Uh oh. Put a 77 225 into my 64 Valiant. Instead of using my original 170 head to keep the original look, I used an old head that was rebuilt but of an unknown condition. Well got it started but when water was added it came out the rear lift hole in the head Also, I put on the original 170 manifolds and the exhaust flange does not match up lit gaps @ 1/8 inch and rests against tde pan flange.

Is the head cracked or possibly did I install the head gasket wrong or
something?

If cracked. If I use my 170 head on the 225 should I use the 225 manifolds?
Are the not the same dimensions as the 170? I thought thes were interchangeable.

Am Im better off going with the 77 head? I would really like to keep the original look.

Here are all of my parts:
Rebuilt 77 short block in the car.
possibly cracked early head on the 77 engine with 170 manifolds on it.
complete 170 without the manifolds

Manifolds and head should interchange. The 225 does require a different exhaust pipe though.

Not sure about the water problem. Plug left out of the head during the rebuild?

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

Never fear, I had the same water issue after using too long of a hoist screw in the past. The very front and rear holes you speak of have a short and direct path to the water jacket.

I fixed mine by simply inserting a plug screw with teflon thread compound.

Moral of the story is, only use the two center holes for lifting I guess.

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63 Valiant 200 Signet Convertible 170/
63 Dart, 225/
68 A100 Pick-up 225/
2006 Mitsu Raider Quad Cab (Dakota) Mopar 4.7L
1992 Dodge Stealth RT (My Mid-Lifer) 3.0L 24V

Guys, this is great news, if it is the problem. This older head has only two lifting holes on the head. Am I missing something?

About the exhaust...
Have I made a mistake using the 170 exhaust on the 225? Is it he same height from separation line to flange as a 225 manifold? Or is it just the height of the 225 that changes the angle?

There is no difference between an exhaust manifold for a 170 vs. 225. They are the same. The exhaust headpipe is bent differently for 170 vs. 225, though, because the manifold-to-pipe flange is located 1" lower in the engine compartment with a 170 (due to the shorter block height).

BTW, does your car have an automatic transmission? If so, did you buy and install the necessary 1/8" adaptor ring so that your pre-'67 transmission torque converter will mate correctly with your '68-up engine?

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Yes, Dan, I have installed the adapter. Your messages along with others have made this slow moving project much less trouble than it could have been. Now that the head MAY be ok, I'll get to the muffler shop and fix that exhaust. just in case, besides foam in the oil what kind of symtoms should I look for in a cracked head? This project started with a cracked waterjacket and it grows and grows.

:(New problem. Got the slant started and plugged the leaking lift hole. It got hotter and while the cap was off, it erupted. the bottom radiator hose was barely warm. a candy thermometer showed it to be @ 200 degrees.
have I got a bad thermostat, Bad waterpump, wrong or wrongly installed headgasket? Is it possible to install it wrong? The gasket is for the 77 and the head is from an early slant could that be a problem? anything else?

Start by checking the thermostat, that is most likely the cause of the problem. Is the water pump turning freely, does the pump look like a new unit?
DD

Installing a new 180 degree thermostat tonight. the waterpump was solid. No leak and no in and out play. What else could be a problem? I'm beginning to be paranoid about mixing parts form two different era slants. etc.

Not to insult your intelligence, but make sure the 'stat is in the correct direction also. The copper 'chunk' should face in towards the head. If you put it in backwards it won't open as the temp increases. I actually made this mistake... it was late and I was in a hurry. Thankfully, in my haste I also managed to pinch the gasket, so it leaked when I filled it up, before I even started it. Found my error as I was replacing the gasket.

You might have air trapped behind the thermostat, not allowing the system to fill properly. This happens everytime I have my cooling system open. Do you have a heater? Pull the heater inlet hose off, and fill the system until coolant comes out of this hose. Then quickly hook hose back up and start engine.

Mitch

Thanks guys, the thermostat was installed correctly with the big end toward the head. I thought about it being air bound. Good tip about
getting the air out, I'll try it. As slow as I'm moving, trying to remember the parts and sequence can be tough. Now I'll re-torque the head, button up, fill it up, start it and hope for the best.

I believe all of my head castings have at least four holes, maybe five without looking....however I am told that only the center two were designed in for hoisting and balancing an assembled engine/tranny combo.

My Lancer has it's original 1962 Head, Dart has it's original 63 head, however it's been replaced by a 1977 head with at least four holes, and 65 truck also has multiples.

Hmmmmmm, wonder if the factory retooled at some point and didn't need the extras?, but when?

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63 Valiant 200 Signet Convertible 170/
63 Dart, 225/
68 A100 Pick-up 225/
2006 Mitsu Raider Quad Cab (Dakota) Mopar 4.7L
1992 Dodge Stealth RT (My Mid-Lifer) 3.0L 24V