ok i picked up a HEI out of a local wrecking yard for 5 bucks and am wondering since i i have a 85 ram and no ballast resistor do i hook it up the way Super6 sugests here
[quote]The parts of that diagram referring to 'ballast resistor diagrams' will not apply to your truck. Instead, locate the dark blue wire from the 10-pin connector leading to the SCC. This is your only ignition switched power wire. You can also find this wire by tracing it back from the voltage regulator.

The best place to tap into power from this wire is in the vicinity of the brake booster (above it, where the harness begins to lead over to the passenger side of the engine bay). There is a factory multiple splice/junction located there, where the one wire from the ignition switch splits into several wires to power the SCC, voltage regulator, any present carburetor solniods, etc.

If you just tap into power from the ignition wire for the HEI ignition, and leave the SCC connected and powered, you will not lose the lockup function on your transmission. Wink

or is there a way to set this up so i'm not using the the SCC

_________________
MOPAR OR NO CAR
1985 Ram
1975 Coronet
1998 Dakota

I am not aware of any SCC that controls the lockup function on the torque converter. As far as I know, no slant six transmisison ever had a computer controlled lock-up converter.

When I converter my 86 Dodge shorty van from SCC to HEI I powered the HEI unit from the (+) post on the coil. Then all I had to do was ground the unit and hook up the feed to the distributor.

so from this
GM HEI Ignition for Mopars

[click to enlarge]
Yes, it can be done. I chose to try to put an HEI ignition on a Mopar because of the articles I've read about Performance Distributors HEI distributors. I have seen in magazines and catalogs that the HEI's best control modules are about $40.00. This represents a really good deal, because the Mopar Performance Orange Box is $38.00, the Chrome Box is $55.00, and the Gold Box is $120.00. Heat or moisture does not affect the HEI ignition. There are two kinds of HEI ignition, the 4-Pin (shown above) and the 7-Pin. The 4-Pin is used in carborated vehicles, while the 7-pin is used in Fuel Injected cars. Using this system, the troublesome ballast resistor can be removed if you run an aftermarket coil.

Finding a Control Unit and related Wiring
Unfortunately, one of the connectors needed to put an HEI on your mopar has to be found at the Junkyard. That yellow connector above has to be used, because the control unit has an odd sized connection for the green wire. Also, you must cut a distributor connector off a Mopar car with a distributor the same kind as the one you're using. (e.g. lean burn only goes with lean burn…etc) You must use a Mopar Electronic Ignition Vaccum Advance distributor with this setup (get the right one for your engine) When you take the control unit, take the self-tapping screws that hold the Control Unit (ECU) to the distributor. The best candidates to take the control units off of are the cars with the big caps (about 4-6" across) and they usually have a coil on the top. These can be found in straight sixes and V8's of all GM makes. Out of the two control units shown above, the top one is from a '77 Chevy Chevelle with a Straight Six, and the Bottom one is from a Cadillac Eldorado with a 425 V8. There are only minor differences between the two control units, and they are fully interchangeable. You also must replace your original coil with one from a lean burn car or an Aftermarket coil such as an Accel Super Stock Street or MSD blaster, etc... and bypass the ballast resistor as shown in the diagrams below.

Fabbing Up a Wiring Harness

4-Pin HEI


7-Pin HEI


Ballast Resistor Bypass Diagrams
Using the wiring diagram above, connect the wires on the distributor side (16 or 18 Gauge) to the matching wires on the control unit, making sure to size the wires so the unit will fit where you want it in your car. Then, using some parts store connectors and 14 Gauge wire, connect the Red wire as shown in the wiring diagram to the Terminal Marked "B" on the ECU, and then connect the other side to the positive side of the coil using a ring terminal. Then take another connector with a black wire and connect it to the "C" Terminal on the ECU, then to the negative side of the coil, and make sure the dark blue wire is connected to the Positive side of the coil. It is a good Idea to solder any splices, and solder the ends of the wires in to the terminals, then electrical tape the entire harness and route it to keep it away from any heat (exhaust, Intake manifold, Valve covers, etc…) Mount the ECU where you feel comfortable with it (it must be grounded), and use some heat sink on the back of the ECU (on the metal part). Then try to crank her up!
Things you need:
· HEI Unit from inside of Distributor
· Hold down bolts
· 3 Large female spade terminals
· 1 Small female spade terminal
· 2 ring terminals
· 2 male spade terminals
· Solder
· Solder Iron
· Electrical Tape
· Red 14 Guage wire
· Black 14 Guage wire
· Connector for mopar distributor
· Non-Resistor Coil ( Aftermarket or Lean-Burn)
Here are a few photos of the setup in Reed's 1975 Valiant. These photos were taken with the engine running.

This photo shows the ballast resistor being bypassed, and the Chrysler Electronic Unhooked.

This one shows the spliced distributor connector connected, and the old Chrysler Electronic Unhooked.

This shows the wiring of the HEI unit, and the fact that it has to be grounded to work.
My System (off the car)

This shows the entire system, including the stock distributor, connectors, HEI module. Its ready to go.

Here's the HEI with Chrysler Ballast resistor connectors on the left and a stock GM HEI connector on the right.

Here's the connection from the fabbed HEI harness to the Distributor using stock connectors so that it is easy to service the Distributor, and you can change between HEI and Chrysler Electronic/MSD, etc...
Newer Harness example (Made with Aftermarket terminals)

(Wes' HEI Harness)
This page will be updated when I get it on my 318 also (it has points now)...update...It still isn't on...I must be lazy...
Any questions can be addressed by E-mailing me at goldduster318@speedymail.org



what changes do i make

_________________
MOPAR OR NO CAR
1985 Ram
1975 Coronet
1998 Dakota