Okay, I'll see if I can get that kit that DI mentioned then. Thanks Reed.

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The old white brick

So I soaked the carb over night in the B12 stuff, and it seems to have helped quite a bit. The parts store didn't carry the B9, so had to make do. I was cleaning out some of the remaining carbon build up when I happened to turn the carb upside down, give a small smack, and out popped this:




I'm hoping this was part of the problem I was having and not some important gasket I have just destroyed.

Btw, anyone know where in the Pittsburgh area I can pick up the Borg - Warner rebuild kits, the parts store near my place only carries GF Sorenson or somesuch.

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The old white brick

Ummm...you didn't go and soak the whole carburetor in carburetor cleaner, right? You took it apart first and soaked only the metal parts...right?

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Those littlebits aren't plastic, I hope.

Yup Yup, took it apart and soaked the metal bits, and those parts came out of the big port at the base of the carb.

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The old white brick

Oh, it's probably just chips and chunks of solidified oil residue coming out of the PCV hose nipple on the base of the carb, then.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Ah, well then glad to have them out of there.

Since you asked about if I had soaked the whole carb overnight, and not just the metal bit. Can I deduce that the cleaner will in fact damage plastic and rubber parts if given a long term (12+hours) of exposure. If so, what happens if you do use this stuff in you gas tank. I know that the fuel passes trhough both rubber lines and plastic fuel filter.

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The old white brick

Yep, carb cleaner will damage polymeric and elastomeric ("plastic" and "rubber") parts. It contains active solvents significantly more aggressive than anything found in gasoline. This presents a dilemma when working with e.g. a Holley 1920: The metering block has a little nylon lever arm on it which actuates the power valve. The metering block needs to be soaked to get internally clean, but this lever arm must be carefully removed before soaking the metering block in carburetor cleaner, but after a few decades the lever arm can be quite delicate and brittle. Use a small jeweller's screwdriver to prise the lever off its hinge pin, work carefully and slowly, and don't sneeze!

Also be mindful that carb cleaner, particularly the highly aggressive yellow-brown dip-type stuff (e.g. B9 ChemDip, Tyme) will eat the protective dichromate coating right off the potmetal carburetor castings. They'll come out looking spanking, but without the protective coating they'll be much more prone to corrosion (especially with the alcohol found in many of today's gasoline formulations) that'll bring back clogged-carb problems with a vengeance.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Bought the book, and what is the P/N or a suitable replacement for the float in my carb?

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The old white brick