Howdy all,

I have been studying the forum, the web and asking around about some info on the box that holds my soon to be installed edlebrock 1404 "performer series" of 500cfm. It is going onto an offenhauser 4bbl manifold. While application is a 6d d100 truck, the engine is newly built, dutra duals, etc.

First, the box says I MUSt convert fuel line to Kit 8135 with neoprene hose and kit has 5/16 and 3/8 hose. Well, I already had the parts for the forum-recommended "fuel line mod" with 5/16 SAE 30R9 hose and a 5/16 right angle adapter to fuel pump (EDELMANN 822550) and in line filter. Except the carb has a 3/8 inlet...can I remove the carb fuel inlet and replace with a 5/16 inlet...or do I have to scrap all the fine 5/16 stuff and plumb all the way back with 3/8 by buying the Eddy kit? I never used one of these carbs before so don't know how sensitive they are to inlet diam and flow through.

Ever since I began tuning slants I used a stetp in which I plugged the vacuum line to distributor with a golf tee, then later removed the obstruction (you all know what I mean) I assume these engines have to be what Edelbrock calls a "full vacuum port" as opposed to a "timed (no vac at idle)". But I don't know for sure because this is new terminology to me. Significance is that "full" uses vac port on driver side; "timed" uses vac port on passenger side of carb. We slantopholes are "full" aren't we?

Also, I had to use a Mr. Gasket adapter to get linkage to clear the manifold. I understand the pros and cons of a "high rise", but wonder if you folks still think 1/2 to 1" spacing is just fine to go with and whose gaskets you like best? for spacer to manifold and carb to spacer?

Last, I have a choice of vacuum ports on which to tap in for my vac. gage and so on. I can put a fitting into the offy directly under the carb in the intake, and can also remove the allen screw and put a fitting into the number 6 intake arm (closest to firewall). Either one fine to use?

Thanks
rock
'64d100

H'mmm. My initial thought was "Well, if the carb says it's gotta have a 3/8" supply line, then that's what it's gotta have", but if that's true, then you'd have to replace (upsize) the whole fuel supply system, clear from the tank to the carb, including the pump. I'd run what you already have and if you don't find the carb running out of fuel (which it probably won't, given the \6's operating RPM range), then you're all set.

For the vacuum advance, you want the "timed" port.

Your vacuum gauge readings will be a little steadier and less "jumpy" if you use the centre tap rather than the one on #6.

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Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I don't see why you can't just use the 5/16 line and shove it over the 3/8 inlet. 1/16 isn't that big of a difference when it comes to rubber hose being pushed over the fitting. As far as fuel supply goes, unless you are turning some high RPMs or ou are geting really big valves I think the 5/16 line should provide plenty of fuel flow..
Sorry, thats wrong. Slant sixes need a "ported" (no vacuum at idle) vacuum source for the distributor advance. I believe this means you hok your distributor hose to the fitting on the passenger side of the carb.
I am running a 1 inch spacer and a 1 inch adapter to get my Carter BBD to mount onto my Offy intake. Works great. I used the gaskets that came with the spacers.
Either one should work great.

The \6 uses the "timed" vaccum port. You do not need to use the 3/8" fuel line. Those carbs work just fine with 5/16". You could always use 5/16" to 3/8" adapter off the fuel pump to adjust the line size.

I've got 2-1/2" of spacers and nitrous plates under my carb. It's all good.

I was looking yesterday to see if I can get another inch spacer under there too.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

Thanks a million guys!

Man, answers from all the super-tuners! I feel much more confident now that details won't be killing me now, as in "it won't start". After listening to Reed and you all for some time now, I can see that down the road I will be playing with metering rods and such and that is one reason I got the Eddy. It looked easy to open up and play switch around with.

Again, many many thanks guys! I wish y'all could see some pics of this gem. This week I am down to "road worthy" details of fabricating parking brake cables. I am using stainless 3/16 cable and working with a crane cable fabricator to have the ends swaged on at 100 tons pressure. I had to TIG up some special links between the cab pull handle and brake cable attach point. Beautiful to look at but essential because of the 833OD swap replaced the A745 tranny parking brake. I can do this kind of work, but stuff like hose size can cause me endless worry without your sound advice!

rock
'64d100