Maybe Powell's used department will have them; if not, follow the links provided.
Sure you can, once you have all the facts. Visit here to get 'em. The short version (since that link is to a VERY long and comprehensive gasoline FAQ) is this: Higher-octane fuel contains larger amounts of additives that can cause deposits in your combustion chamber, hurting driveability and economy over the long haul. In addition, the properties that make a high-octane fuel, depending on blending, can emphasize or aggravate imperfect running conditions. Most often, this means cold starting and driveability can be negatively affected by fuel of unnecessarily high octane. Plus, you're just flushing money right out the tailpipe, money that would probably be better spent finding and fixing the cause of your low mileage or buying delicious steak dinners for yourself. There is <i>zero</i> benefit to using fuel of higher-than-required octane. None.
It's completely realistic, since many of these additives contain Chlorine, number one. Number two, there is no such a thing as a "deeper penetrating lubricant" when it comes to engine oils. The claim is a lie, a scam, a con. The marketeers who put this stuff out there on the shelf are counting on your not having all the facts, not having a chemistry degree, not really seeing how it could be useless or harmful. They're counting on your "just trying" it because their claims sound so warm 'n' fuzzy.
You don't have a choice but to use "modern gasoline formulas"—the question is which one to buy, the regular or the premium, and the answer is "regular". Zmax is not "modern technology", it's just one of many scams designed to separate you from your money. There's no such thing as a "microlube"; some marketeer came up with that pseudoscientific pretend-word to separate you from your money. Mobil-1 is excellent oil.
It's like smoking: You won't get lung cancer six months after you start, but by the time you realize you shouldn't have done it, it's too late. Likewise, Super Marvelous Amazing Hyperlube MicroXtremeTriboZmaxWonderGunk won't blow up your engine tomorrow or next month, but that doesnt' mean you're not damaging it.

Really not sure what's hard to understand here: Find and fix the problems before you start claiming "improved" mileage due to spurious gookum poured in the crankcase.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

hate to tell you this buddy...but these guys have been around the block MANY more times than you or me...their advice is very insightful, and this is the advantage of this forum- talking to people who have been there and done that...
just thought i'd add that

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My Dart
GO VOLS!
It's not rocket science, we're just splitting atoms.

Actually, I hate to admit this, but the problems /can/ show up in a few months. I had a quart dissapearing every 600 miles or so, and I thought, "What the heck, let's try hi-mile oil." The problem was immediately cured. And then 4 months later I was using a quart every 300 miles. Great excuse to do the engine rebuild though. (and never use high hi-mile crap again)

Not to add fuel to the fire of a post that should die, but Dan didn't you once post that standard mobil 1 had some additives removed from it that make it unsuitable for older cars.

I could very well be remembering wrong and since you have so many posts I couldn't find it in a search. I personally use mobil 1 in my turbo daytonas since it is the only oil I have found that doesn't cook black after 1000 miles of abuse in a turbo.

You don't have to tell me, I know and *definately* appreciate the advice and pool of experience here...

And I thought Bob's test of the Lucas oil was very interesting, although I would point out that his Schaeffer oil which he used as a control, already had it's *own* climbing additive already in it's formula. So it's not much of a control, the lesson being, a properly formulated additive designed specifically for your application might be just fine, but there is no universal all encompassing super additive for every lube situation. In that very same thread all those oil nerds go on to talk about very affective additives that are a part of all kinds of products. There were so many pages I couldn't read it all....

All I'm saying is, from an undereducated standpoint, it didn't seem like a bad thing to try, and even if it was a waste I don't think a single treatment is going to do lasting harm to my motor. I'm not far off from my next oil change and after all this, I probably *will* think twice before doing it again...

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1973 Dart Swinger Super 6 with 71k
1976 Datsun 280ZX with Mopar I-6

Not unsuitable, just less suitable than Mobil-1 Extended Life. The regular Mobil-1 formulation has had certain additives removed from it that address sliding friction (as found e.g. between camshafts and non-roller lifters). The extended-life formulation has a good dose of those additives.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

so, in your opinion, Mobil-1 Extended Life is the best stuff currently available?

do you know the going price?

-dave

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what part of "illegal" is so confusing???

Yep.
Nope...bazdids haven't made it available in Canada!

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I'm thinkin O'Reilly's is about 7 bucks a quart, but other places (like wal-mart) are usually cheaper.

Last time I bought it at walmart was $4.20/qt in a 5 quart jug but that was after one gas price surge stoped and this one started. Only place I found the 5 qt jugs was at walmart, and they are typically $0.50-$0.75/qt cheaper that way.

Every now and then theres Kragen advertisments in the sunday paper that has coupons.

I let it go 6k miles between changes once. But 15k? yikes I don't think I'm going to take that gamble.

Damn Dan i did not know you thought my redneck knowledge was any good. I have run Mobil 1 in my race car for three years and have not have a issue as others with cam gear wear. A street engine is different than a race engine but i run it in my 340 Barracuda and am convinced by it. The Dupont oil engineer told me that is the best oil for the money on a new engine or a rebuild after break in. I use 5w30 in my race engine and it has 50 pounds of oil preasure thats all i need even at 6500 rpm . Thanks Ron Parker





New Year New Gear

I use Quaker State in all of my slants. Te\hey really seem to like it, in a good way.

Behold the slant whisperer.

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82 D150-225/727
02 Dakota-3.9/5 speed
87 GMC C7000-8.2 Detroit Diesel/5+2

The funny thing is I've seen one of their gear demonstrators where the side with Lucas oil took more effort to turn than the side with ordinary oil.

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"Mad Scientist" Matt Cramer
'66 Dart - turbocharged 225
My blog - Mad Scientist Matt's Lair

When your Slant was new we stayed away from Quaker State like it was poison. It was known for being a high sludge oil that would fill the bottom of your crankcase with a thick layer of tar like goo in 30 to 40k miles. Nowadays, who knows, it might be as good as any other oil. In the 70's they were supposed to have a larger ad budget than the actual cost of the oil they shipped.

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"Former Owner" of '65 Barracuda, 225, Auto, MP 2bbl intake, MP cam, Dutra Duals. Presently Moparless.

Lucas oil additive is just motor snot, a/k/a motor honey. It thickens the oil, that's all it does, and the only reason to thicken the oil is your engine is seriously, completely worn out, burns oil even when you use the thickest grade you can buy, and you're trying to squeeze a couple hundred more miles out of it.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.