...thanks to Pat Blais (aka Transmission Patty) and Rick Pare' of Washington state. I give these guys the highest of recommendations! The teamed up to provide me with a custom-built 3,500 rpm stall t.c. in 10" size, for my old 18 spline transmixer. Boy, this has helped a bunch, though I still have to go back to my engine builder, Paul Vanderley, for fine tuning and extra driveability. I plan on doing that Soon. The tranny pump is only putting out a max of 120 lbs, so I suspect I need to go thru the tranny, too. My local trans. man says the pump is holding it back. What do you guys think?
The car is very fast already, but it ain't adjusted out yet, so it'll get faster. It's running much too rich with the stock primary jets (Edlebrock 500 cfm 4 bl), so I'm sure it'll go much faster after tuning. It'll flat outrun a bunch of V8's right now. I love the sound, which is like none other. Wow! After only 42 years of waiting, I already have a fast slant 6. Time cures all ills? Slighted Slantedly yours. Flyntgr

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Restored '62 Signet, 229 4bl, Offy intake, auto, Dual Dutra exhausts, shaved head and block, high stall converter, 1.6 roller rockers, etc.

How are you getting that sound that you love? What is your exhaust setup? Pipes, Mufflers, Headers, X-pipe, etc..?
Thanks,
Cory

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-'72 Valiant Sedan, Stock (For Now)

Dual Dutra Duals, 2 1/4" dual exhausts with two turbo mufflers and stainless tips (2), with a crossover pipe. Not enough room for an X pipe, which is what I wanted.
Anyone know about the 120 lb max linepressure in the trans. pump? Is this just cause to rebuild the entire transmission, even though it shifts fine (although it won't kick down for passing gear due to the low line pressure)? Hmmm? Anyone?

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Restored '62 Signet, 229 4bl, Offy intake, auto, Dual Dutra exhausts, shaved head and block, high stall converter, 1.6 roller rockers, etc.

I'm not a trans expert, but 120 psi, seemed too high to me. Checked the 1969 dodge service manual.
" with control in "D", (wheels off ground), speed up engine slowly, untill trans shifts into direct. Reduce engine speed to 1,000 rpm. line pressure, at this time (1,000rpm) must be 54-60 psi, and front servo release pressure must not be more then 3 psi below line pressure. Disconnect throttle linkage from trans throttle lever, and gradually move throttle lever to full throttle position. Line pressure must rise to a maximum of 90-96 psi just befor or at kickdown into low gear.

Rear servo apply pressure:
With trans control in reverse and engine speed at 1600 rpm, reverse servo apply pressure should be 230-300 psi

There is a lot more info in the manual (trouble shooting and adjustments). I would sugest getting the FSM, or a "GOOD" trans repair manual.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

I agree w/Charlie - that line pressure doesn't sound too low at all. You know you can raise/lower the overall line pressure with the adjustment screw on the valve body? About 2 turns off from stock (out? towards the high pressure side - look in FSM) is about what most hipo trans guys use.

FYI, you will not get your trans to downshift easily with throttle when you have a high stall converter. Use the shifter to downshift manually or you will just spin the converter and overheat things. There is probably nothing wrong if you have reasonbly firm shifts (converter makes these feel slippy compared to stock conv).

Congrats on the buildup. How fast is fast? Been on a track or timed it yet?

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

The lack of kickdown for passing gear first appeared with the installation of a 2400 stall converter which was about the same as stock. The car does downshift when I stop the car in "D". The line pressure I am referring to is the correct line pressure at high engine rpm's. I know the line pressure can be turned up, but even when adjusted to factory specs, it only had 120 lbs., which this trans. man said should be 200 or possibly more, to be "normal" for this trans. I have the factory shop manual and have looked at it, but I don't have the knowledge or the gauges to check anything. That's why I'm asking this forum to advise me on the proper line pressure need when everything is set correctly. I don't know if the guy is correct or not.
As to quarter mile, the car is not tuned, but is running very rich. I plan to take it to the engine builder for proper tuning. The car is loading up too much to take it to the track yet, but it will fly at rpm's above 2,500. I suspect a problem with the transmission pressure, so I'm trying here to find out about that, as well. I know the car will do upper 80's in the quarter, so the e.t. should be good when the bugs are worked out. I expect to run above 90, with e.t.'s in the 15's or 16's. Thanks.

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Restored '62 Signet, 229 4bl, Offy intake, auto, Dual Dutra exhausts, shaved head and block, high stall converter, 1.6 roller rockers, etc.

By the way, the way the trans. mechanic explained it, the MAX line pressure under full throttle (redline now about 6,500) only reached about 120 lbs. The FSB puts line pressure at almost half that at only 800 rpm, so I wonder what the MAX line pressure should be at MAX engine rpm. He says my front pump is too weak to give me good performance, though the tranny might last another 10 years, though not operating at full capacity. Is the B.S. or true? Thanks guys.

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Restored '62 Signet, 229 4bl, Offy intake, auto, Dual Dutra exhausts, shaved head and block, high stall converter, 1.6 roller rockers, etc.

Personally, I think that is BS. all the pump does is supply oil pressure for servo/clutch engagement, and lubrication. Lube pressure is very low. I would hve to check the book again, but less then 25 psi. As long as there is enough pressure for the clutches and bands to engage properly and not slip, increasing the pump output will not improve any thing. It will actually hurt performance, by requireing more hp to drive the pump.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

Yes, BS...
A front pump has the ability to make way more pressure then the tranny needs, there is also a rear pump in the 60-65 "cable shift" 904s so oil pressure should not be an issue.

My 63 FSM shows line pressure in the 55 to 90 psi range, except for reverse. (200+)
I would get a guage and do some FSM reading and checking for yourself.
(there are a number of checking "ports" on the outside of the trans)

Do you know if the trans has the correct "two hole" filter in it? (you have two pumps to "feed")

Thanks for your replies, which I duly note. But why doesn't my car have any passing gear? Even with the 2,300 stall converter there was no passing gear. The stall converter in the car now ("3,500" ???) only allows me to brake as high as 1,900 engine rpms when using the brake to stall-up on takeoff. The mechanics had two guages in position as indicated in the manual, and told me the line pressures in the tranny were adjusted per the manual. So I have no idea why there is no kickdown UNLESS the use of a higher stall converter, per se, eliminates the passing gear. I can live with that if it is normal and predictable; if not, what can I do? Thanks again.

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Restored '62 Signet, 229 4bl, Offy intake, auto, Dual Dutra exhausts, shaved head and block, high stall converter, 1.6 roller rockers, etc.

The filter is an oem/nos in line filter I got from Pat Blais, and it appears identical to the one that had been on the car (1962 Signet 225) when I got it from John Gaffoglio of Metalcrafters two years ago.

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Restored '62 Signet, 229 4bl, Offy intake, auto, Dual Dutra exhausts, shaved head and block, high stall converter, 1.6 roller rockers, etc.

Low pressure and no kickdown lead me to ask what you are using for a kickdown lever/linkage.

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

lokar linkage for kickdown.

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Restored '62 Signet, 229 4bl, Offy intake, auto, Dual Dutra exhausts, shaved head and block, high stall converter, 1.6 roller rockers, etc.

Last time I saw Lokar instruction the sucked pond scum! Try reading the instructions for the bouchillon kickdown cable. The pictures and explanation are excellent, and should help with checking your lokar installation and adjustment. The link: http://www.bouchillonperformance.com/BP ... onsNEW.asp

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'64 Dart GT convertible, 64 Dart 170 2-door post sedan in faded blue and rust (the Az Dart) & a sixty THREE Dart 170 2-door post sedan in faded blue and rust. (future project)
Early Dart Disorder (EDD) is real, and I've got it!

Usually a sign of an incorrectly adjusted kickdown linkage. This can also result in abnormally low pressure readings since the positioin of that linkage also adjusts pressures.

High pressure, in and of itself, is not good. The higher you run the pressure, the more power the pump steals from the drivetrain, and the more heat you generate inside the tranny (compounded by a high-stall convertor which generates TONS of heat also). You need enough pressure to keep the clutches from slipping under the worst-case torque they have to handle, plus a little safety margin. Any more just wastes power.

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