Hadn't thought of that.

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'15 Chrysler 200S V6
'74 Duster 360, factory 4 speed car

I am still new to turbos but, My slant six starts to boost @ 1400 RPM ...6PSI by 2300 RPM... and will hit 10 PSI @ 3000 and run it till red line somewere around 5900 RPM. (only have a 10 PSI gauge) The Turbo is from a Mitsubishi Starion'89 2.6L 4cyl.... Its a TD05 12A 8 . Not much comprimize if ya ask me, just BOOST.

Still tuning to handle over 9PSI ...things start to get a little wild.

"a blower drags the motor down all the time"

Which is why all the modern Eatons have a vacuum bypass for part throttle operation - almosy nothing goes through the compressor so pumping load is very low.

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My slant six starts to boost @ 1400 RPM ...6PSI by 2300 RPM

The compromise is that the compressor won't flow all the motor will take at high boost, the turbine will run hot all the time, the discharge temperature will be higher than with a bigger turbo, the pumping loss is very high, and the exhaust backpressure may reach 3 psi for every pound of boost.
Just using a larger A/R turbine housing may increase your power quite a bit, but it will delay boost.

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From what I've seen and heard I used a smaller turbo than most said would even work. I sized it through a little bit a research and math. It has to do with the amount of air that a turbo can move. Bigger is not always better!

My turbo is from an innercooled Buick Grand National, just as Bob D suggested in his article on this subject. This turbo seems to be ideal for the slant. Boost somes on seemlessly aroung 1600RPM, and builds quickly to 9 lbs. It will turn up to 5900rpm at this point. It all happens so fast that I haven't really taken the time to map out the boost curve. Boost comes on so readily, that sometimes in high gear you find yourself in boost going up a hill when you didn;t even know it was coming. Of course you can hear it spooling up, and I have to say, I really like that sound better than "boom". I recently sold two cars that went "boom", and kept the one that went "whr"r. A turbo engine is a blast to drive. You feel like some crazy devil has gotten ahold of the engine and is running away with it.

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I haven't put a pressure gauge on the exhaust side, but if I do I let ya know what it reads @ boost.

Ok got some pis of my turbo slant set-up (off the truck)


the gauge was just a test fit, I installed a brass tee.


The carb height is not ideal, it hits the hood, time for a scoop!

I'm a bit concerned about your turbo's compressor seal. As a former Conquest owner I know that Mitsubishi put the throttle after the compressor. This means, of course, that the compressor was never under vacuum. Turbo I 2.2s used a thottle upstream of the compressor so those little T3s will take vacuum. I own a vehicle with a 16G on a 2.0 liter engine stock. I can't imagine running a 12G on a 3.7L.

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Joshua

What about side-draft carbs????

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

Nice pics of a home built system. What kind of specs on the motor? I am guessing minimal flow work (head/cam) for that turbo to work.

...and Sam, great description of your turbo driving experiences, makes me want one

I would like to build a turbo 170 myself. The local road racing sanctioning body has a 40% factor for forced induction in the SUper Production class. The normally aspirated class breaks for Super Production are under 2 liters (SPU) and over 4 liters (SPO). A turbo 2.8 (the 170) factors to 3.92 liters so it fit perfectly at the top of the middle class SPM. I just worry about the oiling and cooling of the engine.

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Joshua

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http://www.cardomain.com/id/lncognito

Well the 225 has been bored 40 over, has a Lunati Racing Cam (specs?
.440 lift ). The rebuild was 10,000 Miles ago.

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1983 Dodge D150 Turbo Slant 6
Carb. 4spd. 2wd.