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 Post subject: Big Valves Again
PostPosted: Tue Sep 18, 2001 6:18 am 
I am thinking of building a head for my 6 and went through the archives on valves. There is so much info and recomendations I am now more confused than when I started.

Currently I have a stock head that has been surfaced 0.60", an Offy 4bbl manifold, 390cfm vacuum secondary 4bbl, COMP 252S cam and 6 into 2 headers with dual exhaust (3:23 rear with A833OD). This combo runs very wheel but no one will ever mistake the car for fast. Currently the power is all over at about 4k rpm. I have been told that new valve springs will extend out the power band and I hope to install the COMP Cam 970-12 springs I have sitting on the shelf this weekend.

My Barracuda is a driver and I love the attention it gets with the 6 set up. I would like to keep the 6 and increase the power to make the car low to mid 15 sec capable like my Shelby Daytona.

Here is my list of questions;

1. I looked through a valve catalog and no one has a 3/8 valve that is the same length as a 6 valve. The closest was AMC 258 valves (I 1.787 E 1.406). These are less than .1" longer. What is the maximum the valve can be longer than stock before you need to do something about the valve train geometry? 318 valves seem like a good size (1.78/1.5) have the 3/8 stems but are almost .2" longer.

2. Is the AMC 1.406 Ex. size even worth considering since most of the recomendations are a 1.5"?

3. Are the MP oversize 6 valves still around?

4. What are people spending to have valve seats cut for bigger valves?

5. What are people spending to have valves shortened?

6. Are there any porting templates around for the 6?

7. How much improvement in power could I expect by just having a good 3 angle valve, job blend the seats to the bowls, clean up the ports and gasket match?

If doing up a head to support the power I am looking for is going to approach $1k then I will likely look at a 360 v8 swape again.

Thanks! :-)

Dave's Hot-Rod 6
dave.clement@motorola.com


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 Post subject: Re: Big Valves Again
PostPosted: Tue Sep 18, 2001 1:36 pm 
Quote:
: I am thinking of building a head for my 6 and
: went through the archives on valves. There
: is so much info and recomendations I am now
: more confused than when I started.
:
: Currently I have a stock head that has been
: surfaced 0.60", an Offy 4bbl manifold,
: 390cfm vacuum secondary 4bbl, COMP 252S cam
: and 6 into 2 headers with dual exhaust (3:23
: rear with A833OD). This combo runs very
: wheel but no one will ever mistake the car
: for fast. Currently the power is all over at
: about 4k rpm. I have been told that new
: valve springs will extend out the power band
: and I hope to install the COMP Cam 970-12
: springs I have sitting on the shelf this
: weekend.
:
: My Barracuda is a driver and I love the
: attention it gets with the 6 set up. I
: would like to keep the 6 and increase the
: power to make the car low to mid 15 sec
: capable like my Shelby Daytona.
:
: Here is my list of questions;
:
: 1. I looked through a valve catalog and no one
: has a 3/8 valve that is the same length as a
: 6 valve. The closest was AMC 258 valves (I
: 1.787 E 1.406). These are less than .1"
: longer. What is the maximum the valve can be
: longer than stock before you need to do
: something about the valve train geometry?
: 318 valves seem like a good size (1.78/1.5)
: have the 3/8 stems but are almost .2"
: longer.
:
: 2. Is the AMC 1.406 Ex. size even worth
: considering since most of the recomendations
: are a 1.5"?
:
: 3. Are the MP oversize 6 valves still around?
:
: 4. What are people spending to have valve seats
: cut for bigger valves?
:
: 5. What are people spending to have valves
: shortened?
:
: 6. Are there any porting templates around for
: the 6?
:
: 7. How much improvement in power could I expect
: by just having a good 3 angle valve, job
: blend the seats to the bowls, clean up the
: ports and gasket match?
:
: If doing up a head to support the power I am
: looking for is going to approach $1k then I
: will likely look at a 360 v8 swape again.
:
: Thanks! :-)

My Opinion "please treat it as such!" ditch the comp cam! i had the 264s and quickly replaced it with the 264 (228*at .050) .448" isky. the isky is a HOT little cam with very good street manners.
Do a good clean up and gasket match on the head. good valve job, and a new set of 340 springs. don't wast the money on the comp blah blah whatever springs. they are most likely made by melling and put in a comp box.
you may need a touch more compression than -.060 from the head can yield. maybee - another.100 from the deck!
more carb than the 390, try the 500 edelwebber.
msd or crane ignition
904 tranny tweaked with moderate convertor.
i have run 16.6 at 84.88 mph in the 1/4 with a 3600 lb aspen with 3.21 gears with a similar setup.
start with a GOOD cam and a fresh head. (racesearch.com sells the isky!) you are running out of cam at 4,000 rite now. the 252s is at best a stock replacement, not even worthy of the RV cam tag. once again, only my opinion.

beardliz@msn.com


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 Post subject: Re: Big Valves Again
PostPosted: Tue Sep 18, 2001 2:25 pm 
Quote:
: My Opinion "please treat it as such!"
: ditch the comp cam! i had the 264s and
: quickly replaced it with the 264 (228*at
: .050) .448" isky. the isky is a HOT
: little cam with very good street manners.
: Do a good clean up and gasket match on the
: head. good valve job, and a new set of 340
: springs. don't wast the money on the comp
: blah blah whatever springs. they are most
: likely made by melling and put in a comp
: box.
: you may need a touch more compression than
: -.060 from the head can yield. maybee -
: another.100 from the deck!
: more carb than the 390, try the 500 edelwebber.
: msd or crane ignition
: 904 tranny tweaked with moderate convertor.
: i have run 16.6 at 84.88 mph in the 1/4 with a
: 3600 lb aspen with 3.21 gears with a similar
: setup.
: start with a GOOD cam and a fresh head.
: (racesearch.com sells the isky!) you are
: running out of cam at 4,000 rite now. the
: 252s is at best a stock replacement, not
: even worthy of the RV cam tag. once again,
: only my opinion.


Thanks for the feed back. But I do have a few questions regarding your response.

1. What is it about the Isky Cam that makes it that much superior to the Comp Cam when both have pretty much the same specs?

2. Erson has a 270/270(220/220 @.050), .465 lift, 111 lobe center, 4 adv. Do you have any comments on this cam?

2. What is wrong with Comp Cam valve springs? Or, Melling for that matter? (BTW I got the set of COMP cam springs for $20.00)

3. A total of .160 removed from the head and block seems excessive. What kind of compression does that create?

4. I have not run my Barracuda but it' quite a bit slower than my Shelby Daytona (best of 15.2) and a bit faster than my wifes Avenger (best of 17.0). 16.6 seems like it's in the range of what the car will do now with the current mods. Is low/mid 15's resonable with just some head work? The bottom end is sound and I have no plans to pull it.

Thanks :-)

Dave's Hot-Rod 6
dave.clement@motorola.com


Top
   
 Post subject: Re: Big Valves Again
PostPosted: Tue Sep 18, 2001 3:21 pm 
Quote:
: I am thinking of building a head for my 6 and
: went through the archives on valves. There
: is so much info and recomendations I am now
: more confused than when I started.
:
: Currently I have a stock head that has been
: surfaced 0.60", an Offy 4bbl manifold,
: 390cfm vacuum secondary 4bbl, COMP 252S cam
: and 6 into 2 headers with dual exhaust (3:23
: rear with A833OD). This combo runs very
: wheel but no one will ever mistake the car
: for fast. Currently the power is all over at
: about 4k rpm. I have been told that new
: valve springs will extend out the power band
: and I hope to install the COMP Cam 970-12
: springs I have sitting on the shelf this
: weekend.
:
: My Barracuda is a driver and I love the
: attention it gets with the 6 set up. I
: would like to keep the 6 and increase the
: power to make the car low to mid 15 sec
: capable like my Shelby Daytona.
:
: Here is my list of questions;
:
: 1. I looked through a valve catalog and no one
: has a 3/8 valve that is the same length as a
: 6 valve. The closest was AMC 258 valves (I
: 1.787 E 1.406). These are less than .1"
: longer. What is the maximum the valve can be
: longer than stock before you need to do
: something about the valve train geometry?
: 318 valves seem like a good size (1.78/1.5)
: have the 3/8 stems but are almost .2"
: longer.
:
: 2. Is the AMC 1.406 Ex. size even worth
: considering since most of the recomendations
: are a 1.5"?
:
: 3. Are the MP oversize 6 valves still around?
:
: 4. What are people spending to have valve seats
: cut for bigger valves?
:
: 5. What are people spending to have valves
: shortened?
:
: 6. Are there any porting templates around for
: the 6?
:
: 7. How much improvement in power could I expect
: by just having a good 3 angle valve, job
: blend the seats to the bowls, clean up the
: ports and gasket match?
:
: If doing up a head to support the power I am
: looking for is going to approach $1k then I
: will likely look at a 360 v8 swape again.
:
: Thanks! :-)

I just went through this on my slant6 head. I used Ford 300 cid 6cyl. valves 1.75 intake and 1.5 exhaust, Clifford heavy duty retainer and clips for a Ford 300 cid and MOPAR 273/318 springs. 340 valve springs would bind and stock 225 valves were a different diameter. This combo gave me about30% more valve spring pressure, and enough clearance to keep my springs from binding with a .440 lift-.010 lift cam. The FOrd valves are .100" longer than the stock slant valves and there is much room for that removal although I dont know if it is really neccesary. I spent $300 for a mag, cleaning, shave .070"and to have the larger valves put into the head minus springs, retainers, and assembly. I spent another $300 to have the head bowl ported by someone I knew could do the job properly. He said that match porting for a street car was not worth the extra money for the performance gains it would yield. I know that there were porting templates and a performance ported head for the Slant but they are no longer available to my knowledge. If it were me doing this job I would get the bigger valves, raise compression, bowl port and a good 3 angle valve job. I just put a head like this and headers on my 64 Dart and the difference was impressive. I have an Offy with a Holley 390, Comp Cam .440/264 cam. The upgrades should cost about $500-$600.

MrSlant@pacbell.net


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 Post subject: Re: Big Valves Again
PostPosted: Tue Sep 18, 2001 6:55 pm 
I know that this is off the subject a little but why not put a turbo on it. I have a turbo slant six that is stock (engine wise) with 3.55 rear gears and I run 15.1s at 88 mph. just a thought!!!

andrew wagner
Quote:
:
: Thanks for the feed back. But I do have a few
: questions regarding your response.
:
: 1. What is it about the Isky Cam that makes it
: that much superior to the Comp Cam when both
: have pretty much the same specs?
:
: 2. Erson has a 270/270(220/220 @.050), .465
: lift, 111 lobe center, 4 adv. Do you have
: any comments on this cam?
:
: 2. What is wrong with Comp Cam valve springs?
: Or, Melling for that matter? (BTW I got the
: set of COMP cam springs for $20.00)
:
: 3. A total of .160 removed from the head and
: block seems excessive. What kind of
: compression does that create?
:
: 4. I have not run my Barracuda but it' quite a
: bit slower than my Shelby Daytona (best of
: 15.2) and a bit faster than my wifes Avenger
: (best of 17.0). 16.6 seems like it's in the
: range of what the car will do now with the
: current mods. Is low/mid 15's resonable with
: just some head work? The bottom end is sound
: and I have no plans to pull it.
:
: Thanks :-)


Top
   
PostPosted: Tue Sep 18, 2001 8:11 pm 
Yes, the SL6 responds well to any headwork you give it. I feel that you will get noticable power gains with your combo if you just port and mill the head, keeping the stock size valves.

Bigger valves will help, the AMC ones will do. Another valve I use a lot are the Big Block Mopar exhaust valves 1.74 and the 1.6 which has to be "turned-down" on a lathe. These valves are also .1 long but some of that can be "taken-up" when the new seat is ground-onto the chamber, keep it up high as poss.

The key to this decision is the condition of your head's valve guides.

If you guides are worn-out, spend the money to sleeve them down to the F@&d 300 stem size and use those. The 3.8 Buick and S.B. Chebby can also be used. There is more selection and better flow at the smaller stem size so do some "shopping".
DD
Quote:
:
: I am thinking of building a head for my 6 and
: went through the archives on valves. There
: is so much info and recomendations I am now
: more confused than when I started.
:
: Currently I have a stock head that has been
: surfaced 0.60", an Offy 4bbl manifold,
: 390cfm vacuum secondary 4bbl, COMP 252S cam
: and 6 into 2 headers with dual exhaust (3:23
: rear with A833OD). This combo runs very
: wheel but no one will ever mistake the car
: for fast. Currently the power is all over at
: about 4k rpm. I have been told that new
: valve springs will extend out the power band
: and I hope to install the COMP Cam 970-12
: springs I have sitting on the shelf this
: weekend.
:
: My Barracuda is a driver and I love the
: attention it gets with the 6 set up. I
: would like to keep the 6 and increase the
: power to make the car low to mid 15 sec
: capable like my Shelby Daytona.
:
: Here is my list of questions;
:
: 1. I looked through a valve catalog and no one
: has a 3/8 valve that is the same length as a
: 6 valve. The closest was AMC 258 valves (I
: 1.787 E 1.406). These are less than .1"
: longer. What is the maximum the valve can be
: longer than stock before you need to do
: something about the valve train geometry?
: 318 valves seem like a good size (1.78/1.5)
: have the 3/8 stems but are almost .2"
: longer.
:
: 2. Is the AMC 1.406 Ex. size even worth
: considering since most of the recomendations
: are a 1.5"?
:
: 3. Are the MP oversize 6 valves still around?
:
: 4. What are people spending to have valve seats
: cut for bigger valves?
:
: 5. What are people spending to have valves
: shortened?
:
: 6. Are there any porting templates around for
: the 6?
:
: 7. How much improvement in power could I expect
: by just having a good 3 angle valve, job
: blend the seats to the bowls, clean up the
: ports and gasket match?
:
: If doing up a head to support the power I am
: looking for is going to approach $1k then I
: will likely look at a 360 v8 swape again.
:
: Thanks! :-)


Top
   
 Post subject: Re: Big Valves Again
PostPosted: Wed Sep 19, 2001 2:41 am 
Quote:
: Thanks for the feed back. But I do have a few
: questions regarding your response.
:
: 1. What is it about the Isky Cam that makes it
: that much superior to the Comp Cam when both
: have pretty much the same specs?
:
: 2. Erson has a 270/270(220/220 @.050), .465
: lift, 111 lobe center, 4 adv. Do you have
: any comments on this cam?
:
: 2. What is wrong with Comp Cam valve springs?
: Or, Melling for that matter? (BTW I got the
: set of COMP cam springs for $20.00)
:
: 3. A total of .160 removed from the head and
: block seems excessive. What kind of
: compression does that create?
:
: 4. I have not run my Barracuda but it' quite a
: bit slower than my Shelby Daytona (best of
: 15.2) and a bit faster than my wifes Avenger
: (best of 17.0). 16.6 seems like it's in the
: range of what the car will do now with the
: current mods. Is low/mid 15's resonable with
: just some head work? The bottom end is sound
: and I have no plans to pull it.
:
: Thanks :-)

the comp, for me, was late to come on, (in+4*) and ran out way too soon, the isky in the same motor pulled hard off idle to 5,000, would have gone more with less advance. i could get a 2.2 sec 60' time with the isky and only a 2.6 with the comp. couldnt break 17.2 with the comp (264s) remember, this is in a HEAVY car. late 70s 4 door aspen) my block is decked .145" with .060 overbore. sbc 1.50 exh valves in head. i have a slightly larger cam than the isky in it rite now
280*/284*, 248*/253* at .050, .509" lift, 110 lc
it has cured the ping on pump gas problem, daily driver. he ha! am considering going back to the isky tho, and saving the larger cam for the current build project.
i can't/wont comment on the erson cam because i have not used it myself.
there is nothing wrong with comp springs-for $20
melling springs are fine as well. they make alot of companies parts that simply repackage things and jack up the price. buy 3 or 4 different brand name timing sets and check the #s and machine marks!
are you running stock pistons/rings? stock bottom end/ stock oiling system. these things should be considered when wanting to "wind it up"...chad

beardliz@msn.com


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 20, 2001 2:24 pm 
Quote:
: Yes, the SL6 responds well to any headwork you
: give it. I feel that you will get noticable
: power gains with your combo if you just port
: and mill the head, keeping the stock size
: valves.
:
: Bigger valves will help, the AMC ones will do.
: Another valve I use a lot are the Big Block
: Mopar exhaust valves 1.74 and the 1.6 which
: has to be "turned-down" on a
: lathe. These valves are also .1 long but
: some of that can be "taken-up"
: when the new seat is ground-onto the
: chamber, keep it up high as poss.
:
: The key to this decision is the condition of
: your head's valve guides.
:
: If you guides are worn-out, spend the money to
: sleeve them down to the F@&d 300 stem size
: and use those. The 3.8 Buick and S.B. Chebby
: can also be used. There is more selection
: and better flow at the smaller stem size so
: do some "shopping".
: DD

I have a new set of the big block Mopar valves that I need to part with if anyone is interested. $100.00 and I will ship! THANKS! Darrin

dartman225@webtv.net


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 21, 2001 2:14 pm 
Quote:
: Yes, the SL6 responds well to any headwork you
: give it. I feel that you will get noticable
: power gains with your combo if you just port
: and mill the head, keeping the stock size
: valves.
:
: Bigger valves will help, the AMC ones will do.
: Another valve I use a lot are the Big Block
: Mopar exhaust valves 1.74 and the 1.6 which
: has to be "turned-down" on a
: lathe. These valves are also .1 long but
: some of that can be "taken-up"
: when the new seat is ground-onto the
: chamber, keep it up high as poss.
:
: The key to this decision is the condition of
: your head's valve guides.
:
: If you guides are worn-out, spend the money to
: sleeve them down to the F@&d 300 stem size
: and use those. The 3.8 Buick and S.B. Chebby
: can also be used. There is more selection
: and better flow at the smaller stem size so
: do some "shopping".
: DD


Here's what I did for my big valve /6 head, which is now complete and waiting for me to assemble the engine.:
I got a 1979 /6 head, and had it hot tanked, crack checked, and had the guides resized to 11/32 and the valve seats bored out to 1.78" and 1.50".
The valves I'm using are small block Phord windsor intakes (1.78") and small block Shivvy exhausts (1.50"). Wish someone had mentioned the AMC 258 intakes about 4 months ago. I'd have used those instead.
I took the head home from the machine shop to do the porting. A LOT of metal had to come out of the bowl area to get it all to blend together nicely.
When the porting was done, I took the head back to the machine shop, and they cut the final 3 angle seats, pressure tested (80 psi) the head, and measured and installed the valve springs (340 replacement with dampers) and checked the seat pressures and installed height. The exhausts have .120" of shims under the springs.

Total cost so far? Around $750.00, plus 40-50 hours of my porting time.

Recently, I ported out a set of 051 small block smog heads for my '79 Aspen R/T. Took them for a flow test, and got 215 (same as X heads) on the 1.88" intakes, and 160 (20 better than X heads) on the exhaust. I took along the /6 head for the shop owner to inspect. He thought the porting and seats were pretty good, and it should flow well. I couldn't get a flow test done because they didn't have a fixture to hold open the valves that would bolt to a /6 head. I could make one and take it back for a test, but probably won't. Costs $. I'd like to know the numbers, but cash is getting short again.

The guy who did the flow test told me about how having good seats is very important to good flow numbers, especially at low lifts. The 051 heads I ported had the stock factory seats, and I only did a hand lapping compound job on them. He said it could've done much better with a good 3 angle seat cut. I'm guessing he knows what he's talking about. The shop is Tom's auto machine, also known as Tom Hemphill Racing Engines, in Clarksburg, PA. He has an MP megablock with B1 heads in a '69 Barracuda that runs 6.90's at 200 in the 1/4. You can see his name in the Big Dog class sometimes in the Mopar magazines that publish race results.

The 2 different valves I have in my /6 head now have the valve tips at different heights, but since /6's have adjustable rockers I'm not concerned about it. In the worst case, I should be able to put in sone rocker shaft shims and be done with it.


Top
   
PostPosted: Fri Sep 21, 2001 6:10 pm 
Quote:
: Here's what I did for my big valve /6 head,
: which is now complete and waiting for me to
: assemble the engine.: I got a 1979 /6 head,
: and had it hot tanked, crack checked, and
: had the guides resized to 11/32 and the
: valve seats bored out to 1.78" and
: 1.50".
: The valves I'm using are small block Phord
: windsor intakes (1.78") and small block
: Shivvy exhausts (1.50"). Wish someone
: had mentioned the AMC 258 intakes about 4
: months ago. I'd have used those instead.
: I took the head home from the machine shop to
: do the porting. A LOT of metal had to come
: out of the bowl area to get it all to blend
: together nicely.
: When the porting was done, I took the head back
: to the machine shop, and they cut the final
: 3 angle seats, pressure tested (80 psi) the
: head, and measured and installed the valve
: springs (340 replacement with dampers) and
: checked the seat pressures and installed
: height. The exhausts have .120" of
: shims under the springs.
:
: Total cost so far? Around $750.00, plus 40-50
: hours of my porting time.
:
: Recently, I ported out a set of 051 small block
: smog heads for my '79 Aspen R/T. Took them
: for a flow test, and got 215 (same as X
: heads) on the 1.88" intakes, and 160
: (20 better than X heads) on the exhaust. I
: took along the /6 head for the shop owner to
: inspect. He thought the porting and seats
: were pretty good, and it should flow well. I
: couldn't get a flow test done because they
: didn't have a fixture to hold open the
: valves that would bolt to a /6 head. I could
: make one and take it back for a test, but
: probably won't. Costs $. I'd like to know
: the numbers, but cash is getting short
: again.
:
: The guy who did the flow test told me about how
: having good seats is very important to good
: flow numbers, especially at low lifts. The
: 051 heads I ported had the stock factory
: seats, and I only did a hand lapping
: compound job on them. He said it could've
: done much better with a good 3 angle seat
: cut. I'm guessing he knows what he's talking
: about. The shop is Tom's auto machine, also
: known as Tom Hemphill Racing Engines, in
: Clarksburg, PA. He has an MP megablock with
: B1 heads in a '69 Barracuda that runs 6.90's
: at 200 in the 1/4. You can see his name in
: the Big Dog class sometimes in the Mopar
: magazines that publish race results.
:
: The 2 different valves I have in my /6 head now
: have the valve tips at different heights,
: but since /6's have adjustable rockers I'm
: not concerned about it. In the worst case, I
: should be able to put in sone rocker shaft
: shims and be done with it.

i have had nothing but trouble with rocker shims in the past. perhaps consider making/having made pushrods to fit. if you did not have the spring seats cut i would double check the .120 worth of shim. there may not be enough meat to hold the spring/shim in place when you wind it up enough to get into the 14s you are expecting with the 268 mp cam. dropping a valve in ol daddy long stroke could be real bad, especially since there may very well be enough room in the cylinder to suck up the whole valve. owwweeey....chad

beardliz@msn.com


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 22, 2001 9:40 am 
Quote:
: i have had nothing but trouble with rocker
: shims in the past. perhaps consider
: making/having made pushrods to fit. if you
: did not have the spring seats cut i would
: double check the .120 worth of shim. there
: may not be enough meat to hold the
: spring/shim in place when you wind it up
: enough to get into the 14s you are expecting
: with the 268 mp cam. dropping a valve in ol
: daddy long stroke could be real bad,
: especially since there may very well be
: enough room in the cylinder to suck up the
: whole valve. owwweeey....chad


What kinds of problems are there with shims?
I showed the head to both machine shops and asked about the spring seats with the shims. Only the exhaust valves have shims. The one who did the flow testing said it should be ok. I told the shop that did the work on the head that if it drops a valve I'll be back. I don't like the shims being stacked up that high, I may try to get some of those 0.050" under height locks and use those and take out one of the two 0.060" shims from under each spring that has them. I'll probably need custom pushrods anyway. I don't think the rocker adjusting screw will go far enough to adjust out these longer valves. Then there's the rocker tip to valve tip geometry issue, but not much can be done about that without rocker shaft shims.


Top
   
PostPosted: Sat Sep 22, 2001 10:44 am 
Quote:
: What kinds of problems are there with shims?
: I showed the head to both machine shops and
: asked about the spring seats with the shims.
: Only the exhaust valves have shims. The one
: who did the flow testing said it should be
: ok. I told the shop that did the work on the
: head that if it drops a valve I'll be back.
: I don't like the shims being stacked up that
: high, I may try to get some of those
: 0.050" under height locks and use those
: and take out one of the two 0.060"
: shims from under each spring that has them.
: I'll probably need custom pushrods anyway. I
: don't think the rocker adjusting screw will
: go far enough to adjust out these longer
: valves. Then there's the rocker tip to valve
: tip geometry issue, but not much can be done
: about that without rocker shaft shims.


You may want to get six "taller" valve springs and swap those on to get rid of the shims. Stock SL6 springs are a 1.7 installed height, stock Big Block Mopar springs install at 1.8 and are pretty common.
DD


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 22, 2001 11:10 am 
Quote:
: What kinds of problems are there with shims?
: I showed the head to both machine shops and
: asked about the spring seats with the shims.
: Only the exhaust valves have shims. The one
: who did the flow testing said it should be
: ok. I told the shop that did the work on the
: head that if it drops a valve I'll be back.
: I don't like the shims being stacked up that
: high, I may try to get some of those
: 0.050" under height locks and use those
: and take out one of the two 0.060"
: shims from under each spring that has them.
: I'll probably need custom pushrods anyway. I
: don't think the rocker adjusting screw will
: go far enough to adjust out these longer
: valves. Then there's the rocker tip to valve
: tip geometry issue, but not much can be done
: about that without rocker shaft shims.


Tim,

I've never used shims, or stock sl6 or SB Chrylser springs in my big-valve heads. I always have the spring seats cut and use the retainers and springs and seals that are used with those valves (ic. SB Shiv, etc..)

If your head is not milled too much, say less than 0.060", then you can probably get by with stock pushrods. Just the valve length alone will not make it necessary for shorter pushrods, there is plenty of adjustment room.

But, your probably fine on the valvetrain too, just bolt 'er on and let 'er rip.

Lou


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 22, 2001 12:30 pm 
Quote:
: Tim,
:
: I've never used shims, or stock sl6 or SB
: Chrylser springs in my big-valve heads. I
: always have the spring seats cut and use the
: retainers and springs and seals that are
: used with those valves (ic. SB Shiv, etc..)
:
: If your head is not milled too much, say less
: than 0.060", then you can probably get
: by with stock pushrods. Just the valve
: length alone will not make it necessary for
: shorter pushrods, there is plenty of
: adjustment room.
:
: But, your probably fine on the valvetrain too,
: just bolt 'er on and let 'er rip.
:
: Lou


My head has not been milled any more than a light clean-up pass, but the block is at 10.62", or 0.060" below blueprint specs. So that's the same has cutting the head 0.060" as far as pushrods are concerned. I think i'll try that BB spring idea that Doug Dutra mentioned. I'll check the installed height of each spring and put the BB springs in myself.


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 25, 2001 12:32 pm 
Quote:
: Yes, the SL6 responds well to any headwork you
: give it. I feel that you will get noticable
: power gains with your combo if you just port
: and mill the head, keeping the stock size
: valves.
:
: Bigger valves will help, the AMC ones will do.
: Another valve I use a lot are the Big Block
: Mopar exhaust valves 1.74 and the 1.6 which
: has to be "turned-down" on a
: lathe. These valves are also .1 long but
: some of that can be "taken-up"
: when the new seat is ground-onto the
: chamber, keep it up high as poss.
:
: The key to this decision is the condition of
: your head's valve guides.
:
: If you guides are worn-out, spend the money to
: sleeve them down to the F@&d 300 stem size
: and use those. The 3.8 Buick and S.B. Chebby
: can also be used. There is more selection
: and better flow at the smaller stem size so
: do some "shopping".
: DD

Who remembers the febuary issue 2000 Hotrod magazine seance then we have dicided that the chamber shape of the 68 and later head is prefera ble .Well my pre-68 milled(.o60) ported,gasket mached head is up for grabs,boiled and magnifluxed now after ten years of fun its looking for a new owner.Okay on to better things like my 78 head I've been massageing as many weeks as I've been waiting for my custom valves to be shipped from Egge .stock locks retianers,3/8 stems, correct lenghth 1.50&1.75,stainless steel, does this all sound good. Ok bad news $30.00 apop plus a still yet to be determined shipping fee. but doing the math saveing guide resizing new retainers and lock plus dealing with that .10 too long deal I'll be happy (as soon as they get here. bruce portland or

magicalbus@hotmail.com


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