
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| Author: | lgu32 [ Sun May 30, 2004 2:39 am ] |
| Post subject: | Oil pressure fall down @ 4500 rpm highway run |
I quess I have destroyed my first slant six since 1981 when I bought my 1st. Of course they have had some minor and major problems, but this was the 1st which need to tow away. I was driving at highway, passing some slow (!!) cars. I had some 4500 rpm there when the red light come on without warning. I lift the pedal asap, turn right to the ramp (lucky me there was one), shifted to neutral, left it idling until rolled to the bus stop. Oil level was ok. After some cool down a test start. No terrible noise, but still missing the oil pressure. It was a long evening to tow it with rope (200 kms!) to storage. Just now I think my Dutra Dualled big valve super six takes a little longer rest in a barn. Maybe some years, I feel just now. (S)he has been a bit difficult lately, and I'm getting tired. A typical oil pump gear failure? Any other ideas? If failed pump gear, does it mean the cam gear (and the cam) is lost at the same? |
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| Author: | 64 Convert [ Sun May 30, 2004 6:12 am ] |
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First verify it wasn't a sender or wiring problem. I've seen those wires fall off or break, or an indicator fail, far more often than a total pump failure. |
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| Author: | Doctor Dodge [ Sun May 30, 2004 8:20 am ] |
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I agree with 64 Convert, check the sending unit first, better yet, put a mechanical oil pressure gauge on it so you can get the actual pressure readings. To see if it is a pump gear failure, pull-out the distributor and look at the gears thru the hole with a light, while turning the engine with a wrench. (or by the fanbelt) DD |
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| Author: | lgu32 [ Sun May 30, 2004 10:43 pm ] |
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Thank Doc! I was thinking to pull the whole cast iron piece off to check what really happened. I've the high volume pump there and what I did saw, it is a pain to take off when the power plant lies on the K-member in an early A-body. I'll lurk to the distributor hole in my next visit to her. But next she will cool down as I have to do also. |
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| Author: | lgu32 [ Wed Jul 21, 2004 10:18 am ] |
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...joining the cam gear failure club... The reason for for red light coming on at highway has been found. The cam has lost teeths from its pump/distributor drive gear. Without mirror (a dentist will be fine) was not possible to see how is the pump gear. Shopping list: main bearings con rod bearings gasket set oil pump cam lifters gear wheel for distributor ARP bolts for con rods damper (used?) Which is the next (hotter) replacement for 244 degree MP cam? I like to add the ARP bolts for connecting rods, because running some times over 5000 rpm. Part number for them? |
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| Author: | '65 Dutch Dart [ Wed Jul 21, 2004 3:54 pm ] |
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I think I've read a couple of times, on this board, that the MP cam's like to eat teath,... So maybe a comp cam 252s is a better choice for you? Here's the sheet from their online catalog (look @ the bottom):
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| Author: | Dartvader [ Sat Jul 24, 2004 4:38 pm ] |
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I think its the black coating on the cam gear that eats mating gears. Polish it off with a wire brush in a drill and you will have longer life from distibuotr and oil pump gears. |
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| Author: | argentina-slantsixer [ Sat Jul 24, 2004 8:01 pm ] |
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will you give me the web site adress for comp cams? thanx |
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| Author: | '65 Dutch Dart [ Sun Jul 25, 2004 6:09 am ] |
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Here it is: http://www.compcams.com Then go to catalog: (Shortcut: http://www.compcams.com/Technical/CurrentCatalog) Then go to Chrysler 4 & 6 Cyl. (Shortcut: http://www.compcams.com/Technical/Curre ... /26-27.asp) |
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| Author: | argentina-slantsixer [ Sun Jul 25, 2004 7:36 am ] |
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 thankx ducht dart
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