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 Post subject: Re: brass or nickel
PostPosted: Wed Jun 07, 2006 4:51 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Location: Ooltewah, Tennessee
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mopar_nocar wrote:
drill holes, use an angle grinder to cut a 'V' that follows the crack. once that's done, us acetylene/O2 torch to braze along with brass brazing rod....i have heard of people using nickel rod, but i don't have personal experience with

It takes more heat than brass as a rule, therefore more preheating. Nickel is excellent on cast and somewhat stronger than brass. But if brass holds, what's the point?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jun 07, 2006 5:16 pm 
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TBI Slant 6
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if you want that fixed fast use this http://www.belzona.com/1111.aspx

way stronger than jb weld

We've used it at work on a chiller ...6 months still good

a friend of mine used it on a cracked block also...

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jun 07, 2006 6:01 pm 
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Location: Dalton, GA
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Matadem is right if i was going to use a epoxy or what it is i would use belzona. We use this product where i work to put a like 40 grit rocks on a steel roller to grind the polyurethane off the back of carpet. We put the Belzona on the steel roller and sprinkle the grit on the roller the roller is 15 ft long. The problem we have after the 40 grit rocks wear down it takes a day of hard sandblasting with a special sand blasting material to get the Belzona off. Im talking about a serious machine that has two 2000 pound rollers turning about 650 rpm all day long. We redu this app about every two years. Thanks Ron Parker :D




Git Er Done


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jun 07, 2006 9:07 pm 
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6 Pack Dart
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Location: Eugene, Oregon
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I did the same thing (left the anti-freeze to weak) in a Pontiac 389. I did a longer fix than add stop leak. Start with drilling a hole just past the end of the crack then tap the hole and screw in a brass or if you can find something better screw into the taped hole and cut of flush with the surface of the block, and repeat the process by drilling an overlaping hole into the newly surfaced screw and the block. Keep this up until you have the last hole overlaping the other end of the crack. This takes a bit of time but it is how they used to fix cracks in blocks many years ago.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jun 08, 2006 3:41 am 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Tue Feb 22, 2005 5:35 pm
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Location: Maine
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My Dad collects the old "One-Lunger" farm engines that were used in the early 1900's. Many of these engines were left in the field, with the hopper full of water, when they were retired. Cracked heads and blocks (irreplaceable) are a way of life.

Drill the holes on each end, then use a a heavy-duty grinder to cut a small v-groove along the length of the crack. Then go ahead with your epoxy fill.

This trick has worked dozens of times, and the engines cycle through the same temps that a car engine does.

-Mac


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jun 08, 2006 10:43 am 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''

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CStryker wrote:
64VRagtop wrote:
Not yet, what shoud I be looking for... oil I suppose.

You /do/ want to find oil; you /don't/ want to find water.


Um, yeah. Brain fart... I was thinking of draining the rad for some reason...lol.

Anyhow, thanks for all the insight people. This forum rocks. :)

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jun 08, 2006 10:47 am 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''

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By the way, that Belzona stuff looks insane... if what their site says is true, I should be able to make a completely new block out of their stuff... pistons and bearings too :P Crazy.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jun 08, 2006 6:20 pm 
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You want to come down here and sand blast a 15 foot roller about 8 hours to get it off. I help put this product on the steel roller and sprinkle the 40 grit rocks on the steel roller. And this machine does not loose any grit the grit wears out. What other product would you put 40 grit abrasve to a steel roller and run for two years. Thanks Ron Parker :D :D
Ps What i see work is what i use







It Aint Over Until I Win


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jun 09, 2006 12:21 am 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''

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Any idea where I can buy Belzona?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jun 09, 2006 5:19 pm 
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Location: Dalton, GA
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This product is made in the UK we have a Belzona rep here when we do the rollers. It takes a case of each product ie like adhivse and hardner and two 5 galion buckets of grit to do two rollers. You can go there web site but i did not see a lot of dealers. PS the Belzona that we use is the 1321 cermic steel. Thanks Ron Parker :D









It Aint Over Until I Win


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