The other day I thought I'd calculate the gas milage my d-100 gets,just for kicks. Well,I shouldn't have done that,I found out I'm getting about 7.45 miles per gallon! This is on a bone stock slant six,with the dead lean burn still intact,and an ailing (I think) pos 6145 carb. When I drive its like that oil commercial where the cars are dragging the boat anchors.

I'm planning on doing the HEI conversion this weekend,hopefully it will wake this thing up a bit. But I have a few more questions:

-When I hook the wires to the coil,do I disconnect whatever's on there or leave it on?
-I have a holley 1920,supposedly from a mid 60's chrysler,will it need any mods to the carb linkages or will it be a bolt on deal?

Sorry for all the questions,I am new to this whole slant 6/lean burn thing. I just want to get all my ducks in a row before digging into this thing,its my only mode of transportation and I don't want to disable it for too long.

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Nick

1987 Dodge D-100(225/904) Daily Driver
1979 Dodge Ramcharger (318/727/NP208)(Under Construction)

This is the cause of your troubles.


It will, and you will get better MPG to boot. Just make sure you replace the 6145 with a non-computer controlled carb. A holley 1920 is a very good choice.
(1) The factory (-) coil wire will be removed as part of the lean burn computer wiring. The factory (+) wire must stay on the coil, since this is also the hot wire for the HEI unit.

(2) With regards to the linkage, I assume that your D100 has the cable style linkage. You should have no problems if it does. The only oddball lnkage setups out there are the 66 and earlier rod style linkage on A-bodies, and Vans (and A100 trucks), which use a pushrod style linkage.

When I swapped my 86 van from the lean burn computer to HEI, I had to make four wire connections: the (+) wire on the coil, the (-) wire on the coil, and the two leads form the distributor pickup. As I said above, the factory (+) wire stays on the coil. Since you had a lean burn computer you don't even have to worry about bridging the ballast resistor since your truck doesn't have one!

I swapped my van from the California lean burn computer with a crappy Holley 6145 carb to the HEI setup with a Carter BBD on my home-made two barrel intake manifold. The difference has been night and day. Far more power, MUCH smoother and quieter idling and runing, gas mileage has at least doubled (I'm still fine tuning the carb and haven't gotten any solid numbers yet). I recommend you leave the AIR pump hooked up since it isn't computer controlled and has no adverse effects on engine performance yet greatly improved you emissions quality.

Let us know how the swap goes!

Not to mention your catalytic convertor is much more likely to plug up if you disconnect it.

I can tell you from personal experience that disconnecting the smog/air pump is a bad idea. The folks down at Pep Boys left the belt off mine after they worked on it. I didn't fix it thinking I would get a few more HP. What I got instead was a catalytic converter that glowed a bright red after a 15 minuted highway drive. I think I hooked it back up because one of the regulars here, probably SSDan, said to leave it hooked up. It occured to me not terribly long ago that this was the cause of the incandecent cat, not specifically the rich mix coming from my carb.

One more thing,where do I hook up the vac advance hose?

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Nick

1987 Dodge D-100(225/904) Daily Driver
1979 Dodge Ramcharger (318/727/NP208)(Under Construction)

You can probably hook it to the same place the vacuum pod of the SCC hooked to.

I don't intend on disconnecting the air pump,it seems to work fine plus I probably would need it to pass emissions.

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Nick

1987 Dodge D-100(225/904) Daily Driver
1979 Dodge Ramcharger (318/727/NP208)(Under Construction)

I was wondering,if the carb (holley 1920) I'm rebuilding for it doesn't work out,would I be able to drive it for a bit with the existing carb still on it?

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Nick

1987 Dodge D-100(225/904) Daily Driver
1979 Dodge Ramcharger (318/727/NP208)(Under Construction)

Yeah, but the carburetor will default to a SUPER rich setting because it won't have the input from the computer to lean it out.

If the computer is dead,isn't it doing that anyway? Just wondering.

I was going to do the HEI thing this past weekend but I chickened out again. I noticed the throttle on the 1920 "swings" a different way than the one on the 6145. Is that a problem? Here's the link to the carb I bought/rebuilt:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... gory=34198

Is this even the correct carb that I need? I need to get this figured out pretty soon,I have an emissions test coming up,plus I don't want to drive around without an air cleaner.

(Seriously considering a V8 swap)

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Nick

1987 Dodge D-100(225/904) Daily Driver
1979 Dodge Ramcharger (318/727/NP208)(Under Construction)

Not necessaryily. If the computer is just faulty or if a sensor is bad it may be working partially. Basically it may not be in total failure default-to-rich mode, but it might still be sending the wrong signal to the carb.
This really is a very simple swap. If you are not switching to a two barrel carb you should be able to do this in under half an hour. You will thank yourself later.
That carb may not work if it has the old rod operated throttle linkage. if it is a cable operated linkage you should be fine.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Well,what I was wondering about with the carb linkage is that the carb on there now (6145),the throttle cable pulls the linkage towards the driver's fender,while the 1920 would have to have it pulled towards the pass. side. Is this right? Where can I find out what that carb originally came from?

_________________
Nick

1987 Dodge D-100(225/904) Daily Driver
1979 Dodge Ramcharger (318/727/NP208)(Under Construction)